80 Series charging travel trailer AGM batteries (1 Viewer)

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All the voltages I listed were at idle, sorry I didn't specify that. I checked at 1500RPM but it didn't change enough to bother listing separately.

The dash lights started staying on after I put in an aftermarket Terrain Tamer alt. This thread has some conversation about how this circuit actually works:
Help with Voltage Light after alt upgrade - https://forum.ih8mud.com/threads/help-with-voltage-light-after-alt-upgrade.455607/#post-6327069
When the key is turned on the light comes on because battery voltage is going through the light circuit to ground through the regulator and alternator. As the alternator spins up and produces voltage the light dims and goes out as there is now no ground through the regulator.
Another post says:
I change from the old external regulator type alternator to a new 100Amp internal regulated type, my light would stay on until I revved the engine to 2500 rpm and then would go out and stay out. I fixed the problem by putting a higher wattage bulb in the warning light

Basically a higher wattage bulb = more resistance.....V=IR, so lower voltage to kickoff the light. An LED is WAY less resistance than stock bulb so therefore requires a higher voltage output from the alt before the regulator grounds out and kills the light. But maybe this LED is screwing with the charge voltage aspect of the circuit as well? I'm not sure how the regulator in there really works.
 
I need a new battery and Advanced Auto has recommended 2: DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 35, 650 CCA OR DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA.

I have a 1997 Land Cruiser U.S. model stock.

Please advise.

Thank you.
 
I need a new battery and Advanced Auto has recommended 2: DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 35, 650 CCA OR DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA.

I have a 1997 Land Cruiser U.S. model stock.

Please advise.

Thank you.

What do you need out of it? If you aren't running a fridge or other extra loads, you might be able to save money and use a normal battery. I think FJZ80s came with either a 24F or 27F sized battery when new. I went with an X2 Power 27F battery (Northstar), but wow they've become expensive: X2Power Premium AGM 930CCA BCI Group 27F Car and Truck Battery - SLI27FAGMDP - https://www.batteriesplus.com/productdetails/battery/car-and-truck/lexus/lx450/1997/l6-4.5l-625cca/sli27fagmdp

I have a fridge that is always on and I sometimes charge my ebike off of the car as well. I also keep my Landcruiser in the garage on a CTEK AGM trickle charger, so it is getting the correct voltage most of the time. I also have a small, 50AH LiFePO4 battery in the second battery box that charges from the starting battery using a DC-DC charger or 100w solar panel. I can run the fridge and other things off either battery.
 
I'd say that whichever you do with your Cruiser battery, do the same with your trailer.... just for simplification...
 
I need a new battery and Advanced Auto has recommended 2: DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 35, 650 CCA OR DieHard Platinum AGM Battery, Group Size 24F, 710 CCA.

I have a 1997 Land Cruiser U.S. model stock.

Please advise.

Thank you.
70kmi after all this time?
The 24 is good for you.

I ran a 24F and 27 deep cycle in tandem using only equalize wiring.
It was fine. 👍
 
So is it me or does Mike at Ob have something adverse. My alt output is 14.7 on a stock setup 96 1fzfe. Agm in the start position only current accessory is m12000. I’m going to be adding a second battery fridge and radios. Maybe some lights. Do I need this diode upgrade? I have one not yet installed. Like which way does it face? Or how do I figure it out for correct direction ?
Thanks
Electrical one banana
 
Couldn't get the AutoZone AGM batteries to last longer than a year in a VW TDI, 6 months were typical and always lost a cell or two. My Sears Platinum AGM's are getting weak and are over 10yrs old in my FJ80, more than likely will replace them with a pair of flooded batteries when they stop cranking.
 
did he just cram a 1A diode mini fuse into a standard fuse atc/ato fuse slot?
 
Here's how i am set up in my 1994 HDJ81.
I have removed all the 24v starting system. This means changing to a 12v starter and some minor wiring. This gives you two battery spots.
The LH (US driver side) is the start battery. I'm running a marine starting battery here (for some odd reason marine batteries are cheaper here).
The RH (US passenger) is house battery. This is a Lead acid deep cycle battery, and then cabling is run to the rear for fridge and trailer connection. It's charged by a dc-dc charger which also has a solar input from a panel on the roof.

Alternator is a 140 amp standard alternator - these are readily available in NZ and Australia, and works great on both batteries.
 
found on the 100 series forum i like this low profile design i just don't like how the wire is coming off the side
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im thinking ill do a internal version take apart a fuse tap and wire in series.

from this
1688594526894.png


to this

2ECAB23F-1232-469D-A598-4132B56B66FA.jpeg

B5BC4FA7-867D-4F82-9229-B63444F760E3.jpeg
 
Also if it hasn't been said already AGM batteries aren't huge fans of hot temperatures. A normal Lead acid battery is perfectly fine for starting your truck.
 
Also if it hasn't been said already AGM batteries aren't huge fans of hot temperatures. A normal Lead acid battery is perfectly fine for starting your truck.
How hot is too hot for AGM?

I always wonder why I couldn’t find any AGM batteries in south east Asia
 
How hot is too hot for AGM?

I always wonder why I couldn’t find any AGM batteries in south east Asia

A lot cooler than you'd think, for example Victron rates their AGMs as only lasting 2 years at temperatures north of 40c / 104f:
Gel and AGM batteries maximum ambient temperature - Victron Community - https://community.victronenergy.com/questions/40593/gel-and-agm-batteries-maximum-ambient-temperature.html

Now granted an engine bay doesn't see high temperatures all the time (eg not running) but i'd say even a sunny day would push temps over that.

My view is that a standard oldschool lead acid battery is more than enough for starting duty on HDJs. I'm having a really good run using a deep cycle, lead acid battery as my auxilary. It is looked after by a newish alternator and a decent DC-DC charger.

this one Product - Century Batteries - https://www.centurybatteries.co.nz/resources/battery-finder/product/battery/27dcmf/info
 
Sorry to bring this back from the dead...

There was discussion earlier is this thread about doing a 1A Diode in place of the 7.5A fuse for the alternator to increase the ability of your factory alternator.

I just ran a 2 gauge wire from the positive side of the starting battery to the alternator. I checked voltage with the LC running. The starting battery was just over 14 volts, the house battery was 12.7 with out the Blue Sea ML-ACR on, with the ML-ACR on it was over 13 volts. So for now I will go with this as I am happy with the results and the LC idles smoother as well.
 

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