‘85 2F engine, Lost oil Pressure.... Troubleshooting Suggestions? (1 Viewer)

[Rocky_LC]

I just drove my 74FJ 40, with (a swapped 2F) up to my mountain cabin. the motor has been in for at least 5 years and has run great.

While idling at the end of the trip, I noticed ticking sounds. I looked at the gauge, and it was at about 1/3 of its normal position. It always sat at the center of the gauge. Restarted, and oil pressure was 0. Shut it down quickly.

Checked oil level, and I was a quart low, but not enough to lose pressure due to no oil in the pan.

Engine starts and runs, so the distributor is turning.

Oil in pan (and none on ground) so it’s not the head plug.

Oil in pan, and ticking sounds, so it’s not a bad sender.


Any speculation as to what can cause this?

I think I am looking at a tow for sure....

Dammit!

 

[Pighead]

Is the distributor fully seated in the block (and oil pump)?

 

[Rocky_LC]

I will check that immediately... Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[RockDoc]

What oil filter are you using? There are threads in the 80 series section detailing how Wix/NAPA filters (the 1515 specifically? ) have killed several 1FZ engines in the last year or two. IIRC, the anti-drainback valve fails closed and starves the flow.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Another good suggestion that is easy to check on and change.

I might have one of those (deadly) PH-8As, but it’s easy to throw another filter on it,,,,,

Thanks

Rocky

 

[Coastline]

I had a similar problem with my 77 2F with about 15,000 miles on a rebuild, every thing new and oem as could possibly be. 50 miles from pavement. Pop the valve cover off and see if oil is getting to the top. My problem was a defective sending unit.

 

[SteveH]

Buy an inexpensive (or expensive) mechanical oil pressure gauge and install it, and watch it for a bit. IF it has plastic oil hose (as most cheap gauges do), be super careful about how you route the hose and don't use plastic hose as a long term solution - buy a copper oil line kit and do it correctly.

 

[65swb45]

Just pull the sender and crank the motor over. If it doesn’t make a big mess, it means you already have a bigger one.

 

[Rocky_LC]

Thanks...

I am running a Fram “ToughGuard” - TG-8A, but it’s probably just as crappy as all the other Fram PH-8As, but it has a gray colored paint job instead of orange.

I checked in the distributor is bolted down solidly to the lock with a single bolt, so I don’t think it’s backed off or moved.

I started it (briefly) - tapping and no oil pressure on the gauge.

I guess I’ll have it towed down the mountain, and work it in my garage. It’s not a sender issue. Maybe the pickup fell off, or somehow the oil pump is not spinning.



Dammit! I paid $600 for that used motor 8 years ago!! I got ripped off!!

(J/K)

I think I’ll pull the pan before I try Mark’s technique, though.

Thanks, everyone for the help. I’ll let you know what I find.

Rocky

 

[3_puppies]

I think I’ll pull the pan before I try Mark’s technique, though.

that is backwards, try pulling the sensor and cranking before pulling the pan

another thing to try after the above, is to remove the distributor and attach a long blade screwdriver to a drill and spin the oil pump to see if the oil pump actually pumps oil

but if the engine is making bad noises, it all needs to come apart anyway

 

[Rocky_LC]

Maybe. I know there is something wrong, and I’m not getting oil pressure when the engine is running.

Pulling the distributor will be easier than dropping the pan, and might tell me something about the drive of the oil pump.

Your long screwdriver trick is a good idea, to see if the oil pump can generate pressure - it might help figure out if there is blockage somewhere.

Good suggestions - I appreciate all the help.

Rocky

 

[FJ60Seth]

If your going to change the filter, crank it before you put the new one on. Do this in someone else’s driveway.

 

[Travis 76]

Pull the distributor. My oil pump seized on me years ago. It just broke off the drive tab of the distributor and kept running for a short while.

 

[Rocky_LC]

I’m hoping that’s not the case, but it seems like it could be (siezed oil pump)

Took me a little bit to figure out Seth’s post.... I guess the point is to look for a gusher of oil...

I want to see if I can find a plumbing diagram to see if, after the oil pump comes the filter, or the oil pressure sender....

Thanks again

Rocky

 

[3_puppies]

the oil pressure sender is attached to the filter housing

there is a pressure regulator also on the filter housing

 

[Rocky_LC]

So interesting results (preliminary) - everything looks nominal.

Followed the recommended guidance... Pulled the sender - oil drained out.

Pulled the plugs and cranked - oil squirted out of the sender hole.... It's hard to know how much to expect, but.....

Pulled the filter - it was full of oil (anti-drainback flap seems to work). Cut filter open - can't say hog good the cardboard (filter element) on the inside is, but the "Fram Toughguard" appears to be fairly robust inside - the housing, base and parts seem to be pretty heavy duty. No metal particulates in the filter media.

HMMMMMM.


I am wondering if I should just put a new filter on, and try and start it?

While I'm about ready to pull the distributor (engine at TDC, rotor marked, plugs out, all wires / vacuum hoses disconnected) - I'm not seeing anything that looks like the oil pump isn't pumping.

Anyone have any other ideas where a restriction could be?



Thanks -

Rocky


Maybe it is a bad sender, but..... I heard "ticking" sounds.....

 

[Rocky_LC]

Well, it's not the filter, or the sender.... Started it up, the gauge is reading (a little), but not building any pressure. Maybe it's in the pump or in that filter / oil cooler structure - the pressure regulator that 3 puppies mentioned.

Dammit!

 

[Casey E]

This sounds like the gauge to me. Mine quit working last year and barely registers on the gauge when driving 65. Like it sits on the very bottom line and the only reason I know it works is because when I turn it off it completely falls out of sight. hope it’s just your gauge

 

[hobbes]

This sounds like the gauge to me. Mine quit working last year and barely registers on the gauge when driving 65. Like it sits on the very bottom line and the only reason I know it works is because when I turn it off it completely falls out of sight. hope it’s just your gauge

Have you tried replacing your sender? $50-$60 from Toyota. It often recovers “lost” oil pressure. The OP seems to have secondary oil pressure indications.

 

[Rocky_LC]

You guys were right!

Installed a manual gauge - got 25+ PSI at idle, and 55+ PSI when driving.

So I now have a mechanical gauge, and all my air-cleaner, vacuum lines, and valve covers are cleaned, and my valves are adjusted. Lots of minor clean-up done. Thanks for the help.

A minor challenge was finding the 1/8" BSPT to 1/8" NPT adapter to support the install of the compression fitting for the copper tubing to the gauge.

Rocky