80 Series Fuel Tank Replacement (FZJ80) (3 Viewers)

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putting this back to life.........im dropping my tank to be replaced by a new oem tank. just wanted to know what parts i need to order that needed replacement like the sock and gaskets and maybe the tank inlet pipe or the hoses. has any one came up with the complete list? i live on the rust belt region .thanks


Pm sent to Beno
 
80 series fuel tank replacement parts list
1 83320-69055 gage assy,f 1
2 23219-03010 clip, fuel 1
3 23217-16490 filter 1
4 23221-66040 pump, fuel 1
5 23249-74150 rubber, cus 1
6 23239-11010 hose 1
7 90430-12026 gasket 2
8 90401-12097 bolt, union 1
9 23091-61020 tube sub-as 1
10 77169-60010 gasket, fue 1
11 90080-11441 bolt, w/was 2
12 91651-61025 bolt, w/was 4
13 77601-60150 band sub-as 1
14 77602-60060 band sub-as 1
15 77606-60070 protector s 1
16 77001-69036 tank s/a,fu 1
17 77380-26010 valve assy, 1
18 77011-60030 pipe sub-as 1
19 77018-60030 tube sub-as 1
20 23206-66900 Bracket assy, fuel pump
 
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putting this back to life.........im dropping my tank to be replaced by a new oem tank. just wanted to know what parts i need to order that needed replacement like the sock and gaskets and maybe the tank inlet pipe or the hoses. has any one came up with the complete list? i live on the rust belt region .thanks


Pm sent to Beno
where did you get a new tank at? I have an 89 FJ62 that needs a new tank. Thanks.
 
I guess from Beno ?

or any other of the MUD favorite Toyota parts vendors - like cruiserdan or Sam Stewart
 
Got it from my local dealer , at that time it's the only one left in the US as I was told.
 
Beno, any chance of a ball park figure on price of parts ? I had to replace my rear brake lines, but when I saw how rusted bolts and parts were decided to go a more creative way with brake line rather than lots os $$$$$ trying to drop tank that works ok for now.
 
@Onur, I was looking at your parts list in this thread. I saw in the pics that you appeared to have a new filter bracket but I didn't see it in the part numbers. Would that be 23206-66900? Also, does anybody know the part number for the bolt/screws that hold the assembly to the tank? I dropped one and can't find it
 
@Onur, I was looking at your parts list in this thread. I saw in the pics that you appeared to have a new filter bracket but I didn't see it in the part numbers. Would that be 23206-66900? Also, does anybody know the part number for the bolt/screws that hold the assembly to the tank? I dropped one and can't find it

That's correct.

Screws: 90159-A0057
 
Looks like a comprehensive list. Minus the straps and skid plate is anything left out? If I do this, I want to do it all and be done with it.
 
Anyone have suggestions on 80 tank straps...concerned after thorough pb blaster soaking, cannot get bolts to remove without twisting tank straps. Fearful of damaging them and not being able to find replacements. Have to drop tank to replace fuel filler neck since its leaking from breather tube/main pipe intersection.
 
Replace it all while you can. It was pricey but I have taken the stance with my 80 that I refuse to put anything on it that I can get new OEM now.
 
Here is all the tank and fixins brand new OEM Toyota
D3CAB2F1-6B99-4432-AE01-886A162E4ED6.jpeg
B4F64DFE-3EE5-4BCB-BE6F-A69F27C4E923.jpeg
 
On the fuel tank, are the strips of padding made of rubber? My BJ42‘s fuel tank used some sort of felt Instead. Do you mind measuring the thickness of the rubber padding? I had my tank restored by TankRenu and was debating on replacing the felt with an alternative.
 
Also I didn’t need to replace my straps as they were in great shape. The excessive leaking from my old motor gave them an extra coat of oil. The straps and bolts are all available new from Toyota though.
 
Finally....

....figured I'd update this thread I started a while back. I actually swapped out the tank and all of the innards in late August at CDan's house with the help of CDan and Mrs. CDan.

Some interesting things:

1. Rust sucks. Got to replace more bolts on this operation. Soon, I won't have any rusted bolts. I must have over $600 in new OEM Toyota nuts and bolts on my rig.

2. It was nasty in the tank after 12 years of use.

3. Dan figured this would be a good time to actually test the theory that the "low gas" indicator light comes on when there is 5 gals. left in the tank. Since we started with a completely new and empty tank, we put a 5 gallon jug of petrol into the thing and lo and behold the light went off exactly as Dan finished pouring in the 5 gallon jug thereby confirming the "low gas" light indicator. When that goes on, you've got 5 gallons left (as long as your tank is still in OEM shape.... :grinpimp: )

4. Fuel pumps are expensive. :eek:

5. I really need to fab (or have fabbed for me) a gas tank skid plate. At the rate I wheel, I'll need a new one after every Rubithon.

6. While you have the fuel pump bracket out, it would be a good time to either sheath or ziptie (or both) the wires that run to the fuel pump out of the way of harm so you don't run into the issues NorCalDoug had in Death Valley a few years back or the same problem I had on my way home from the Rubithon this past summer--basically the gray wire running from the top of the bracket to the fuel pump chafes on the sharp edge of the fuel pump bracket and shorts out thereby rendering your cruiser un-moveable. I grabbed a bit of commercial aircraft grade teflon sheathing/tape and wound the wires with that and then ziptied them out of the way. Should be a good solution.
In any event, onto the pics. The wrenching on this was pretty straight forward. Nothing really interesting whatsoever.

Best regards.
-onur

PS: Ross--good pics of the valve you speak of..... :cheers:
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23091-61020 i need to replace this hose, Do I need to drop the tank?
thanks

0823091631.jpg
 
you might be able to get away with removing the front strap and supporting the tank to get some room for the line, if not its really not that hard to drop the tank when its empty if you have a jack or a friend to help handle the tank. the tanks not all that heavy but due to its size its awkward to handle yourself with out good support
 
Being that I did all of this not long ago I would say no unless you drop the tank some. There’s not much room to work with the tank in there. I replaced this also when I did the tank and it was a bear to get off and the new one on because it didn’t want to budge. There’s no way I could have done mine with the tank in. Also you really need to drop the driveshaft to maneuver the tank.
 

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