80 series Slinky/ICON Long Travel Suspension officially coming to the U.S.A. (2 Viewers)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Is there anything special or any trimming required on a flareless 80 in order to fit 35's with the 50mm kit?

That's my plan after the 33's wear out and I regear...
 
Last edited:
I do like to move the axle forward a little to make room.

Can use the 3/8 bush offset or we also do weld on plates for a 1" shift.

SB1044X__07436.1444103275.1280.1280.jpg


12717784_1124406110926646_4069961375691381691_n_zpsbzuwziup.jpg


Low pressures you will get the odd touch here and there, but if your tyres dont rub, it means you can fit bigger ones :)
 
I'm researching different options for my 80 build. Right now I'm town between 4wheelundergrounds 3 link kit and this kit. The cruiser I'm restoring/building already has 300k so I'm making a comprehensive list what needs to be done, so I can knock everything out within 6 months of starting. This looks promising, but it also looks like the front end only flexes when it has to. What would I need to do to make the front end working as much as the rear with this kit?
 
Quick & dirty shock report:
The specs on the mystery front Icons are 17" compressed 28.25" extended measured at the collars. End result is they are the same specs as my Doetsch Techs that I just took off. Mount to mount which is a more accurate way to measure is 19" compressed 30" extended.
I'm very happy with the end result of my set up.:):bounce::steer:
screenshot_2016-09-15-21-27-10-1-jpg.1324134


I had an itch on my way to the grocery store... so I had to scratch it.

I can't belive how big these fenders are... the 37"s can go up even more than this.
20160919_091434-png.1324128

Not to bad for a family wagon.
20160918_171425-jpg.1324129

screenshot_2016-09-18-17-16-13-png.1324132

Still have about 1" more up travel to go... my other coils would of been completely on the bumps here.
20160920_145525.jpg
 
Last edited:
Quick & dirty shock report:
The specs on the mystery front Icons are 17" compressed 28.25" extended measured at the collars. End result is they are the same specs as my Doetsch Techs that I just took off. Mount to mount which is a more accurate way to measure is 19" compressed 30" extended.
I'm very happy with the end result of my set up.:):bounce::steer:
screenshot_2016-09-15-21-27-10-1-jpg.1324134


I had an itch on my way to the grocery store... so I had to scratch it.

I can't belive how big these fenders are... the 37"s can go up even more than this.
20160919_091434-png.1324128

Not to bad for a family wagon.
20160918_171425-jpg.1324129

screenshot_2016-09-18-17-16-13-png.1324132

Still have about 2" more up travel to go... my other coils would of been completely on the bumps here.
20160918_172226-jpg.1324133

Is this the 75mm medium kit?
 
I'm trying to justify the massive price difference between the stage 1 and the stage 4 kit. Can someone help me understand why it's such a huge difference when the off the shelf icons are priced at $650 each for 2.5 remote resi with adjustable valving?
 
I'm trying to justify the massive price difference between the stage 1 and the stage 4 kit. Can someone help me understand why it's such a huge difference when the off the shelf icons are priced at $650 each for 2.5 remote resi with adjustable valving?
From what I have read the 2.5 are adjustable with a dial with compression & rebound. I also read the #4 on a 2.5 is where there stage #1 is set. the 2.0 is fine unless you are running on long washed out roads for long periods of time or just want more tunability. I'm happy with my stage #1 shocks.
 
I don't know how comfortable I am with a 2 inch shock with a 3 ton truck. I've got icon 2.5's on my Tacoma which is a fair bit lighter and they have been amazing.

I've got a lot of things up in the air with my upcoming build (armor, engine swap, overland setup with the standard goodies) and I've got access to four wheel scales to be able to get a base weight for custom valving. I've also been quoted a reasonable surcharge for custom valving and lengths that's still honestly some savings.

I don't want to compare apples to oranges, or speak ill of anyone's product or pricing in ignorance. But I've sent some pm's that have gone unanswered and I want to believe there's value, but I can't see it from the literature that's presently available. I'm a guy looking to be sold and I can't seem to find the right salesman!
 
If you were able to get Justin from redline on the phone (good luck with that!) and he could reassure you there was a complete kit on HIS shelf that would work for you I would consider buying from him. I Know he cant do that since there are so many people that ordered back in April and May that are still waiting on part. Myself included.

So with that in mind if your willing to wait I would wait till all the backorders are fulfilled and he has "complete" kits ready to go on the shelf. If your not willing to wait I would look elsewhere. That's just my opinion...
 
I don't know how comfortable I am with a 2 inch shock with a 3 ton truck. I've got icon 2.5's on my Tacoma which is a fair bit lighter and they have been amazing.

I've got a lot of things up in the air with my upcoming build (armor, engine swap, overland setup with the standard goodies) and I've got access to four wheel scales to be able to get a base weight for custom valving. I've also been quoted a reasonable surcharge for custom valving and lengths that's still honestly some savings.

I don't want to compare apples to oranges, or speak ill of anyone's product or pricing in ignorance. But I've sent some pm's that have gone unanswered and I want to believe there's value, but I can't see it from the literature that's presently available. I'm a guy looking to be sold and I can't seem to find the right salesman!
Have you had a chance to see my review of the Stage 1 stuff in the latest issue of TCT Magazine? that might offer a bit of info as a starting point.

Here's where I see the value of the Stage 4 now that I have a decent amount of time with my Stage 1 and a bit of time in a truck with Stage 4.
First off. The 2.0 shocks are more than capable of handling a truck the size of the 80. Have you seen the OEM shocks? Have you looked at the wildly common Old Man Emu shocks?

