80 series fuel pump or fuel pressure regulator issues (1 Viewer)

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Long story: ('97 40th anniv, 120k miles, bone stock)

A few months ago I went to do a day of work at my state park job where we are doing a photo survey of the fire damage from the SCU Lightning Complex Fire. On the first hill of any consequence my 80 stalled. We rolled back to a place where it was flat and eventually it started and we headed back towards civilization. Long chapter short: we made it to a gas station, filled up (I talked to OrangeFJ45 on the phone and he recommended making sure it had gas, thanks Big G.) but it was still stalling out, so we had it towed to a well-known cruiser mechanic (maybe more of an fj40 mechanic, but still).

He had it for some weeks trying to figure it out and traced it to an internally-broken wire by the battery. He installed a circuit breaker and I was back in business for more than a few benjamins.

During the diagnosis he used a fuel pressure gauge and verified the fuel pump good enough that he didn't replace it.

We drove it to the mall (not really, but you know what I mean) for some weeks without issue. One day last week my GF said it wouldn't start (in the driveway), but when I tried it, it was fine.

Last weekend was the return to the state park job. The first hill went fine. We made it way the f' out there until a much steeper 4x4 hill before it stalled. It started back up pretty quickly and we continued. We found a cadence of what worked and what didn't: flooring it up hills didn't work, but crawling very slowly worked ok. We took the photos and I made it home just fine.

I decided that (maybe) there was something causing the fuel pump to have a high power draw that (perhaps) fried the wire in the first place, and now it was hitting the circuit breaker instead, which makes some sense, since it would always restart.

Tonight I went to get a pizza. It drove fine to the place, then wouldn't start at all. It turns over. CE light is fine. At least I had food while I waited for a rescue.

I searched some threads and found that maybe a faulty fuel pressure regulator might cause too much current draw from the pump. Might it also eventually kill the pump?
 
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The fact that it seems aggravated by extreme flex situations seems an important clue. Now that things are getting worse, it happens in the driveway or at the pizza shop. It could be a developing crack in a fuel line or otherwise a bad connection. I've had no problems with ours, so not too familiar with where to look. Maybe a case where some UV dye in the fuel might give a clue if there is a leak or could rule this out (an important result in diagnosing difficult issues)?
 
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Have you pulled the fuel tank access panel and check inside the tank and the fuel sock? Could be it drives ok until something in the tank gets stirred up and clogs the fuel pump sock.
Yea, the mechanic had it all apart. He was planning to replace the pump until he found the wire problem. Once the wire was fixed the pump worked fine and the pressure was good as well. Of course he didn't take it wheeling to test it though.

Not really flex, just uphill. My 40 could have done the dirt road we went on in 2wd easily. I'm sure it's not leaking fuel. It's like new underneath.
 
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Hit "reply" too quickly.... There was a small crack in the bottom of the pipe would open up under stress and cuase the truck to stall. As soon as the engine died, the crack would close back up and the engine would start again.

20210218_114128.jpg
 
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Curious that your mechanic decided to change the wiring system of your Cruiser with a "circuit breaker", instead of simply fixing the problem back to the original design. When you say that it was an internally broken wire next to the battery, that sure sounds like the fusible link harness. The link harness wiring set degrades over time, and many people replace their's as it causes many problems like the one you are having. Last time I check, it is still available from Toyota for under $20. Many of us neurotic Cruiser owners replace ours, AND carry a spare in the glove box just in case. No one likes throwing parts at a problem, but from what you have reported what your mechanic did, I would change it out either way. If some other wire had degraded so much to cause problems, I will guerentee you that the fusible link is in bad shape. (if it hasn't been replaced before, of course)
 
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Curious that your mechanic decided to change the wiring system of your Cruiser with a "circuit breaker", instead of simply fixing the problem back to the original design. When you say that it was an internally broken wire next to the battery, that sure sounds like the fusible link harness. The link harness wiring set degrades over time, and many people replace their's as it causes many problems like the one you are having. Last time I check, it is still available from Toyota for under $20. Many of us neurotic Cruiser owners replace ours, AND carry a spare in the glove box just in case. No one likes throwing parts at a problem, but from what you have reported what your mechanic did, I would change it out either way. If some other wire had degraded so much to cause problems, I will guerentee you that the fusible link is in bad shape. (if it hasn't been replaced before, of course)
I know, right? He told me this live when I was picking it up and it took some time for it to sink in. He's very experienced with cruisers in general, but he also does a lot of V8 swaps. It's always my preference to keep everything 100% Toyota as much as possible. When we were talking about replacing the fuel pump, I wanted Denso, but he was having a problem ordering that and wanted to use an aftermarket brand. :(

There is some other questionable wiring both at the battery and under the dash. Wiring is something that I really hate to deal with as well. :bang: Plus I got a new mountain bike and I really, really don't want to work on this cruiser. It's supposed to be the reliable member of my stable. :(

I'm going to go pull the relay, test it on the bench and see if I can bypass it and get it to start.
 

