8.2" Rear Axle Upgrade (1 Viewer)

abuck99

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There is another option to consider if buying a new housing vs a junkyard pull. Before I sold my 07 FJ, I had done a fair amount of research on the 8.2 upgrade. We know that there are a couple of sources for new axle housings, either bare or pre built. I had read somewhere that the Australian 8.2 rear axle hosing was designed for more severe duty; it's reinforced with additional stiffening sections on either side of the diff from the factory (not available in North America). It took me a searching a bit, but after finding the model designator for Ausse spec FJC
FJ CRUISERGSJ15R-GKASKQGSJ1511.2010 - 08.2016ATM,MTM: AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION;
, I did a little search on partsouq and found availability. The axle housing it self is about $568 the freight quote on the shopping tool is $302 to ATL for example. Import duty and taxes into the US are free below $800, so you'll prob pay a little import duty since its just over the De Minimis CIF amount but you can research, enquire and confirm. The HTS Code range is 8708.50.50-65 depending on how you can get it classified.( If you planned to order other parts, I would do a separate order to keep the duty rate down.)

I've only researched this not actually carried it out, but for the price of the housing + shipping its worth looking into; that is if you want the benefit of the extra heavy duty housing.

Here's the part #4211060B31 and pictures: 4211060B31 Toyota HOUSING ASSY, REAR AXLE, Price: 567.62$, Weight: 38.9kg - PartSouq - Auto Parts Around the World PartSouq Auto Parts Around the World


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My friend has this Aus 8.2 and you are correct there are some extra gussets A rear diff skid ( if you run one also needs to be modded to work on it and i know she had to do something to here elocker. it is parked next to mine rt now so i will ask her
 
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BMThiker

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@92RedToy
Did you have to change the rotor size when you did this installation?
Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
 
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@92RedToy

Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
What size rotors are you going to use?
 
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@92RedToy

Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
Are you going w/ different rotors simply because your gonna use different hub bearings that are bigger or is the axle shaft flange to large?
 

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The only difference between the pre-2010 and 2010+ axles is a slightly larger (like 1mm) diameter on the outer hub. In fact you can almost put an older rotor on it, but it only seats about 1/4" before you realize there is a clearance issue. Why Toyota decided to do this is frustrating. The overall rotor diameter doesn't change, just the inner diameter where it fits over the hub circumference. You can fit a 2010+ rotor on a 2007-2009 hub, but it won't be "hub centric" any more, and you will probably feel vibrations due to an imbalance of weight.
 
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Awesome thread! The only other person I've seen who upgraded their rear diff on an earlier model FJ was DebFJVT on the FJCruiserForums. And she had her rear diff sent in from Australia! Pretty awesome upgrade, especially since those rear axles had welded on structural supports from the factory for the blokes down-under. Glad your experience was a success!
 

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So my gears never really set up like I wanted and I did the setup myself. There not showing abnormal wear and gear mesh looks fine, backlash is holding within spec, just noisy as crap. And I've been nervous not having a spare on the shelf - most sources say they are 2-4 weeks out on 8.2" turn arounds.

I acquired a spare 3rd member from a junkyard, drove it to a local shop to rebuild with new 4.56 gears and full install kit with solid spacer. I picked up the rebuilt 3rd on Saturday. The plan was to finish the swap on Sunday.

But it turns out he didn't properly install the locking collar. That's the piece that the e-locker shift fork slides in and out of the carrier to lock-up the spider gears. It has fine splines on the outside that engage the ring gear and inside it has coarse spline that locks it up. This was installed 1 fine spline tooth off, which is 1/2 a coarse tooth off inside, so the locking collar was stuck in the "open" mode and would never lock up. Glad I found this before I stabbed it back in the housing. As I recall the FSM recommends actually locking your diff before servicing it. The reason is that if you rebuild your 3rd and make sure the locking collar is in the locked position, you won't have this issue. I get lazy and just leave it unlocked and make sure it articulates as it should.