I have been running my 2.0s pretty hard since I got them in May and for the majority of the time they are fantastic! I have not been in a truck with the off-the-shelf ICONs so I can't comment on comparison but I do know that the Autocraft valving is different in the shocks that are in the Slinky kits. IMO the valving is as close to perfect as I think I could ask for. As has been mentioned the Stage 1's are roughly the equivalent of the Stage 4's at a setting of 4. I find that when I'm pushing the suspension really hard at higher speeds through large whoops I will "overrun" the shocks and be into the bumpstops. If you like traveling fast through rough stuff then the Stage 4s will be worth the expense for a couple of reasons. First, you get the remote reservoir so you have more oil that will stay cooler longer. With the adjustability, you can dial up the dampening as needed for the conditions and speeds as well as changes in load on the truck. In Moab I took Darren's truck with the Stage 4s on a short drive. There was a section where I was bottoming out the Stage 1. I don't recall what setting Darren had the Stage 4s at but they were set slightly stiffer than the #4 setting and didn't bottom out through the same section at a higher speed and as a result it was smoother and the truck was more controlled instead of a big jarring hit that unsettles the truck when you bottom out.

I am looking to upgrade to the Stage 4 at some point because of the adjustability with the custom valving, that from my experience, is really dialed in for heavy trucks like the 80s. Again, I can't make a comparison to the off-the-shelf shocks, but these custom spec ones from Autocraft have clearly been thoroughly worked through. With the unknowns with your build that you mentioned, having the ability to adjust as weight and setup changes seems like it would be attractive.

 
I don't know how comfortable I am with a 2 inch shock with a 3 ton truck. I've got icon 2.5's on my Tacoma which is a fair bit lighter and they have been amazing.

I've got a lot of things up in the air with my upcoming build (armor, engine swap, overland setup with the standard goodies) and I've got access to four wheel scales to be able to get a base weight for custom valving. I've also been quoted a reasonable surcharge for custom valving and lengths that's still honestly some savings.

I don't want to compare apples to oranges, or speak ill of anyone's product or pricing in ignorance. But I've sent some pm's that have gone unanswered and I want to believe there's value, but I can't see it from the literature that's presently available. I'm a guy looking to be sold and I can't seem to find the right salesman!

You can valve a 2" shock so stiff that it will bend the shaft. Controlling the weight of these pigs isn't the problem. The problem is that valving converts energy into heat. The less oil volume, the more heat soak. The more heat soak, the less effective your shocks are. Realistically most guys on here couldn't tell the difference between well tuned 2" and 3" shocks for 90% of the terrain you will be driving in an FJ80. You will, however notice that 2" shocks just don't last as long between rebuilds (if you go hard). That small oil volume gets contaminated and smells like burnt cats ass after just a few seasons, where as the 3" shocks with 4x the oil will last a good bit longer. Interesting note; 2.5" shocks have twice the oil of a 2" of the same length. I'm not advocating ignoring shock maintenance, but most people do ignore it. If you're one of those people get 2.5's and pencil in a rebuild five years from now.
 
I'm not saying 2.0s are the way to go.....

....but there is something to be said for the potential for a smaller shaft and less initial seal/thrust friction you have to break through. That can make tuning some issues easier, especially in the low shaft speed tuning area from what I understand.

There is also a difference in how much total damping capacity there is in a 5/8 vs 7/8 shaft 2.0 shock.
While oil volume is limited in most IFP shocks, once you step up to a resi shock a lot of that issue goes away.

I'd love to see someone offer a 2.0 dia x 5/8 shaft resi bolt-in shock for the 80 series at about $200-250 per shock.
I think some of the newer JK pin top applications might get you pretty close.
I don't know if the 80-series IFP shaft would cross over, but that would get you the pin mount bottom for the front.
 
I'm not saying 2.0s are the way to go.....

....but there is something to be said for the potential for a smaller shaft and less initial seal/thrust friction you have to break through. That can make tuning some issues easier, especially in the low shaft speed tuning area from what I understand.

There is also a difference in how much total damping capacity there is in a 5/8 vs 7/8 shaft 2.0 shock.
While oil volume is limited in most IFP shocks, once you step up to a resi shock a lot of that issue goes away.

I'd love to see someone offer a 2.0 dia x 5/8 shaft resi bolt-in shock for the 80 series at about $200-250 per shock.
I think some of the newer JK pin top applications might get you pretty close.
I don't know if the 80-series IFP shaft would cross over, but that would get you the pin mount bottom for the front.

Toyota Landcruiser 80 Series 2.0″ Performance Shock System
 
Adding the resi option brings the per corner cost up to $330 a shock. I think they missed the price point a bit for a 2.0

The Fox 2.0 smooth body stuff for is less than $250.
They just don't have a pin top, pin bottom, version that I can find yet....
I am pretty sure all the parts are in a catalog somewhere.

I think Down South Motor Sports will put whatever ends you want on them.
 
Adding the resi option brings the per corner cost up to $330 a shock. I think they missed the price point a bit for a 2.0

The Fox 2.0 smooth body stuff for is less than $250.
They just don't have a pin top, pin bottom, version that I can find yet....
I am pretty sure all the parts are in a catalog somewhere.

Why the requirement for pin mounts? I've been running those Fox 2.0 remotes for years with eye mount adapters and I think I paid $760 for all four.

Granted you need to go 4" lift instead of 2-3", but 4" is just so much easier to dial. People are spending a fortune to lose 1-2" of lift that only makes the front driveline harder to dial in caster v. pinion angle.

One of the worst obsessions is long travel shocks. Big, heavy rigs need max tire size, gearing, lockers, and suspension balance. The rest of it is mostly tit tassels.
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom