80 series stabilizer link bars and other questions? (1 Viewer)

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i've been trying to track down a slightly loose feel at my front wheels and i am now thinking it is the "stabilizer link bars".
1. when replacing rhese you buy two bushings for the other ends? and two ball joint things but not the bracket? or i guess it comes as one piece?
2. how do you know when these are bad aside from the fact they are probably 25 years old.
3. my brackets seem to be a bit twisted. can i just hammer them back into shape? or the fact they are a little wonky means i should look further?
4. can anyone help me wrap my head around how the front end behaves? the wheels are obviously attached directly to the axle. the axle is then separated and supporting the frame with the coils and shocks? then - well at that point you primarily have the two radius arms attaching the axle basically on kind of a restricted arc with the middle of the frenetic somewhere? then this stabilizer bar has yeo very low torque value bolts attaching it to the two sides of the axle? and it kind of turns back and is hanging off these two ball joint connections at the frame? is there a way to intuitively understand how the radius arms and the stabilizer bars behave handling wise?
THANKS

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I usually just grab on to the part with bushings (arm, link, rod, bar) and try to shake the sh*t out of the part looking for abnormal play. Try it sitting on tires, and try it off the tires jacked up. While you're there, try rocking your tires too in case it might be bearings :)

How are your radius arm bushings and front panhard bushings have you checked on those?
 
The stabilizer bar is to tie the left and right body to together through a big bar spring (stabilizer). It limits body roll. It has nothing to do with retaining the axel under the truck.

1) The radius arms control the Fore and Aft position of the axel, while limiting its tendency to rotate around the tires when torque is applied to the propeller shaft. They can't eliminate this rotation completely because of the rubber bushings at the connection points. The axel is allowed to pivot up and down because of the single point of connection at the frame. The axel can't rotate around the drive shaft because of the two points of contact on the axel housing and the third point of contact on the frame.
2) the Panhard bar controls the axel's position left and right and keeps it "centered" under the rig. The axel shifts left and right a little with-in the limit of the arc of the Panhard bar.

3) If your TRE's are whipped you'll feel it when shaking the tire from the 9 and 3 o'clock position, need to lift the side you're shaking.
If they are are only sort of tired, you'll need a helping hand. Leave the tires on the ground. Grab a TRE in one hand holding both halves, have your helper bump the steering wheel back and forth off the play in the steering. If there is any play in the TRE you will feel the relative movement between the joint halves. If the TRE is solid the joint will feel like a solid single unit. There are 4 that need to be checked.

4) To check the King Pins (upper and lower pivots that set caster, AKA knuckle bearings, AKA upper and lower ball joints). Pick up one side of the front end and stick a bar under the tire and try to lift the tire with the bar using the driveway as the fulcrum. If the wheel moves (other than squishes) you're knuckle bearings need attention.
Check both sides.

5) To check Wheel bearings: while the tire is lifted grab it at 12 o'clock and shove it in and out. If you feel any movement your wheel bearings need attention.
Check both sides.
 
My aftermarket offset radius arm bushings failed which led to unpredictable behavior on the street. The slightest bump in the road caused the truck to wiggle and steer uncontrollably. After replacing them and fixing caster, the truck drove great.
 

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