Road Apple

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I'm going to go pull the relay, test it on the bench and see if I can bypass it and get it to start.
Likely you’re aware, but if you order new parts (e.g., Fusible link and EFI relay, which are good trail spares to have onboard. The EFI also works as a COR replacement too.), order parts at Stevens Creek Toyota online and select the pickup in store option. Slightly more expensive than McGeorge online, but with no shipping cost, Stevens Creek is cheaper. Their in store counter prices are literally double the online price.

Good luck finding your problem. Watching and taking notes for future issues. I’m in Santa Cruz and will get a group together for a Hollister run at some point. Come join !
 
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Ok, so victory. Dominos is going to have to get their own Land Cruiser if they want to look as cool as they did for a day.

I checked the connections for the main EFI relay, the EFI 15a fuse and the Fuel Pump relay. It didn't start before, but it started after.

I read in another thread there's a thing about resetting the EFI by removing the fuse? The ignition was not on when I checked that fuse. (??) I did turn it over with the main EFI relay pulled out, just to see. I was surprised that the CE light was lit no matter what I tried.

It seemed like, maybe, the connector for the Fuel Pump relay wasn't seated all the way. When I was taking it apart I wasn't really thinking about that, but when I put the connector back on there was a satisfying 'snap', and it wasn't too hard to take it apart.

Tomorrow I'll check and maybe clean the contacts for the main fuel pump relay (starting/turnover question/problem - https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=32349), order a new one and keep the old one for a spare. I guess I'll get a couple of fusible links and get rid of the circuit breaker too.

Likely you’re aware, but if you order new parts (e.g., Fusible link and EFI relay, which are good trail spares to have onboard. The EFI also works as a COR replacement too.), order parts at Stevens Creek Toyota online and select the pickup in store option. Slightly more expensive than McGeorge online, but with no shipping cost, Stevens Creek is cheaper. Their in store counter prices are literally double the online price.

Good luck finding your problem. Watching and taking notes for future issues. I’m in Santa Cruz and will get a group together for a Hollister run at some point. Come join !

I was not aware of that online parts ordering option. Sure enough, the relay was $199 when I called and it's $105 online. :idea: I wish I knew that when I bought a $40 Lexus/Prius oil filter wrench the other day. That's better than when I used to get a TLCA discount. And free shipping for orders > $75 with code FREESHIP, so I don't even have to drive over there.

What's really funny is that if I order it from Dubai via ebay, I save $43. Different part number though: 28381-16020. The title has the right part number, but if you zoom the relay is this other number. Maybe just an international part number.
 
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I am in the midst of a long-term diagnosis of intermittent crank but non-start on a 3FE. It's very tricky to diagnose because it infrequently presents. It took weeks of daily starts for it to re-present. Given the various evidence that I won't go into, we (not me, but the team at a Land Cruiser-reputable Toyota dealership) think the problem is a bad fuel pressure regulator. Thus far, since replacing, the problem has not re-presented, but it's too soon to verify that this was the correct or complete diagnosis.
 
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What's really funny is that if I order it from Dubai via ebay, I save $43. Different part number though: 28381-16020. The title has the right part number, but if you zoom the relay is this other number. Maybe just an international part number.

BTW, this part number (28381-16020) is the one that I currently have, not 28380-66010. 28381-16020 was not valid when I called the dealer.
 
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BTW, this part number (28381-16020) is the one that I currently have, not 28380-66010. 28381-16020 was not valid when I called the dealer.
You are referring to the FUEL PUMP RELAY with those part numbers, not the EFI relay.
The EFI relay lives in the fuse box mounted on the left fender (90987-02004).

All of this information is in the EWD page 18.
 
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I am in the midst of a long-term diagnosis of intermittent crank but non-start on a 3FE. It's very tricky to diagnose because it infrequently presents. It took weeks of daily starts for it to re-present. Given the various evidence that I won't go into, we (not me, but the team at a Land Cruiser-reputable Toyota dealership) think the problem is a bad fuel pressure regulator. Thus far, since replacing, the problem has not re-presented, but it's too soon to verify that this was the correct or complete diagnosis.
Different engine than the OP.
A faulty FPR on a 3FE usually manifests itself as difficult hot engine starts due to over pressurization of the fuel rail. This causes the check valve in the fuel pump to stick closed.
Was fuel pressure measured according to the FSM? What were the readings?
 
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You are referring to the FUEL PUMP RELAY with those part numbers, not the EFI relay.
The EFI relay lives in the fuse box mounted on the left fender (90987-02004).

All of this information is in the EWD page 18.
Yes. I know. I pulled both and put them back but haven't replaced either yet.
 

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