80 Series Sticking Rear Caliper Woes (1 Viewer)

[MonsterCruiser]

Having an annoying issue with sticking rear calipers and I was wondering if anyone else locally is having the same issue and where they are sourcing their replacement calipers from?

Back story...March 2012 my right rear caliper started to stick really bad, so I had a full rear brake replacement (both calipers, pads and rotors). One year and one week later (approx. 20,000 km later) my left rear caliper started sticking. It stuck bad enough that it wore the rotor past it's tolerance, so the left rear caliper and rotor were replaced and new pads on both sides. Right rear caliper was removed and inspected and nothing was found to be wrong with it, and the rotor was still 98% of original thickness.

Here we are in June and now my right rear caliper has started sticking, so basically, both of my replaced rear calipers failed in about a year. This is f*****g retarded. How can my calipers have a shorter life span than pads and rotors?

Where have other 80 series owners got their replacement calipers from? Anyone have a similar problem with calipers? TIA

 

[Glenn-BJ74]

Were they Toyoto OEM rebuild kits or aftermarket? Budget-Midas they tend to use the cheaper rebuilt calipers with after market kits. Did they replace the hardware kits? The pad retention springs can be trired or damaged - so a poor brake job may have used the old stuff. Many reasons. Get your rebuilt calipers from a US Toyota dealer with OEM kits.

 

[Cruisin']

I have had similar issues with mine. Used calipers sourced at Napa. Seems to me I replaced both at one point, then just one some time later. Can't really remember as it was a while back. Glenn's suggestion to use Toyota parts from a US dealer is a good one, and that's probably what I'll do next time this crops up.

Mine was sticking so bad at one point that it would heat up the hub so you couldn't keep your hand on it, and I was down about 1.5mpg.

 

[BCR4619]

Nothing new, I heard rumbling's that OEM's do the same.

Dads have done this since he has got the truck, and just replaced my rears cuz they both were seized.... Man she glides better now and more than likely has better l/100k

 

[steverb]

Check your rubber brake lines they can collapse internally and cause your brakes to stay on. Had the same problem with my Chevy s10

 

[MonsterCruiser]

Thanks for the suggestions guys

I contacted CDan, but apparently he's away indefinitely with some family issues. Christian txt'd me an idea and I'll go that route in conjunction with checking the brake lines.

Cheers!

 

[canucksafari]

Check your rubber brake lines they can collapse internally and cause your brakes to stay on. Had the same problem with my Chevy s10

I have now seen this twice on older vehicles. Best way to check is to try to bleed the calipers. If you can get much of a flow of brake fluid (or no flow at all), then it is very likely a brake-line is internally collapsed. It could also be a plugged load sensing valve.

The other thing is one which most people never do anymore, replace your brake fluid every couple years. Brake fluid is hygroscopic - meaning that it will absorb moisture whenever possible. Brake lines do rust from the inside out and also caliper bores will start to rust. Rust scale becomes dislodged and can cause the caliper to bind (jam) of for it to plug lines and load sensing valves.

I now have rebuilt all 8 calipers on my 2 Safaris. It isn't hard to do if you got compressed air, a small hone and patients. The later I find myself lacking on when trying to get the pistion back in without jaming up the dust seal. The worst part of the job.

Just make sure you clean everything really well and Lubricate parts and seals with clean new brake fluid. If I were to do it all over again. I think I would first replace all the steel brake lines and hoses and then rebuild the calipers.

 

[MARCIN]

This happened to me twice, sticky caliper can cause a NASTY vibration at high speeds coming from rear axle as it is fooled to switch power from one wheel to the other.
Solution:
Before installing you next caliper pull the pistons out of it (tight fit, do not drop them...) and grease them with thick, heat and water resistant grease, make sure there is extra grease behind the seals. Ask John at ATEB for the right grease, he tough me this trick. The calipers will last several times longer, even with occasional water crossings.
New or rebuild calipers come only with thin oil layer which wears of quickly and any water getting behind the rubber seals ceases their operation.(this ensures future business for the shops, I guess)

(I strongly disagree with changing brake fluid every couple of years, very strongly... )
cheers,

 

[Wheelingnoob]

I got Toyota reman callipers about a month ago for my LX, they where not very impressive, missing the copper crush washers and one was missing the new springs. I'll see how they last, apparently they only had 3 left in the North American parts system when I got mine.

For the fronts I got some raybestose premium's from Rock Auto ($60 something each) and plan to rebuild my stock front's as spares. I too have had bad experiences with jobber remain callipers on other cars.

