I’ve never noticed that before, but can’t unsee it now!
$80/liter transfer case oil (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter bloc
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Amsoil operates like a pyramid scheme. Always seemed weird to me.
Quick report… Red Line 75W gear oil working great. Drove 1100 miles from CO to our cabin in ID. Did some light wheeling.
I do think Amsoil’s stuff is really good, just odd how they do business.
I do think Amsoil’s stuff is really good, just odd how they do business.
I need to change tcase and diffs 09 LX. Is the 75w redline, suitable for both?
TLC2013
SILVER Star
I use Redline 75-90 for the Diffs and Ravenol 75w for the T-case. I plan on switching over to the Redline 75w when I service the T-case next time. The Ravenol has performed well and is synthetic like Redline fluids so there probably isn’t much difference between the two. Would be great to see a lab report breaking down the differences between these two, not sure if one is better then the other.
Check bobistheoilguy.com, I'm pretty sure there are VOAs for those. The issue I have is that I can't really tell what elements actually matter, so unless they're identical I can't really say which is better or worse. That said you could probably run used vegetable oil or my grandmother's Thanksgiving turkey gravy in a factor transfer case and diffs and it would work fine... they're not incredibly complicated, you just need something in there that helps lubricate and transfer heat.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #208
Your 09 should be good with 75w-90 in the transfer case.. I think it was 2010 when the mystery part got added and toyota started specifying straight 75w in the tcase.
Same 75w-90 is great in the diffs.
Don’t run straight 75w in the diffs.. it’ll be thinner than toyota felt necessary to specify once it gets hot, which is the majority of your time driving.
TLC2013
SILVER Star
Cool good to know, I’ll dig around and see if there are any lab reports over there.
Resurrection:
Blauparts.com sells 2 "suitable" fluids for the Toyota 08885-81080
Ravenol - https://www.blauparts.com/ravenol-manual-transmission-fluid-mtf-3-75w-1l.html
"The Ravenol Fully Synthetic Gear Oil MTF-3 75W 1 Liter is a high performance replacement equivalent to the original Toyota Lexus transfer case fluid specs and part numbers 08885-81080 US spec and 08885-81081 Euro spec. Ravenol is a german brand so they reference all the european part number 08885-81081which is the same as the usa number 08885-8108. Most important is the 75w viscosity. Ravenol uses a PAO group 4, so a super high quality fully synthetic. We are not sure what the genuine toyota transfer case fluid is made from."
Eurol - https://www.blauparts.com/75w-gl4-synthetic-gear-oil-eurol-mtf-1-liter.html
"the Eurol fluid is a little less expensive due to the cost of importing from Europe is a little less than Ravenol. The Eurol is synthetic based on a ratio of group 3 and 4 mixed synthetics."
They are both are in accordance with Toyota transfer case fluid lubrication parameters, however the Ravenol is a true fully synthetic fluid and the Eurol is synthetic based on a ratio of group 3 and 4 mixed synthetics. If the cost doesn't effect you then the Ravenol would be a good fit. But again both would get you to the next fluid change interval and offer the intended protection and performance.
Blauparts.com sells 2 "suitable" fluids for the Toyota 08885-81080
Ravenol - https://www.blauparts.com/ravenol-manual-transmission-fluid-mtf-3-75w-1l.html
"The Ravenol Fully Synthetic Gear Oil MTF-3 75W 1 Liter is a high performance replacement equivalent to the original Toyota Lexus transfer case fluid specs and part numbers 08885-81080 US spec and 08885-81081 Euro spec. Ravenol is a german brand so they reference all the european part number 08885-81081which is the same as the usa number 08885-8108. Most important is the 75w viscosity. Ravenol uses a PAO group 4, so a super high quality fully synthetic. We are not sure what the genuine toyota transfer case fluid is made from."
Eurol - https://www.blauparts.com/75w-gl4-synthetic-gear-oil-eurol-mtf-1-liter.html
"the Eurol fluid is a little less expensive due to the cost of importing from Europe is a little less than Ravenol. The Eurol is synthetic based on a ratio of group 3 and 4 mixed synthetics."
