80 series fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator issues (1 Viewer)

[Fast Eddy]

Do you still have the circuit breaker in place, or did you swap in the new fusible links? Honestly, I'd continue to run the breaker until you know the issue has been sorted out. Maybe try doing a few torque-stands to simulate the steep uphill climbs.

I had it out for a while while I was debugging, as suggested by Linus and I waiver about if it might be an issue, but I don't think so. As of now I had the same idea as you and it's in, acting as a crappy version of the fusible link. I will return it back to stock eventually. The fusible would take > 30a for a short time without burning out. The breaker would blow and reset in a few seconds right at 30a. Kinda the same and I see why someone might do it this way, but I prefer it to be stock and original.

Torque stands were able to simulate the steep uphills and the stuttering before. I forgot about that. I'll try it. I still haven't taken it out for a drive. We took my 911 over to get aligned on Mon and picked it up today. My is way afraid of the 80 dying on us now.

 

[William839]

I recently had the same issue , only stalled out on very steep hills, started right away after I rolled back, didn’t stutter once just completely died out , interested to see what you discover ..

 

[Fast Eddy]

This thing had been flakey, leaving me stranded or almost stranded a couple times and starting or not starting in the driveway. One day it started and I moved it to the street. We stopped trusting it and it languished for a couple months.

@landcrshr and I went through the harness by the EGR tube one day about a month ago. We found 4-5 wires with toasted insulation but intact copper. We taped them up and wrapped the whole harness with some nice header wrap insulation from Cycle Gear.





Unfortunately that didn't fix anything. We measured a bunch of voltages, and traced a bunch of other wires. Ron has a nice distilled version of the under-hood and EFI circuits that better shows the locations and is generally easier to follow than the regular schematic but we still had to walk away from a cruiser that didn't start that day.

FFWD to last weekend. I read about leaking capacitors in the ECU of other Toyota products, such as the LS-400 and I have been blaming the ECU for awhile, so I took that out for inspection. It was as new as the day it left the factory. The screws are bright and shiny and the board didn't have even a spec of dust on it. While I had it out I traced a few voltages where we had measured strange values. All those wires tested good both with the IGN on and in end-to-end continuity.

With the ECU hanging down from the harness I tried to start it again y nada. Again, I walked away, but it did seem like it wanted to start. Sitting at my desk on Monday I decided to replace the fuel pump. The original mechanic (OM) who had worked on it actually ordered a fitting for his fuel pressure meter to test the fuel pump and he said it tested good. He's not a guy I would normally question but I had the thought that maybe it was flakey and it tested good for him, but failed later, or was intermittent. (?)

Got the fuel pump Friday, took out the seats Saturday am, pulled back the carpet, removed the very-shiny access panel screws and found that the main fuel pump connector was not pushed together tightly. It came apart with a light tug with one hand. I clicked that f***er back together and it started right up. Washed the road dirt from months of being parked and we drove it all weekend, to a taqueria and to a pizza joint that's well out of the local neighborhood comfort zone for lunch with my oldest daughter. It's 8 for 8 starting and I believe fixed.

Thanks to @landcrshr, @LINUS and @jonheld for your help. I learned a lot through this process.

I have a spare Denso fuel pump and strainer that I'll add to the spare fuel injection relays and the multimeter in the tool bag for the future.

Now on to other neglected projects. Would you believe this started after sitting since fall without even a battery charge? It needs a steering pump and will get a steering box rebuild since it drips a little fluid. I didn't take a pic after I defeated the Kraaken that was trying to consume it.

 

[landcrshr]

Thanks for updating the thread @Fast Eddy .

If you plan to put the Fusible Links back to stock, you'll need these repair parts:

 

[alia176]

@Fast Eddy where did you source the fuel pump from and what is the Denso part # stamped on your unit?

 

[Fast Eddy]

@Fast Eddy where did you source the fuel pump from and what is the Denso part # stamped on your unit?

It's stamped 1951 Denso in raised letters in the plastic and 02 11D 30-6990 in silk screen, both on the end bell.

RockAuto:

	Part Number	Part Type	Price EA	Core EA	Quantity	Total
1997 TOYOTA LAND CRUISER 4.5L L6
DENSO​	9520008 (952-0008)	Fuel Pump Strainer	$ 7.27​	$ 0.00​	1​	$ 7.27​
DENSO​	9510003 (951-0003)	Fuel Pump	$ 104.79​	$ 0.00​	1​	$ 104.79​

 

[alia176]

Thank you very much for replying, much appreciated.

 

[alia176]

I'll go order this pump today, hoping it'll be from Japan!