Wow. Getting closer and closer to the end! How does it feel? I can tell you it looks amazing!!
83 FJ60 Build up thread (2 Viewers)
- Thread starter Project60
- Start date
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amazing work!!! i would like to know the overall band-aid cost of your sheet metal project
- Thread starter
- #483
It feels good so far. It'd feel better if I was driving it!
I am getting closer by the day, but it is really slow going.
- Thread starter
- #484
amazing work!!! i would like to know the overall band-aid cost of your sheet metal project
I posted this a few months back. I will update this again after the first of the year. That will be the 2 year anniversary of starting the project!
Got the summary to date for time and expenses. Please remember, the tools killed me as it includes welding tanks, air compressors, etc.
Total time to Date:
234 hours and 45 minutes
Total Cost to Date:
$3,401.21 - includes truck, tools, consumables, etc.
- Thread starter
- #485
Body Work
Sorry for the lack of posts lately... been travelling for work.
I got 7hrs on the 60 over the last few weeks. I got the floor all finished up! All the spot welds holes are welded up and ground down flat. Looks ok, definitely not perfectly flat... but at least rust free.
I also did a little clean up work on the bottom. The wire wheel works great for removal of the undercoating, but where grease/oil has been sitting, it gets really soft and gooey. At these spots (rear of t-case and transmission tunnel), I used a putty knife to scrape the oily crap off before I use the wire wheel.
Rear floor done:
Transmission tunnel scraped of oil/grease:
Box full of oil:
Sorry for the lack of posts lately... been travelling for work.
I got 7hrs on the 60 over the last few weeks. I got the floor all finished up! All the spot welds holes are welded up and ground down flat. Looks ok, definitely not perfectly flat... but at least rust free.
I also did a little clean up work on the bottom. The wire wheel works great for removal of the undercoating, but where grease/oil has been sitting, it gets really soft and gooey. At these spots (rear of t-case and transmission tunnel), I used a putty knife to scrape the oily crap off before I use the wire wheel.
Rear floor done:
Transmission tunnel scraped of oil/grease:
Box full of oil
:
project 60 have you ever tried aircraft stripper (chemicel gel variety) to remove caked on goo. I've stripped the bottom of several mid year vetts (63-67) with the stuff and there is at least 15 more years of build up on them. Apply with a el cheapo paint brush, let stand for a couple min. and voila. It takes a couple of apps in rough areas but overall its very effective.
- Thread starter
- #487
I've heard rinsing is required afterward? Anyone know of requirements for it's use?
My only goal with the wirewheel is to remove the undercoating. The sandblasters all say it requires a lot of blasting to remove.
All ive ever done (keep in mind to wear a respirator and chem resistant gloves at all times during this process) is to go back over it with paint thinner.
So after you've wiped the stripper off (something you also should always do after visiting a gentlemans club--sorry I had to take that opportunity before someone else did) with a rag, get a clean rag (or scotch bright with thinner soaked rag behind it) pour some thinner on it and wipe the area down. This seems to help loosen up what wasnt removed be the stripper. Long sleeves and hat should be worn because if this junk sits on bare skin for a while it burns like battery acid. This is what works for me on fiberglass cars so im sure it wont be too harsh for 20 ga cruiser steel. hope this helped and didnt confuse
So after you've wiped the stripper off (something you also should always do after visiting a gentlemans club--sorry I had to take that opportunity before someone else did) with a rag, get a clean rag (or scotch bright with thinner soaked rag behind it) pour some thinner on it and wipe the area down. This seems to help loosen up what wasnt removed be the stripper. Long sleeves and hat should be worn because if this junk sits on bare skin for a while it burns like battery acid. This is what works for me on fiberglass cars so im sure it wont be too harsh for 20 ga cruiser steel. hope this helped and didnt confuse
- Thread starter
- #489
Body Work
I got 5.5 hours over the last week. I got the undercoating wire wheeled off the bottom of the truck and the glued on foam from the headliner insulation wire wheeled off... those tasks are right up there with sandblasting the frame!
I also got the seat covers removed from the seats... way out of sequence, but I have someone willing to sew new ones up for free! I will be cleaning up the seat frames over the new few weeks, so it will be a nice break from body work.