They are both are in accordance with Toyota transfer case fluid lubrication parameters, however the Ravenol is a true fully synthetic fluid and the Eurol is synthetic based on a ratio of group 3 and 4 mixed synthetics. If the cost doesn't effect you then the Ravenol would be a good fit. But again both would get you to the next fluid change interval and offer the intended protection and performance.
I spend around $50 for 2 quarts of Ravenol shipped to Idaho...far cheaper than buying from my local dealer, even with what they call a "discount"
Also, Ravenol comes in a plastic bottle with a nozzle you pull out...no spills.
Also, Ravenol comes in a plastic bottle with a nozzle you pull out...no spills.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #212
Good stuff @Clickws
Were the quotes their response directly to questions you asked? or just pre-packaged info for toyota compatibility?
I will say twice now I've had supply problems though, so I'd advise ordering early to have some sit on the shelf for when it's needed later.
Were the quotes their response directly to questions you asked? or just pre-packaged info for toyota compatibility?
I'm becoming a big fan of Ravenol's stuff, including their thinking ahead on actually installing the stuff.I spend around $50 for 2 quarts of Ravenol shipped to Idaho...far cheaper than buying from my local dealer, even with what they call a "discount"
Also, Ravenol comes in a plastic bottle with a nozzle you pull out...no spills.
I will say twice now I've had supply problems though, so I'd advise ordering early to have some sit on the shelf for when it's needed later.
I ran 75W-90 for 30k miles. Ran just fine, no difference in fuel economy or noise or center diff locking or handling, as far as I could tell. I’ve used Ravenol 75W MTF for the last couple changes and been happy with it, and it’s reasonable cost compared to the Toyota LF, but if you can’t source it easily I wouldn’t hesitate to run 75W-90 in it.
bloc
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- Thread starter
- #215
Are they going to pay the $3400 retail price to replace yours if it turns out there is something specific about the case that needs it?
There was a part number change that coincided with the change in specified fluid. Until someone details what that change entails, it seems like a pretty small investment to run the fluid that toyota specifies, considering how expensive having to replace the case could be one day.
Before running the Ravenol which seems like a more standard fluid, one of my initial questions in starting this thread was why the dark color and odd smell? Very different than any other fluid I had run before.. what is responsible for these characteristics, and why did toyota feel those additives were necessary?
If you are only doing 100k, probably won't matter. I plan to do 4x that.
This was from Blauparts which has to be the same folks at Ravenol America since they have same address in WI. Might be a “separate entity” but same group.
IIRC the transfer case part number change for 2013+ was because Toyota changed manufacturers. I can’t recall what 2008-2012 used but the 2013+ is Borg Warner. So yes there are quite likely differences even though the overall design is the same.
FWIW many dealerships just use bulk 75W-85 or 75W-90 in the diffs and transfer case. Obviously the dealer is in the business of selling you new vehicles and repairs, so take that for what you will, but I’m inclined to believe it doesn’t significantly matter and is why I’ll use Ravenol or whatever else is close… similar to how we’ll argue about the best 0W-20 or running 5W-30, it’s far more important to do regular clean fluid exchanges with something meeting the overall GL/API levels than necessarily sourcing the precise fluid. My $0.02 anyway, which with inflation isn’t even worth that anymore.
bloc
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #220
Mityvac, the one resembling a giant syringe.
the fluid and part number switch was in 2010 though. And it’s been a couple years but I remember doing a deep dive and there being additional parts inside the 10+ case. Or vise versa.
For the record I agree with you.. we are extremely unlikely to kill a later model case with the early fluid, provided it stays fresh, but when comparing the cost of the correct fluid to a case repair it’s negligible, especially given the ravenol and other options available now.
Short of needing to change fluid *now* due to contamination or something and only having access to 75w-90 I don’t see why someone doesn’t put the specified stuff in there.. IMO an additional $30 just doesn’t seem like a huge outlay when we don’t know what the true reasons for the new spec are.
In all likelihood we are tossing money into the drain pan with 30k changes anyway. We’d need to do fluid analysis to optimize the fluid life there, but it’s safer to just keep fresh stuff in there on schedule.
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