80 series Engine noise Diagnostic - HELP!

[ColoradoCruiser31]

I am looking for some help/advice. This is a long winded post so bear with me.

I recently bought a 1993 80 series 1FZ-FE with 330k miles. I purchased the rig thinking it had some valve tick but after more investigation I begrudgingly admitted it had bottom end noise.

Over the past two weekends I have torn into the truck and haven’t found “the smoking gun”. I haven't found anything obvious to point me at what has been causing the lower end noise.

I first thought the truck has possibly spun a bearing. I spent some time listening around while the truck was running with a pry bar pressed to different areas of the engine while pressed against my ear. The majority of the noise came from the bottom end, directly below the crankshaft pulley.

I began by pulling the two oil pans. This took some time but I got her done. I found some metal in the bottom of the pans but nothing like I would have expected to find when a bearing has given up the goat. Photos attached.

I then inspected all the connecting rod bearings by attempting to move them around looking for any slop. I rotated the engine over by hand inspecting each and found all to be in good condition. Not a single connecting rod seems to be the issue.

I inspected the engine some more and even looked down the cylinders with a endoscope and found factory crosshatching with minor scoring on piston walls. Nothing I’m too afraid of as the engine does have 330 THOUSAND miles.

Looking in the pan some more I found more plastic material than metal. That made me immediately think the timing chain tensioner and guides had gone bad. I pulled the timing chain cover today to find the tensioners and plastic guides to still be in rather good shape. I had ordered a new set last week and plan to replace the guides, chain, and other items they come in the kit I purchased from Yota1 performance.

While pulling the chain off and pulling the lower sprocket I noted the oil pump gear seemed to have some play. This is the gear that stays in the engine when you pull the timing cover/oil pump. When rotating the gear, it seems to rotate 1/8 before engaging with anything. Could this be something causing the noise I heard? Also, after doing more research it sounds like a lot of people have “knocking” sounds when their crank pulley bolt is not tight.

when I took my crank bolt off, I strapped a breaker bar to the frame and used the starter to break the bolt loose. The truck has a brand new starter but even considering that, the bolt seemed to break free way too easily. Watching other videos online, most take the truck a secound or more to break the bolt loose. When I broke my bolt loose, I thought the breaker bar had fallen off the bolt because there was no resistance when I cranked the engine.

I have also come across people saying their oil pumps make knocking noises. Could this be a possibility? Should I investigate that further?

I plan to replace the timing chain when it arrives, and want to start to try and get things back together. What are peoples thoughts and ideas? I have attached a photo of the way the truck sits today 0516/26.

I will upload a video of the “knocking” noise that stared this project and post it below.

Thanks

 

[ColoradoCruiser31]

Video attached of engine noise.

1993 Land Cruiser - 80 Series - Engine noise

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

if oil pump cog has a nick in it, it will cause a ticking noise. Same if you have a crack on the y-header of your exhaust collector pipe. Crank bolt has to be per factory torque or your oil pump will not work well or not at all. Check the lash and teeth on oil pump. Also make sure there is no shaft play on the oil pump gear since it rides on a bronze bushing

 

[ColoradoCruiser31]

if oil pump cog has a nick in it, it will cause a ticking noise. Same if you have a crack on the y-header of your exhaust collector pipe. Crank bolt has to be per factory torque or your oil pump will not work well or not at all. Check the lash and teeth on oil pump. Also make sure there is no shaft play on the oil pump gear since it rides on a bronze bushing

Thanks for the advice.
I’ll take a look at the oil pump today. I haven’t been able to open the oil pump housing. I have broken multiple bits trying to break the screws loose. I plan to pickup an impact screwdriver today.
I think I want to replace the screws with some stainless torx or hex heads instead of Philips head as mine are already looking pretty chewy from the previous owner.
Am I able to pull the oil pump cog out of the short block without causing any issues? Is there anything behind it that would pull out with the cog? I have the timing chain sprocket pulled off the crank and want to keep the crank from moving as I have it timed and ready for timing chain installation. Would turning the cogs next to it cause any timing issues or affect anything?

See photos attached of crank. There is a small scratch I have tried to buff out with quad ott Steele wool. I assume it’s from the previous owner. I was very careful when pulling the timing gear and used no metal tools, just my own mits.

Thanks!

 

[MissahPapaJ]

Thanks for the advice.
I’ll take a look at the oil pump today. I haven’t been able to open the oil pump housing. I have broken multiple bits trying to break the screws loose. I plan to pickup an impact screwdriver today.
I think I want to replace the screws with some stainless torx or hex heads instead of Philips head as mine are already looking pretty chewy from the previous owner.
Am I able to pull the oil pump cog out of the short block without causing any issues? Is there anything behind it that would pull out with the cog? I have the timing chain sprocket pulled off the crank and want to keep the crank from moving as I have it timed and ready for timing chain installation. Would turning the cogs next to it cause any timing issues or affect anything?

