84 60 acting up just after start up... (1 Viewer)

[Skilter]

To start my 60 it must be choked 90% of the time even if it is hot. It didn't used to be this way. I will choke it and it is hard starting, but it always starts. Then I drive it for about 3-5 minutes and most of the time if I put in the clutch it will die immediately. It will stay running at high revs. However, after a few minutes go by, it will "hic-up" and chug once or twice, the seatbelt light comes on, it beeps like the keys are in the ignition with the door open... and then it runs like a champ from that point on. What gives?

I thought it might be fuel related. I changed the fuel filter. It needed it and it starts a little easier now. Any ideas? Perhaps it needs a carb rebuild? It has 160,000 miles on it. Also, I don't know about the electtrical system, but the voltage really drags in my LC until this hiccup happens... could this be voltage related? Any guesses?

Thanks in advance...

 

[Mike S]

It sounds like a combination of electrical problems. I would start with checking that the carb has fuel in running conditions. Then all the systems for clean tight grounds. Would check the carb fan operation, and the operation of the fuel cut-off solenoid. Some. or all, of this may be traceable to the intermittant low voltage indications.

My bet is that you have an intermittant ground loop problem. Get an FSM and a multimeter.

Now someone can chime in with additional suggestions.

 

[Tinker]

Alternator (brushes?), voltage regulator, starter solenoid, intermittent ground.

 

[lovetoski]

I find that stuff like this is really hard to diagnose. The key for me is to eliminate things. As Holmes said..."whatever's left..."

The question is what to eliminate? If you haven't done a full tune-up in a long time, then it's time to do it, and it will be money well spent in any case. Plugs, rotor, cap, wires, etc. Make sure timing, valves and carb are adjusted.

Assuming this doesn't fix the problem, take it to a national chain auto parts store, and ask to have the alt and battery checked. They do this for free. Free is always good.

Check the fuel cut solenoid.

It could be your fuel pump starting to fail. I don't know how to really tell if one is going or not. If it's failed already, it's easy to tell - just yank the outlet hose and crank the engine - no gas will squirt out. But if it's not pumping well, maybe it only dribbles? Beats me - but it could be a source of your problem. Hate to change it if it's not the problem, thought they are only ~$60 at Napa.

That's all I can think of right now...

If I was a betting man, based on what you've said, I lean towards the tune-up...

 

[jwest]

Sounds exclusively electrical to me in that once it "hiccups" as you describe it, some of your dash lights wake up and the idle smooths out. The fuel cut solenoid is electrically controlled, therefore, if there's no power to the solenoid, it won't idle.

Have the battey and alt checked as lovetoski mentioned, and see what you come up with. Then check your fuses and fuse box, fusible links, wiring, and your grounds both on the block and frame.

.

 

[hammer1]

idle solenoid.
i traced my wire to it back to the harness, and found that the ( harness) had rubbed across the wheel well to the point that it wore the idles wire right through, so it would actually only make contact when it rubbed the bare wires to the metal body of the wheel well.
to me about two years to figure it out
hammer

 

[Skilter]

thanks for the replies... maybe this will narrow it down. Tune up was done along with valve adjustment a year ago. Alternator is a year old (new, not a re-manuf unit) along with optima battery.

Some of the stuff here caught my eye and has kinda confirmed my suspicions that it was related. Fuel cut solenoid and idle solenoid are the same thing? (I am not technical on this stuff.) I agree there could be a ground issue too.

Also, I would bet that my Carb needs a rebuild after 160,000 miles. Would you all agree? Would that help solve the problem?

 

[sl33py]

I had a similar issue where some of the wires were nearly ground through...not fun. I had to limp to my house with the choke running it at 2k so it wouldnt die at lights. patched the wire - fine since then.

Also - where can i get a fusible link online and how much$? Thanks guys!

Rob

 

[Mike S]

Fusible link at the Toyota Dealer - OEM part. Maybe 15 to 20 bucks. Or call C Dan and buy it.

M

 

[Mike S]

Fuel cut solenoid and idle solenoid are the same thing? (I am not technical on this stuff.) I agree there could be a ground issue too.

Yep. Same thing. If you stand on the DS of the engine compartment, you will see a wire and connector coming out the side of the carb. This is the fuel cutoff solenoid.

Also, I would bet that my Carb needs a rebuild after 160,000 miles. Would you all agree? Would that help solve the problem?

I do not agree. My cab is over 160K miles and I was was the first owner to pop the adjustment cap off. Fix the other (electrical) stuff first. Then isolate any additional problems. If it ain't broke...

Mike S

 

[Skilter]

The wiring looks ok... Except there were some exposed wire coming out of the same harness and running to a connection on the engine block. What might this be? Is it the engine block ground? I taped it up, but it did not seem to make a difference. It looks like it needs to be changed. The wiring to the fuel cut solenoid (Toyota calls it a throttle body solenoid) looks fine. I don't know what to do next other than dig harder on the wiring issue. That little solenoid is $150 bucks. Should I fork over the $$$ and just replace it? I did the test in the Haynes manual and when I disconnected the link, the engine died so it should still be good right? I keep reading about the ground to this thing... where is it?

I did the vacuum switch test too... it came out fine as well.

Thanks for all your help...

 

[Skilter]

bump for help