The downside was I had already torn down the entire axle before I noticed this issue with the 3rd. Ended up throwing all my junk back together and driving the bad 3rd back to his shop Sunday afternoon. He got it clocked properly and reset the preload/backlash while I waited, but it was too late in the day to attempt to finish the install.

Got to pick up some more 90wt before I dig back into it. Took some pictures of yesterday's experience. I plan to knock it out in less than 2.5 hours. Only took me about 70 minutes to get to the stage seen in 3rd picture.
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IMG_5481.JPG


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BMThiker

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Dropped the new chunk in last night. 3 hours from wheels up to wheels down. Everything went smooth and gears sound fine. I'm taking it easy the next couple weeks to break the gears in properly. I've got a 14 mile commute to and from work on surface streets, running stop & go in the 35-45 mph range. So it's just the right amount of time to warm them up and park it and let them cool. Wash, rinse, repeat...


Waiting for FIPG to setup
19E016FB-3CF1-4CD0-BDA3-488374791060.jpeg


Making sure the pinion on the e-locker is in the open position
A3A12A3A-BBF2-47D4-BCFA-50D696281B8A.jpeg


At the 2-1/2 hr mark. All that's left is the oil refill, wheels back on and GoJo time.
93989BBA-DA00-4CEF-AD7E-593677907120.jpeg
 

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@92RedToy

Technically no, because I used my former axle shaft assemblies. But when I do use the axle shafts that came with it (and I will, once I've rebuilt the hub bearings), I will have to install the slightly different rotors from a 2010+ FJC.

I didn't use the new axles right away because I didn't know the history (original or rebuilt hubs?) and I had recently rebuilt the hubs in my old axles.
I'm on deck to rebuild the rear hubs/axle assemblies that came with my 8.2" axle housing. They've been collecting dust at the garage and now one of my current bearings is complaining. I threw a code for interference with wheel speed sensor and inspected it last weekend. Something (dust cover?) on the tone ring has separated from the bearing face, so wonky signal, so no ABS, so no A-Trac, etc.

Pricing out the parts list now and will dig in once I have everything on hand. The list below is valid for all years of FJC, 8" or 8.2" differential alike.

HUB & BEARING ASSY, REAR AXLE, LH 42460-60010
HUB & BEARING ASSY, REAR AXLE, RH 42450-60050
GASKET, BRAKE DRUM OIL DEFLECTOR 42443-60010 (2X)
DEFLECTOR, BRAKE DRUM OIL 42441-60060 (2X)
RETAINER, REAR AXLE BEARING, INNER 42423-60050 (2X)
RING, O 90301-83002 (2X)
SEAL, OIL (FOR REAR AXLE SHAFT RH) 90310-58003 (2X)
WASHER 90208-44001 (2X)
RING, SNAP 90520-41019 (2X)
BOLT, HUB (lugs) 90942-02079 (12X)


NOTE: Only the axle shafts are different from 2007-2009 to 2010+
42311-60242 (2010+)
42311-60240 (2007-2009)

I knew this day was coming, so I bought a new tool kit to make it go a little easier.
 

BMThiker

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Some dealerships have parts on deep discount and free shipping right now. I order the following from Toyota Parts and Accessories Online - Serra Toyota of Decatur in Decatur, AL - https://parts.toyotaofdecatur.com/

Total was $620 shipped!

RETAINER $15.48 Qty: 2 42423-60050

BRAKE DUST SHIELD (LEFT, RIGHT) $15.25 Qty: 2 42441-60060

GASKET $1.51 Qty: 2 42443-60010

DRIVE AXLE SHAFT BEARING (RIGHT, REAR) $246.55 Qty: 1 42450-60050

DRIVE AXLE SHAFT BEARING (LEFT, REAR) $246.55 Qty: 1 42460-60010

WASHER $2.93 Qty: 2 90208-44001

DRIVE AXLE SHAFT SEAL (LEFT, RIGHT, REAR) $4.94 Qty: 2 90310-58003

RING $1.80 Qty: 2 90520-41019

BOLT $3.67 Qty: 12 90942-02079
 
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fjc-man

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Some dealerships have parts on deep discount and free shipping right now. I order the following from Toyota Parts and Accessories Online - Serra Toyota of Decatur in Decatur, AL - https://parts.toyotaofdecatur.com/

Total was $620 shipped!