Undercoating wire wheeled off:
Glue from headliner insulation wire wheeled off:
I got 5.5 hours over the last week. I got the undercoating wire wheeled off the bottom of the truck and the glued on foam from the headliner insulation wire wheeled off... those tasks are right up there with sandblasting the frame!
I also got the seat covers removed from the seats... way out of sequence, but I have someone willing to sew new ones up for free! I will be cleaning up the seat frames over the new few weeks, so it will be a nice break from body work.
Undercoating wire wheeled off:
Glue from headliner insulation wire wheeled off:
I've been waiting to ask this one..
What plan do you have, since it's going to be blasted, to take care of sealing up all the surfaces, including the ones you won't see, like the rails, inner fenders, etc that are basically not accessible with a sprayer.
Just want to know, as maybe your plan includes a dip tank of phosphorous/zinc and subsequent tank bath for the paint.
Why do all that to leave the opportunity for rust to again breed? Right??
What plan do you have, since it's going to be blasted, to take care of sealing up all the surfaces, including the ones you won't see, like the rails, inner fenders, etc that are basically not accessible with a sprayer.
Just want to know, as maybe your plan includes a dip tank of phosphorous/zinc and subsequent tank bath for the paint.
Why do all that to leave the opportunity for rust to again breed? Right??
- Thread starter
- #491
I have been debating how to handle this. There are a few ways to handle this based on my reading.
- The most effective way is to dip it. It gets into all the nooks and crannies. It is expensive. If it is not rinsed properly, the acid can come back out and attack the new paint. The last problem is how to get paint back into the nooks and crannies, it really has to be dipped in primer. Again, more expense and few places have a primer tank big enough to dip in. (I haven't quoted it, but have read $1k plus transport).
- Sandblast it. This gets rid of all the visible places and leaves a nice etched surface for primer to adhere to. It doesn't get in the nooks and crannies and can warp panels. It can leave sand/media everywhere which can come back out later. It is less expensive, but still expensive. (About $600 plus transport for the body)
- chemical stripping (air craft stripper). Same as dipping, but you do it by hand. Same problems but it is hard to get it into the nooks and crannies and still rinse it back out. Has to be rinsed, which can cause flash surface rusting.
- Sand it off. Can cause warping. It is hard to sand in tight corners. Time consuming.
I am going to go ahead and sandblast a few hard to reach areas and sand down the rest (DA and/or flap disk). It will be tedious, but cheap. My main reason is that all the rust has been cut out and clean metal welded back in. If I don't get down to bare metal everywhere, I will still sleep.
I am not going for a "restoration" here. Just a de-rust and rebuild. I am really trying hard not to fall into the trap of spending more than I originally budgeted for...
AND YES, to finally answer your question. It will leave some potential rust in the sealed areas (rockers, folded metal, etc.). I will end up spraying some Kryoil or other material into these areas. Besides, it's dry in Colorado... If it rusts again in 10 years, I will just wheel it harder!
- Thread starter
- #492
Body Work
I got 45 mins on Friday at work. I used the sandblasting cabinet to blast down the remaining items for the front cowl. Then I came home and hit the areas to be welded w/ weld thru primer.
Parts painted w/ weld thru primer:
I got 45 mins on Friday at work. I used the sandblasting cabinet to blast down the remaining items for the front cowl. Then I came home and hit the areas to be welded w/ weld thru primer.
Parts painted w/ weld thru primer:
- Thread starter
- #493
Seat Repair
I got 2hr and 45min today on the 60. I got the rear bench seat cleaned up and painted. I know you will never see the paint (covered w/ carpet etc.), but it will make handling them easier as they will be painted and clean.
The pad and cushion on both pieces of the rear bench are in good shape, so I am not going to do anything with them.
Rear bench seat back, back side (w/o carpet). Light surface rust:
Rear bench seat back, front side (w/o pad). Light surface rust... I can't really clean this up, but it will never rust through:
Rear bench seat back, back side all cleaned up and prepped for paint (wire wheel, half assed):
Paint applied:
Brackets re-attached:
I got 2hr and 45min today on the 60. I got the rear bench seat cleaned up and painted. I know you will never see the paint (covered w/ carpet etc.), but it will make handling them easier as they will be painted and clean.
The pad and cushion on both pieces of the rear bench are in good shape, so I am not going to do anything with them.