Toyota does not have reman front callipers for the 80 (93-97) only new at $420 each.

 

[BCR4619]

They do, u just need a good parts guy... That's what I'm running in the fronts

 

[Wheelingnoob]

They do, u just need a good parts guy... That's what I'm running in the fronts

Yeha I found the part number but the cost of a temp set of callipers was more than I wanted to spend so I got the cheapness and a Toyota rebuild kit. After seeing the Toyota Remain rears I paid good money for there was not way I was going to spend 2x that on the fronts.

 

[canucksafari]

(I strongly disagree with changing brake fluid every couple of years, very strongly... )
cheers,

That's when your problems started? Both hose collapses I saw were after a brake job had been done and then discovered when trying to bleed the system bled. I know my FSM says DOT3 should be replaced every 2 years. It is also easy to screw up a master cylinder seal if you are not very careful with pedal travel (piston travel) doing conventional bleeding. To do both the brakes and clutch systems I had to use a combination of gravity bleeding and pushing it through with the pedal. Bleeding through the load balancing valve is not simple one shot procedure.

 

[AJAEbj42]

John,
You have to change your Dot 3 datsooon? (sorry, couldn't resist).

Jeremy,
Yikes, sorry to hear the calipers are that expensive and unreliable?

 

[BCR4619]

Yeha I found the part number but the cost of a temp set of callipers was more than I wanted to spend so I got the cheapness and a Toyota rebuild kit. After seeing the Toyota Remain rears I paid good money for there was not way I was going to spend 2x that on the fronts.

Ah ok, yeah ill have to look at what I paid, I didn't get my core as the return shipping would have been a little stupid

Mine came with sweet f all, just the calipers... WTF?!??, John helped me out free of charge thou.... FWIW Lances reman front came with pins and springs apparently, luck of the draw?

Got Ray Reman Rears and they came semi loaded at least for 64 each.

 

[Wheelingnoob]

Yeah it was so strange one caliper had rubber boots, the other was missing a bleeder cap. One of the calipers had a very rust pitted piston as well. I truly hope that last as i had to give the cores back. I was kind of shocked at how poor the Toyota re mans where done. My $60 Raybestos front calipers had everything needed plus a bit more. Meh

 

[LanceCruiser]

I replaced my rear brakes about year ago with a kit from Radd Cruisers, I haven't had a problem with them. The only thing I wish I did was paint the calipers, since the cad plating got eaten away pretty quick from the s*** they spay on the roads during the winter.

 

[canucksafari]

John,
You have to change your Dot 3 datsooon? (sorry, couldn't resist).

Jeremy,
Yikes, sorry to hear the calipers are that expensive and unreliable?

Well played Rob. I don't think the fluid was ever changed in my 5 spd for the brakes or the clutch. People don't usually follow the FSM too closely - not even me.

New calipers are crazy expensive for JDM. In most cases, they can be rebuilt unless the bore is also shot. There are a few people selling new pistons as well. I had a couple pistons that had the chrome rusted and pitted with the chrome lifted off them. Funny there was either none or very little rust on the bores. Calipers are something that should also be serviced at each brake pad change. The boots on the slides should be inspected for cracks and tears and the pins cleaned and re greased. Also check the dust cover on the piston. In every case of a seized caliper I also found cracked and torn boots and usually a dry and/or rusty pin(s).

 

[MonsterCruiser]

Step 1, pulled and greased the slide pins tonight. I cleaned off the pins before applying new grease and I found that one of the pins had quite a few score marks on it. Normal or is this possibly causing a problem. I took some photos, but I can't download them until tomorrow. The score marks were primarily between the longitudinal grooves and the threads.

I'll see tomorrow if I'm still getting a warm wheel

I replaced my rear brakes about year ago with a kit from Radd Cruisers, I haven't had a problem with them. The only thing I wish I did was paint the calipers, since the cad plating got eaten away pretty quick from the **** they spay on the roads during the winter.

I've found this as well. I did a couple of trips to AB and a number of trips to northern Vancouver Island where there was very little traffic, so I'm sure the amount of salt accumulating on all components of my truck was significant. I've also noticed a lot more surface rust on the underside after this past winter. I think a new undercoating is going to be done this summer.

 

[MonsterCruiser]

Pics of the grooves/scoring below. It doesn't show up too well though. Still getting the caliper sticking this morning so greasing didn't help

 

[BCR4619]

Did you make sure the piston was not seized? Pull the cover off and grease that too?