See photos attached of crank. There is a small scratch I have tried to buff out with quad ott Steele wool. I assume it’s from the previous owner. I was very careful when pulling the timing gear and used no metal tools, just my own mits.

Thanks!

View attachment 4141942

View attachment 4141943

Search TONE tools Japan P3 on Amazon and buy the JIS 3H-P3 3/8ths socket it’s the only way to fly when it comes to oil pump hardware on the 1FZ and 3RZ. Once you have this you really don’t need to change fastener type. That socket fits so snug into the hardware it’s borderline amazing. You’ll be pooping in tall cotton in no time. Also hex isn’t an upgrade compared to what’s already there. I believe Cruiser Outfitters has an oil pump seal and hardware kit but don’t quote me.

 

[ColoradoCruiser31]

Thanks for the advice.
I’ll take a look at the oil pump today. I haven’t been able to open the oil pump housing. I have broken multiple bits trying to break the screws loose. I plan to pickup an impact screwdriver today.
I think I want to replace the screws with some stainless torx or hex heads instead of Philips head as mine are already looking pretty chewy from the previous owner.
Am I able to pull the oil pump cog out of the short block without causing any issues? Is there anything behind it that would pull out with the cog? I have the timing chain sprocket pulled off the crank and want to keep the crank from moving as I have it timed and ready for timing chain installation. Would turning the cogs next to it cause any timing issues or affect anything?

See photos attached of crank. There is a small scratch I have tried to buff out with quad ott Steele wool. I assume it’s from the previous owner. I was very careful when pulling the timing gear and used no metal tools, just my own mits.

Thanks!

View attachment 4141942

View attachment 4141943

I got the oil pump cover off.

Internals look good. My maintenance book says to check the oil pump relief valve by pouring oil into the valve hole. I poured 5w-30 in to hole because that’s the oil weight I have on hand and it’s pooling and not passing though. See photo.

I also checked clearances and everything is in spec. 0.100mm feeler gauge fits nicely with just a little drag. My book says standard body clearance should be 0.100 - 0.170mm (0.0039 - 0.0067 in.).
Maximum body clearance is 0.30mm (0.0118in) for those concerned.

I’m going to pull the valve and see if I can clean it and get it functional again. Should I just order a new one? I’ve found one or two online. Does anyone have any recommendations for replacements?

Thanks!

 

[ColoradoCruiser31]

Search TONE tools Japan P3 on Amazon and buy the JIS 3H-P3 3/8ths socket it’s the only way to fly when it comes to oil pump hardware on the 1FZ and 3RZ. Once you have this you really don’t need to change fastener type. That socket fits so snug into the hardware it’s borderline amazing. You’ll be pooping in tall cotton in no time. Also hex isn’t an upgrade compared to what’s already there. I believe Cruiser Outfitters has an oil pump seal and hardware kit but don’t quote me.

View attachment 4141954

Thanks! I’ll have to pick one up.
I wasn’t having issues with stripping the screws, the bits I had fit snug. My issue was snapping off the head of the driver.

The screws on the housing were really on there.
I read in another forum that people had great success shocking these screws loose. I took a hammer and snug fitting bit and smacked each screw head until my ears bled them tried to loosten each. Worked pretty well! Each screw took 20-30 smackaroos.

Food for thought… hammers fix everything?

 

[MissahPapaJ]

Thanks! I’ll have to pick one up.
I wasn’t having issues with stripping the screws, the bits I had fit snug. My issue was snapping off the head of the driver.

The screws on the housing were really on there.
I read in another forum that people had great success shocking these screws loose. I took a hammer and snug fitting bit and smacked each screw head until my ears bled them tried to loosten each. Worked pretty well! Each screw took 20-30 smackaroos.

Food for thought… hammers fix everything?

It’s always hammer and chisel with 80 series

 

[MissahPapaJ]

Thanks! I’ll have to pick one up.
I wasn’t having issues with stripping the screws, the bits I had fit snug. My issue was snapping off the head of the driver.

The screws on the housing were really on there.
I read in another forum that people had great success shocking these screws loose. I took a hammer and snug fitting bit and smacked each screw head until my ears bled them tried to loosten each. Worked pretty well! Each screw took 20-30 smackaroos.

Food for thought… hammers fix everything?

Where that socket really shines is you can shock it into the hardware by tapping it with a brass hammer prior to slapping it with a 3/8 adapter in a 1/4” impact or if you have a designated 3/8 impact, it makes short work of the hardware never had issues after picking up that socket. Give it a squirt of penetrating oil prior to the tapping and they’ll come out easy squeeze.