Rear bench seat back, back side (w/o carpet). Light surface rust:
Rear bench seat back, front side (w/o pad). Light surface rust... I can't really clean this up, but it will never rust through:
Rear bench seat back, back side all cleaned up and prepped for paint (wire wheel, half assed):
Paint applied:
Brackets re-attached:
- Thread starter
- #494
Seat Repair
More Pics...
Rear Set bottom, bottom side (w/o rubber mat and border). Light surface rust, not nearly as bad as the top:
Bottom painted:
Folding brackets painted:
Bottom molded seat cushion:
Bottom rubber cover. I patched a small 1/2" tear w/ some duct tape after cleaning it up w/ wax and grease remover:
- yes, the tape is on the inside...
More Pics...
Rear Set bottom, bottom side (w/o rubber mat and border). Light surface rust, not nearly as bad as the top:
Bottom painted:
Folding brackets painted:
Bottom molded seat cushion:
Bottom rubber cover. I patched a small 1/2" tear w/ some duct tape after cleaning it up w/ wax and grease remover:
- yes, the tape is on the inside...
- Thread starter
- #495
Seat Repair
More pics...
I used the el cheapo paint (not quite .99$, but the non-primer required cheapo stuff). It turned out ok. It is like generic rustoleum. Worked just fine for things no one will ever see.
I must admit, the plastic trigger assembly (2$ at wal-mart) was awesome. It sprayed nice and kept my finger from dying. Definitely a recommended tool (warning, not high quality...):
More pics...
I used the el cheapo paint (not quite .99$, but the non-primer required cheapo stuff). It turned out ok. It is like generic rustoleum. Worked just fine for things no one will ever see.
I must admit, the plastic trigger assembly (2$ at wal-mart) was awesome. It sprayed nice and kept my finger from dying. Definitely a recommended tool (warning, not high quality...):
- Thread starter
- #496
Project Status
I updated my hour and dollar totals. This marks the 2 year annivery of starting the project... man this is taking forever.
Time: 338 hours, 10 min (equivalant of 8.5 weeks)
Total Cost to date: $4,484.34
I updated my hour and dollar totals. This marks the 2 year annivery of starting the project... man this is taking forever.
Time: 338 hours, 10 min (equivalant of 8.5 weeks)
Total Cost to date: $4,484.34
- Thread starter
- #497
Seat Repair
I got 4hr and 35min over the last week or so on the 60. All of it was spent repairing, cleaning and painting the seats for re-upholstery.
Rear seat bottom re-assembled:
Passenger side seat dis-assembled:
Passenger side seat wire wheeled up:
Passenger side seat painted:
I got 4hr and 35min over the last week or so on the 60. All of it was spent repairing, cleaning and painting the seats for re-upholstery.
Rear seat bottom re-assembled:
Passenger side seat dis-assembled:
Passenger side seat wire wheeled up:
Passenger side seat painted:
- Thread starter
- #498
Seat Repair
Driver side seat (notice tear in seat cushion):
I used spray adhesive to fix the foam:
The best tool I found to cut the foam was an electric knife:
Driver side seat cushion (bottom):
Bolster splitting from side on driver side:
Driver side seat (notice tear in seat cushion):
I used spray adhesive to fix the foam:
The best tool I found to cut the foam was an electric knife:
Driver side seat cushion (bottom):
Bolster splitting from side on driver side:
- Thread starter
- #499
Seat Repair
I cut out the ruined foam on the driver side with the electric knife:
Then I glued a new piece in using the spray adhesive:
Then I used an old cut up cloth to put over the foam and over the cracks. This was glued down as well:
I cut out the ruined foam on the driver side with the electric knife:
Then I glued a new piece in using the spray adhesive:
Then I used an old cut up cloth to put over the foam and over the cracks. This was glued down as well:
- Thread starter
- #500
Seat Repair
Passenger side seat rails. I wire wheeled the mounting ends and put a fresh coat of cheap paint on:
I sandblasted the rear seat bottom retaining covers:
Rear covers w/ fresh coat of paint:
Passenger side seat rails. I wire wheeled the mounting ends and put a fresh coat of cheap paint on:
I sandblasted the rear seat bottom retaining covers:
Rear covers w/ fresh coat of paint:
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