84 FJ60 No Fuel/No Start- Fuel gets to carb, ICS Q's (3 Viewers)

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I just got offered a free 84 FJ60. There is fuel getting to the carb, but it isn't getting to the engine. It runs great when spraying carb cleaner in it, but it is not apparently getting any fuel on it's own. Fuel pressure to carb is good.

I rebuilt the carb this weekend. Also started looking up desmog procedures. I am new to the FJs.

During the installation of the idle control solenoid on the back of the carb, one of the wires was severed right at the solenoid. It would be a hard repair. I am not familiar with these 80s carbs. What exactly does this solenoid do and what happens if it is unplugged?

Other than checking for severe vacuum leaks, if the carb rebuild doesn't fix my problem, what else should I look for? Do these have EGR valves that could get stuck open? There is so many vacuum hoses I can barely see what is going on.

Thanks!
 
Sounds like it's completely gone. I'll come pick it up and take it off your hands. ;^)

Sent from my rotary phone
 
The solenoid lets fuel through the system when it's got power. When it's off, it closes, and shuts off the fuel flow. It's there so it doesn't backfire when engine-braking/coasting/otherwise moving with your foot off the gas.

If you start it with carb cleaner sprayed inside, can you keep it running by opening up the throttle a bit? But it can't hold a regular idle on its own?

If so, then it's definitely, definitely the solenoid not getting its +12v that's causing your problem. You need to fix or replace it.
 
The solenoid lets fuel through the system when it's got power. When it's off, it closes, and shuts off the fuel flow. It's there so it doesn't backfire when engine-braking/coasting/otherwise moving with your foot off the gas.

If you start it with carb cleaner sprayed inside, can you keep it running by opening up the throttle a bit? But it can't hold a regular idle on its own?

If so, then it's definitely, definitely the solenoid not getting its +12v that's causing your problem. You need to fix or replace it.

It does not shut fuel off when you're coasting/engine breaking... it is there to stop the engine running on when you turn the ignition off by shutting the fuel off.... it does need power when you want the engine to start or run... so having a broken wire will stop the engine from starting properly, though you will most likely be able to get it to run with a fair bit of choke... though it will run badly... buy a new/second hand carb solenoid (check it works before you pay if it's a second hand one) and replace the one in your ride.... done 1 banana job
 
The ICS as its name suggests, helps control IDLE by keeping the idle fuel circuit open when ICS is energized. When you turn off the key, power to the ICS is cut and fuel in the Idle Circuit is cut to stop potential dieseling or run on of the engine... ICS also operates under certain deceleration parameters to help lean out the mix.

If your ICS is not working, your truck won't idle. Aftermarket are available for $25 or so. Make sure the O ring on the end of the NEW ICS is there. If not, use the one off the old ICS.

If you rebuilt the carb and it's not getting fuel into the float bowl (is there gas in the sight glass - half-way?), check the float level, needle, seat...

BTW - you paid too much for your truck :D

AND !!! In my sig line are downloads for the EMISSIONS and 2F MANUALS - You're going to need them and will help with troubleshooting.

Good luck.
 
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Thanks everyone! I may "borrow" the ICS of of my buddies FJ60. He's in the middle east right now and won't be needing it for a while. I also plan on repairing my own as well. Though, I am pretty certain the wire was intact when I removed the carb.

I love finding good forums. I got no replies at Toyota Nation nor Yotatech... Good replies here!

Thanks again!
 
In other news, I started looking at desmog stuff. I need to find a good(well, the best, I've found a few "good") article on what to take off. The FJ is in great shape overall. Though I noticed that the rubber hose going to the air injection system is full of holes in one spot. I figured I'd just cap off the injector ports and take as much of that off as possible. But that will be after I get the thing driving home...
 
Where are u located ?
 
Central Washington. No emissions testing for that matter. Though I personally don't desire to make this a pollution machine, I am not going to spend money fixing stuff that it can do without.

No Valley Girls Here... ;)
 
Where can I buy an ICS at a decent price? I saw on one of the threads a guy said $25. I have only found one online for $160 and none locally...
 
Haha, ok, now looking back ,it was this thread where "a guy" (spike)
said $25... Still no luck finding it though. I found a 2 wire LCS on rock auto, but it was for a 75-80 2f engine and there is no picture. Though I don't want to risk buying and waiting for an unseen product, it's probably the same.


Could I temporarily just put a Teflon wrapped bolt in for the time being that is short and will let the fuel flow? I'd like to try to start it again.

Oh, and I guess I didn't mention above that while I was trying to solder my wire back on, I decided to test the solenoid. I grounded the black and gave 12v to the white and there as no click or anything. It may have been my problem all along...

Edit- looks like spike already got back to me as I wrote this
 
Ok, like I said above, Spike or anyone else, do you think putting a short bolt into the ICS hole would work as a temporary fix to get this thing moving? As far as I can tell from examining the part, fuel flows in from the end, when the solenoid is activated a rod retracts and allows it to pass through the sides. But that all takes place 1/4"+ past the threads on the ICS. So if I found a small bolt that would fit in there, the fuel would flow freely. Yeah, I may have dieseling when I shut it off, but at least it will run...
 
Have no idea about the bolt. I've read of some people cutting the end off the solenoid and it ran like that but I wouldn't do it 'cuz I'm anal. You should be able to get a cheapie ICS from Autozone or similar. One or two wire should work, since you're desmogging. Single wire version is + wire , ICS body grounds to carb.
 

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