82 fj60 looses power going up hills (1 Viewer)

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I'm thinking about buying a 82 fj60. however, when you drive up hill it looses power. it doesn't cut out, it still runs but it just creeps along. the owner says 2 different mechanics have looked at it, and can't find anything wrong. any ideas?
thanks
 
What's your frame of reference? Porsche? Citroen 2CV?
Makes a big difference what you're used to driving.
Mine, with 200k+ miles and a blown head gasket pulls 55 - 60 up to Bumblebee (6% grade from 2500', I think, to about 4000')
 
I posted this awhile back but I'll mention it again. Perhaps its relevant. I have an '82 fj60 which runs quite well up hill. It will maintain 60-70mph. Before I reversed the torque rod on the carb. which someone had installed backwards, my truck would barely do 60 on a straightaway much less up hill. Only one carb barrell was in use until a friend pointed out the problem. I can only say what my problem was. My lack of mechanical experience prevents me from venturing more.

bh
 
hj60 said:
What's your frame of reference? Porsche? Citroen 2CV?
Makes a big difference what you're used to driving.
Mine, with 200k+ miles and a blown head gasket pulls 55 - 60 up to Bumblebee (6% grade from 2500', I think, to about 4000')

You need to check your speedometers accuracy. I’m guessing its off by 15-20 MPH :flipoff2: :flipoff2:
 
wing-nut said:
I'm thinking about buying a 82 fj60. however, when you drive up hill it looses power. it doesn't cut out, it still runs but it just creeps along. the owner says 2 different mechanics have looked at it, and can't find anything wrong. any ideas?
thanks

Cruisers aren't fast, they are reliable. That said, if tuned up properly, and if everything is working right, they don't "creep" uphill. Somethings wrong. Problem is that cruisers are rare, and mech's to work on carb equipped trucks are even rarer. If you can find a good cruiser mech, it can be fixed to run pretty strong.

One more thought - just use the "it's got some serious problems" approach and see how cheap you can get it for. Then figure out how to fix it later.

Make sure to check the compression. As long as that's OK, then it can be fixed to run fine.
 
You're funny.

Now, don't get me wrong... I could tell how fast I was going up that hill by watching my gas gauge. Far more accurate than my speedo, I'm sure. :)
Got to Cottonwood on just over 1/4 tank, IIRC.
 
ps40-2 said:
I have an '82 fj60 which runs quite well up hill. It will maintain 60-70mph.


hehehehehe!!! dude, there arent any "hills" in Mississippi! im sure hes talking about "HILLS"! try taking yur efjay60 from 5200' to 8200' @ 70mph...NOT! THOSE are "hills". -other sean
 
You have a point. The inclines are milder here, to be sure. My point of reference remains what I was experiencing before we flipped the torque rod. Secondly, I just finished a road trip from Jackson to Flagstaff, AZ (I'm from AZ). We made multiple climbs heading across New Mexico and into AZ. The truck was carrying four guys and was overloaded with gear and mountain bikes dangling from the rear. In this state it wasn't doing 70 up hills, but I don't ever recall it being a sluggish turd either. My 2f now has 160k and is in good tune and condition. I was rather surprised at how well it did, considering how much I've heard to the contrary. How to explain this? I find myself in agreement with Doug Grahams sentiments. It doesn't appear that 60s are supposed to "creep" uphill.

bh
 
ps40-2 said:
I posted this awhile back but I'll mention it again. Perhaps its relevant. I have an '82 fj60 which runs quite well up hill. It will maintain 60-70mph. Before I reversed the torque rod on the carb. which someone had installed backwards, my truck would barely do 60 on a straightaway much less up hill. Only one carb barrell was in use until a friend pointed out the problem. I can only say what my problem was. My lack of mechanical experience prevents me from venturing more.

