80 series rust questions (1 Viewer)

[Brimley]

Get a needle scaler. Works wonder knocking of rust before treatment and gets into tight spots better than angle grinder: Amazon product ASIN B004Z3XX1Q

 

[Swbkrn2003]

Meh, nothing structural so far. Give the worst looking spots some wacks with a hammer, poke around with screwdriver, pry bar, whatever. I'd be surprised if it didnt have years in it yet. Once youve poked around, mechanically removing as much rust as you can then paint, or your coating of choice. Or just give it a good spray with something oily, get into as much of the inside of frame and body panels, door bottoms as you can. Itll look a lot less scary and prolong the life exponentially. Rust Check brand products are a Canadian standby, they come in two flavours, a light runny red fluid and a heavier 'amber' that goes on almost like an oily gel. Red stuff for inside for inside of panels and such. Can be had in aerosols for convenience or larger quantities if desired. By the pail or even the drum. Also know as oil based rust proofing.

Can use whatever is cheap though, wd40 is too light. Old farmer method is used engine oil, I've seen people use chainsaw bar oil and Atf as well. Messy. But works,. Expect anything runny you spray into panels to drip for a day or two, not exactly street friendly.

Being in TX, once youve gotten ahead of the rusties it shouldnt be a problem for some time to come.

Ps, Fluid Film is also a Canadian product and has very similar sticking/flow characteristics to commercial rustproofing products such as 'amber' Rust Check. Much tider than the runny stuff.

Use a 4.5" grinder with wire wheels, use corroseal to convert the rust the paint with por,-15. Mine was 1/4 of what you got and I spent 4-days prep.and two days painting and the going back to hit spots I missed. just make sure you put the cardboard underneath the car makes it easier to slide and you won't trash or driveway you will be sweeping up a lot of crap but it doesn't look too bad as long as you don't have structure or frame rust you should be okay.

 

[anydawg1]

I've posted in another thread ( Hello ALL, Wish me luck 1994 FZJ80) but it's been sitting for over a year and I started working on different areas. Here's a video of a needle scaler (as someone else stated) https://photos.app.goo.gl/KGqfRL2eSV7U5WaMAplus it was greasy as all hell and power washing, needle and wire week works wonders is an understatement. Also the way I see it don't tackle everything all at once. Start with the worst first and take on different parts on different times (but then again my truck just sits and I'm not using it). Either way make yourself feel better and know it doesn't look like this!

 

[PolarRunner]

I don’t feel as bad about mine now. Planning to needle scale, wire wheel, wash paint and protect. Rear has it the worst, front isn’t bad thanks to the automatic anti-rust system.

 

[Grandlooser]

Yeah its not that bad, peeps who dont know about this stuff get scared. Its amazing how good it can look after busting it off with a scaler. Also when rust forms, it bloats like a growth and makes it look like a lot more material has been eaten away than what actually has. You have to bust off some scale to get an understanding of that.

 

[Rifleman]

Also when rust forms, it bloats like a growth and makes it look like a lot more material has been eaten away than what actually has.

And sometimes the rust damage turns out to be WAY WORST then you though once you've removed it. I had a customer bring me a 12 bolt rear end out of a 1970, Z28 that the customer wanted me to clean up so he could install it in his 1973, Z28.

This rear end came out of a rust belt car, once i got all the rust removed it became apparent that the rust damage was way more extensive then the customer knew. The rust had eaten clear through both axle tubes where they entered the center cast iron housing.

The outside surface of the center cast iron housing had so many DEEP pot marks in it that it looked like the surface of the moon once it was cleaned up.

Long story short, he ended up using that rear end, but only after spending A TON OF MONEY on having the old axle tubes removed, and new ones welded in place.

 

[Grandlooser]

Of course it can go that way as well.

 

[sunrk]

I see Fluid Film is sold in Australia too. Still un-decided on the right way to rust-treat inside the body sills where my 80 has rust coming from the inside. I'm considering the Fluid Film stuff or Fishoilene.

 

[SNLC]

Sorry for your loss man. There is no way i would invest any sort of money or time into a truck like that. And this is coming from someone in the "rust belt". Living in TX, there is no excuse to own a rust bucket.
Part it out, or sell it.

^ this

Cheers

 

[80 Series Al]

Manufactured in San Mateo, CA by the Eureka Chemical Company.
Corporate offices in San Francisco.

Maybe more of a Canadian staples me thinks