80-Series RR Axle Disassembly? (1 Viewer)

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Jan 25, 2004
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Da UP, eh...
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www.trailcarnage.com
I picked up a 80 axle yesterday and am in the process of disassembly. I pulled the axle shafts out, no problem. I then removed the 4 nuts holding the studs that pass through the axle housing flange. At this point, I figured that a heavy mallet would pop the spindle/brake assembley free. I have thumped the heck out of it with no success. Is the spindle part of the axle housing or can it be removed with the brakes? Do I have to break down the wheel bearing assembley to get it apart? Or am I just not hitting it hard enough? Any info would be greatly appreciated...

~Tom
 
The spindle is part of the housing, the 4 studs/nuts hold the caliper bracket to the housing. Inside the hub - remove the phillips screws from the outer ring (a trick locking set-up, eh?), this will allow you to unscrew it and remove the hub/bearings. Enjoy.
 
[quote author=bjowett link=board=2;threadid=10620;start=msg95318#msg95318 date=1075069530]
The spindle is part of the housing, the 4 studs/nuts hold the caliper bracket to the housing. Inside the hub - remove the phillips screws from the outer ring (a trick locking set-up, eh?), this will allow you to unscrew it and remove the hub/bearings. Enjoy.
[/quote]

Dang! I was afraid that you would say that. :p
 
sounds similar to my full float chevy if you can wait I'll come help out (would like to see it come apart anyway)

love the avatar :beer:
 
[quote author=bjowett link=board=2;threadid=10620;start=msg95318#msg95318 date=1075069530]
The spindle is part of the housing, the 4 studs/nuts hold the caliper bracket to the housing. Inside the hub - remove the phillips screws from the outer ring (a trick locking set-up, eh?), this will allow you to unscrew it and remove the hub/bearings. Enjoy.
[/quote]

OK

I got the axle disassembled and the brackets stripped. Now I am trying to rebuild the outers. What is the trick to getting the rotor/drumm off of the assembly. I have doused it with PB and it still won't move. I figured that the shoes were frozen but I beginning to think that there is a holding mechanism. Any insight?
 
[quote author=bjowett link=board=2;threadid=10620;start=msg95781#msg95781 date=1075175068]
I've always had them pop off rather easily. Does it turn? Make sure the ebrake is properly released.
[/quote]

It appears that the e-brake shoes are frozen to the drum. We have gone as far as to drill out the pivot pin for the shoes. We can't even get it to break free of the backing plate. I am ready to take the plasme cutter to them but RAVENTAI says I should find a less destructive route.
 
Carnage,

Are you saying that the drums cannot even rotate, indicating that the shoes are indeed frozen to the drum, or are you saying they are because you cannot get the drum assembly off? Don't be insulted by this, but "appears" is one thing, but clearly if you cannot rotate the drum then they are frozen. So which is it - actually frozen or you're simply having trouble getting the drum off which often happens with drum brakes. The advice you may get hinges upon this knowledge.

DougM
 
May I ask a silly question?


Is this a disc brake rear axle?
 
Hey Dan, read the first line carefully, as I was also contemplating the same thing........

"I picked up a 80 axle yesterday and am in the process of disassembly. I pulled the axle shafts out, no problem"

You can't pull the shafts on a semi floater w/o first removing the drums.
Since the shafts are out, and the drums are on, mustabeafullfloater. yes/no ???
 
It is a full floating axle. It may not be an 80 series FF axle. The 80 series FF axle is a disc brake axle. FJ45,60,62 models had FF axles available. They were drum brake axles.
 
yes it is a full floater w/disk service brakes and drum parking brake. the shoes appear to be seized to the rotor/drum. we released the tension on the E-brake bell crank stop, is there another adjuster inside? there is no removable plug on the backing plate like you would see on a domestic with drum brakes to adjust the "star wheel" there is a small round rubber plug on the front of the drum but there is nothing under it and we cannot rotate the rotor/drum to another position, it is an axle that has been sitting loose outside in a junkyard for quite a wile,
 
Thank you for the clarification.

The hole in the rotor face is used to back off the shoes. Since you can't rotate the rotor to get the hole to the bottom to access the adjuster you do have a problem. Have you tried attaching a long bar to the pinion flange to try and rotate the axles in that manner? You will of course need to put the shafts back in. You may get enough of a mechanical advantage to break the rotors loose from the e-brake shoes using that method. In addition, there are two 8mm holes in the face of the rotor that are used to run bolts into the rotor to push it off of the hub. They are located opposite each other in between the lug studs.
 
Thank you C-dan, the internal adjuster sounds like our culprit, reassembling would be a pain at this point the 3rd member is removed and the brake-backing-plate/hub/rotor-drum assy is already off the axle but reassembly may be the only way we can break it free
 
BTW we noticed that the bolt/stud pattern for the axle flange is the same as toyota manual front hubs and that the spline is also the same, is there an oem axle shaft that is splined on both ends that could be used so that you could have manual rear hubs? or would you have to have custom shafts made?
 
[quote author=raventai link=board=2;threadid=10620;start=msg96022#msg96022 date=1075230340]
BTW we noticed that the bolt/stud pattern for the axle flange is the same as toyota manual front hubs and that the spline is also the same, is there an oem axle shaft that is splined on both ends that could be used so that you could have manual rear hubs? or would you have to have custom shafts made?
[/quote]

Nope, no EOM spilned-on-both-ends shafts. You would have to go custom. There is quite a bit of talk on this subject on another BB. People are talkin' of gettin' custom shafts made and then runnin' the flanges from the fronts of the 80's. Though not for 80 series rears specifically, the same could work. The only real advantage of custom shafts would be if you are wantin' some custom stronger material shafts made...

-Ferg-
 
If u can't turn the drum so u line up the hole (often has a rubber stopper in it) so u can poke a screwdriver in to move the 'star' and loosen the brake shoes (not sure how successful if fully rusted) what u can do is:
drill a new hole where the 'star wheel' is and poke your screwdriver thru that (will have to measure existing hole to get right diameter setting).
Could also try and soak whole end of housing (yah I know its heavy and not easy to do) into a large bucket (or hole in the ground) filled with some 'cleaner'/deruster for a day or two and see if that helps.

(I'd get my sledgehammer to it after that :)
 

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