RETAINER $15.48 Qty: 2 42423-60050

BRAKE DUST SHIELD (LEFT, RIGHT) $15.25 Qty: 2 42441-60060

GASKET $1.51 Qty: 2 42443-60010

DRIVE AXLE SHAFT BEARING (RIGHT, REAR) $246.55 Qty: 1 42450-60050

DRIVE AXLE SHAFT BEARING (LEFT, REAR) $246.55 Qty: 1 42460-60010

WASHER $2.93 Qty: 2 90208-44001

DRIVE AXLE SHAFT SEAL (LEFT, RIGHT, REAR) $4.94 Qty: 2 90310-58003

RING $1.80 Qty: 2 90520-41019

BOLT $3.67 Qty: 12 90942-02079
I’m surprised you didn’t get the bearings from partsouq. Even with shipping, could have saved a 100 bucks.
 

BMThiker

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I’m surprised you didn’t get the bearings from partsouq. Even with shipping, could have saved a 100 bucks.
Wow, didn't even think to check with them. $180 vs $245. And the Koyo assemblies are $75!
 

abuck99

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Drove right past ya last night on 85N- you were exiting Clairmont- can’t miss those red wheels👍😎
 

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When I installed this axle housing I set aside the axle assemblies and installed my 2007 axle assemblies. I did this purely because I knew the maintenance record of my axles/bearings. Fast forward to earlier this summer and I was feeling like the 2007 bearings were starting to make noise and maintenance would be on deck soon. I ordered all my parts and even ordered a new SST from a guy on Ebay to make removal and installation of the bearing assemblies easier. The plan was to grab the 2012 axle assemblies that had been gathering dust and rebuild them, so that I didn't have any significant downtime on my current axle setup. I did that earlier this summer and didn't realize there might be a problem with those axles. I put new brake pads on the rear axle about a month later and that's when things started to go sideways. For some reason the little spring clips that hold the ears of the pads kept backing out. I thought maybe I had warped rotors so I replaced them. Spring clips still kept backing out.

Finally got it up on a lift and took the wheels off and got them spinning in low gear. Much to my dismay, I found the axle flanges on both sides were bent. It never occured to me when I rebuilt those axles that they were bent. I should have checked them before rebuilding, but here I am. I had already broken down the old 2007 axle assemblies, but had not ordered another set of bearings and retainers, so they sit partially unassembled and of no immediate use to me. Luckily, my friend had his old GX axle assemblies sitting at the garage and offered to let me use them in the short term. He knew we were heading out for an event this week and there wasn't enough time to order the bearings and get them assembled before we depart on Wednesday. Swapping out the assemblies was relatively quick and I had to find my old 2007 rotors to fit these older hubs. The 2010+ hubs are about 0.7mm bigger so they have different rotors to match the hubcentric mount.
B927DCDE-5A65-4F9A-86C7-70DAC7B97DAE.jpeg
 
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It never occurred to me when I rebuilt those axles that they were bent.
Its strange they both were bent. Usually only see one bent from a pair due to side impact or something. More amazing that the housing they came out of is straight, every 8in I've pulled parts from had a bent housing if a flange was bent. Thicker material on the 8.2 must actually be a thing.

Great info on the 8.2 though!
 

BMThiker

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Its strange they both were bent. Usually only see one bent from a pair due to side impact or something. More amazing that the housing they came out of is straight, every 8in I've pulled parts from had a bent housing if a flange was bent. Thicker material on the 8.2 must actually be a thing.

Great info on the 8.2 though!
Honestly, it could have been the freight company that damaged it en-route. It was simply strapped to a pallet and not very well protected.
 

abuck99

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Honestly, it could have been the freight company that damaged it en-route. It was simply strapped to a pallet and not very well protected.
I was wondering how that might have happened- truck was probably on a lift and they made quick work to cut the axle off and it dropped it on the floor below-
 
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