84 fj60 manifold woes (1 Viewer)

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That's good advice. I was hoping to get a bit more out of the one I have before getting a rebuilt one but it is a likely suspect for my problems. It's more the concern of me screwing something up when I replace it. I've read a bit about noting orientation when taking off, using tdc if you forget and the scary oil pump part. I will try one more round of component testing and trade out the ignitor before taking the distributor off.
 
That's good advice. I was hoping to get a bit more out of the one I have before getting a rebuilt one but it is a likely suspect for my problems. It's more the concern of me screwing something up when I replace it. I've read a bit about noting orientation when taking off, using tdc if you forget and the scary oil pump part. I will try one more round of component testing and trade out the ignitor before taking the distributor off.
It’s really not that bad. As long as you verify that you’re TDC and you follow the FSM it’ll go fine. The images in the FSM are a little off from what you’ll experience in person, but once you start doing it, you’ll see what needs to happen. The shaft of the dizzy spins as it comes off the cam gear. You’ll see that when you remove it. When you reinstall it, it goes back the way it came. If you’re having trouble getting the gears to line up, it’s probably the slot in the pump. Just take a long flathead screwdriver and turn the pump till you get the gears and shaft to line up. Then as you push the dizzy down into it’s seat you’ll feel and see the shaft slipping into the gear and boom. You’re done. Just tighten it down and see if you get spark. Worst case is that you’re a tooth off on the gear and you’ll have trouble getting the timing right. If that’s the case do it again until you get it right. It sounds complicated and difficult but it’s really not. It does help to put a mark or scratch on the dizzy and iron block where it seats so that you can get it into the ballpark as far as timing goes. But you can make all those final adjustments once you get spark and turn things over. We’re here to help!
 
Thanks! Marking the block/ dizzy is a great idea i hadn't come across or thought about. I'll keep you updated of my progress
 
Like cps432 said mark the orientation of the dizzy pointer onto the block when your on TDC, I used a little straight edge to do mine centered across the pointer then made the mark. A lot of people over think changing out the distributor and make it seem harder then it is.
I was sure when I got mine back from JimC I was going to mess it up, but I did exactly what cps432 suggested and it slid right in and has been running like a champ ever since.
Keep us posted :)
 
Thanks! I will get a rebuilt distributor. Whether it is the only source of my problems or not doesn't matter because it certainly has a lot of corrosion and needs to be addressed. Something has come up family-wise so I won't be able address it this weekend, unfortunately.
 
Thanks! I will get a rebuilt distributor. Whether it is the only source of my problems or not doesn't matter because it certainly has a lot of corrosion and needs to be addressed. Something has come up family-wise so I won't be able address it this weekend, unfortunately.
I've got you covered :), check your PMs.
 
I got the rebuilt distributor from 4cruisers and swapped out the springs using the MSD kit. I decided to leave the nylon bushing because I didn't want to dig deeper and possibly screw something up. Seems like the red bushing that comes with the MSD kit would fit but elsewhere it was stated that they used an aluminum bushing from a hardware store.
 
Having a hell of a time. Got distributor on and fired right up but when timing to bb I ran out of adjustment room. Pulled distributor, moved one tooth, restarted and when I grabbed the dizzy it was jumping like hell because it was not fully seated. Pulled, re-set it into pump slot and it ran but not well and BB no where to be found. Turned engine to line up BB with indicator to find I was 180° off. Set distributor back in with dizzy rotor pointed to #1 and now it sounds like absolute hell with scary clunks and perhaps detonation sounds. Also, now oil covers the oil pump slot so I have to wick it away with a paper towel to see it's orientation. Can the oil pump slot be 180° off and cause such problems?
 
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I was working under the assumption that when the indicator is pointed towards the line and the distributor rotor is pointed towards #1 on the distributor cap, the engine is at tdc. I have a feeling that I might at tdc for the exhaust stroke and not the compression stroke
 
The oil pump slot can be at either 180 or 360, it doesn't matter. Sounds like you're at TDC on the exhaust stroke. I check to see if it's the compression stroke by removing the #1 spark plug and wadding up a bit of paper towel and sticking it at the spark plug opening, it'll pop out as the piston is approaching TDC on the compression stroke.
 
Thanks, that advice works for me. I'm working on my own and have to turn engine by lifting rear tire, putting it in 4th and slowly rotating tire. It's maddening because I have to run back and forth, looking for the tdc line. I feel pretty s***ty with the screw ups (also blew the oil pressure gauge from stupid connection). I think it will all work out and I hopefully didn't do any damage. Oil pump slot and distributor spade didn't seem to be damaged.
 
Took some doing but got distributor set right and timing dialed in. It purrs and I took it around the block a few times. I've changed so many things in the last 10 months I was really afraid something wouldn't work right away but seems pretty good. There's a pretty loud tick. I did adjust the valves during this downtime. I might seek out a local cruiser head to get a second opinion on what's normal. The manifold vacuum is rock solid steady at idle which is great to see. Thanks to everyone for all your help! Especially 4Cruisers who helped me get the last piece of the puzzle in place
 
Almost! Just a few loose ends but yeah pretty much!
 
Sorry for the$h1t post but can someone ready this spark plug? Half the insulator has a reddish tongue (more than brown). Base seems to say rich but insulator/tang looks good (to my untrained eye)

IMG_20220329_154248339_HDR.jpg
 
That’s fine.
When it consistently looks like an oily charcoal briquette, that’s when it’s time to fret an engine rebuild.
 

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