bh

Ok, this is very strange that you bring this up. My 60 has been running great -- new top end, recent carb rebuild, new vac lines, etc. Top speed right where it should be, but not a ton of power. Gas mileage about 11-12 all-around. Vac at idle 20mm/hg idle speed 650rpm. Pretty much in good tune. Today I swapped out the secondary diaphragm and the slow cut valve on my carb. The slow cut was leaking and the boot was torn, and the secondary was in only fair shape after the rebuild. I came across a like-new carb on ebay to use as a spare, but since my carb was working well I just decided to swap in the parts instead of swapping the entire carb. First thing I realized is that I DID have the secondary linkage on incorrectly and it wasn't opening up the secondaries at all. After swapping out the parts, I went to start her up and the bad happened. No idle, rough running, coughing sputtering etc. Vac down to 13-15 at over 1000rpm w/ choke on. Turns out the secondary linkage is very touchy and if the retaining nut is not tightened down to just the right amount, it will bind and hold the secondary open creating enough vac leak to make the truck not idle. Anyway, got it all adjusted correctly, took her for a test drive and HOLY CHIT -- I feel like I have about 50 more horses under the hood and I can actually feel the secondaries open. Out on the highway I could actually keep up with traffic and, I know you're not going to believe this.... actually pass other vehicles. Anyway, thought I would second ps40-2's comment as it has some worth if you are experiencing less than usual low power from your 2F. :)
 
Here is the original post I did on this topic. Jim Chenowith responded at that time and mentioned this was a fairly common error.

This will not be news to many, but may help some newcomers.

My '82 fj60 was running sluggishly. I could only reach 50-55 uphill with the pedal to the floor and was at a top speed of 65 on a level road. I knew there was something wrong and had plans to rebuild the carb. A friend with a '84 fj60 had a similiar problem and it turned out to be the torque rod which opens the throttle was installed backwards. We checked mine and sure enough, someone had comitted the same error. We switched it and test drove. Result: a new truck. I now have no trouble hitting 70-75 on an incline with the petal in 1/4 or so. She's powerful and responsive. I was blown away by the difference. If your'e having these symptoms its worth checking this.

bh[/QUOTE]
 
Great thread. I'm having these same problems, no power, 40mph going up the "hills", getting passed on the highway by little old ladies... After reading the posts I'm thinking I should have the carb rebuilt. Any suggestions on where I could send it? Or better yet, anyone know of a shop near Denver that knows these carbs? Thanks.
 
MDH33 said:
Great thread. I'm having these same problems, no power, 40mph going up the "hills", getting passed on the highway by little old ladies... After reading the posts I'm thinking I should have the carb rebuilt. Any suggestions on where I could send it? Or better yet, anyone know of a shop near Denver that knows these carbs? Thanks.
the guy that said he can haul butt up hills is from jackson mississippi...if he was from denver, he'd be getting passed by old ladies too. altitude and grade kill us mountain people. as for the carb, the best is jim c.
 
cschell said:
Is the torque rod you're talking about the one that is linked to the gas pedal through the firewall?
The torque rod is the one that lives between a hanger at the top of the firewall and the carb base bracket. It should be installed so the short arm is receiving the push up from the gas pedal and the long arm is applying push to the carburetor.

Clear like mud, yes? :)
 
My prob was actually the secondary diaphragm linkage being installed incorrectly by me :) , but I guess I'm going to go out and check my torque rod now too,

Good thread.
 
that damn torque rod & thanks!

i wanted to revive this thread and thanks to ps40-2/Barry and Jim C. [and others] for their advice on the torque rod. after a trip with some grades/inclines this weekend i came home today to jump on mud and find out why i had the accelerator floored and no more juice ... all in CA, not CO.

just stepped outside with the instructions on the torque rod orientation from Jim C., and voila, someone along the lines has reversed it. i flip it and jump in - WOAH - it's a whole new truck.

this is doubly important to me as i was really concerned after this weekend that my FJ60 love might be dashed and become useless for the upcoming snowboard season. i live in SF and drive often to Tahoe - which would have been a nightmare had i not noticed this problem.

point is, i was actually contemplating trading the 60 for an 80 and now i'm very happy to say that the 60 will get a ton more love.

thanks guys.
 
Can any of you guys take a pic of how it is supposed to insatlled? I'm new to cruisers and at work right now, and at first light I'm going to try and find this torque rod and see if mine azz backward as well.

Thanks again guys
 

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