79 FJ40 Ignition Stuck in Accessory Mode (1 Viewer)

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Jun 25, 2018
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Location
Oklahoma
I've been around the forum for quite a while, but haven't posted until now.

Question -
The ignition switch on my 79 FJ40 appears to be stuck in the accessory mode (the HVAC fan blows, etc.) and will not turn to the off position, or advance to the starting position - regardless of the key position. I drive the 40 nearly every day and was at the gas station and had just refueled it (that's where it is right now BTW...) and when I went start it, the starter motor bumped briefly and then wouldn't complete the start and ended up stuck the on/accessory mode.

So far, I have removed the starter switch from the steering column and shot electrical contact cleaner into it. That didn't change anything. So, I disconnected the battery and came to the house to post this question.

Any ideas about what I can try next would sure be appreciated.

Thanks,
Brad
 
Push starting it won't work because the ignition switch is stuck in accessory mode (ie not full on). Our neighbor has a car trailer but I'd sure love to fix it and drive it home.

If there's something easy to try, I'd like to try that first.

FWIW I know the people who own the gas station, so it's safe for a few hours while I look for possible fixes.
 
Push starting it won't work because the ignition switch is stuck in accessory mode (ie not full on). Our neighbor has a car trailer but I'd sure love to fix it and drive it home.

If there's something easy to try, I'd like to try that first.

FWIW I know the people who own the gas station, so it's safe for a few hours while I look for possible fixes.
Sorry, probably no real help here, but out of desperation you may want to try squirting in some graphite powder and jiggling the key back and forth. It may be that the key is just getting hung up inside the lock mechanism. Hillman 3 g Powdered Graphite Lubricant-703185 - The Home Depot - https://www.homedepot.com/p/Hillman-3-g-Powdered-Graphite-Lubricant-703185/100137063.
Good luck.
 
Hotwire the ignition either at the coil or fuse box with a length of wire and alligator clips. Jump the starter with a bit of metal (i use a 17mm end wrench)
 
I don't know about 79's, but earlier 40's you could remove the clam shell then remove the switch from the column and use a screw driver. Pighead's suggestion might be easier.

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Two jumper wires. One to the + side of the ignition coil and second one clipped to the solenoid ( terminal for ignition switch wire ) leave the the coil one to battery positive in place till you get home, the second jumper - touch it to the positive post to get it to crank over. Once started, remove starter jumper, once home, disconnect coil jumper to stop engine.
 
Thank you everyone! I’m gonna take the lazy man’s approach and get the car trailer, my neighbor is on his way over with it right now. Would still appreciate any other ideas about what might’ve caused this how to fix it.
 
X2 to what @pb4ugo stated above, very easy to start and run that way, as there is no steering lock, I did that in a 60 that had no key but needed to disable the steering lock to drive it.

the ignition switch, key tumbler, does not directly go to the plastic part, there is a connection between those 2 pieces, something broke between the key and the plastic part
 
Turns out it was a corroded ground-side battery cable.

Here's the tricky part of it:
The corrosion wasn't visible at all until I peeled the black plastic/rubber wire cover back from the connector about 1/2". At initial glance the cable looked normal. No corrosion at all on the battery terminals. ALL of the corrosion was inside the wire cover. Replaced the cable and all is well.

Lesson learned: A poorly grounded cable can cause a failure that can disguise itself as a problem with the starter switch - because the switch can act like it's in accessory mode (AC, Radio, etc. will operate), even though the key is in the off position and/or removed.
 
Turns out it was a corroded ground-side battery cable.

Here's the tricky part of it:
The corrosion wasn't visible at all until I peeled the black plastic/rubber wire cover back from the connector about 1/2". At initial glance the cable looked normal. No corrosion at all on the battery terminals. ALL of the corrosion was inside the wire cover. Replaced the cable and all is well.

Lesson learned: A poorly grounded cable can cause a failure that can disguise itself as a problem with the starter switch - because the switch can act like it's in accessory mode (AC, Radio, etc. will operate), even though the key is in the off position and/or removed.
That is great news. Aside from the inconvenience of getting stranded near your house; it was a cheap easy fix. All things considered, a win.
 

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