78 Troopy Rear Wheel Carrier (2 Viewers)

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Apr 9, 2018
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Location
Dubai, UAE
Has anyone seen a swing out rear wheel carrier that's body mounted for the Troopy, rather than bumper based, a'la LC100/200 (here in the Middle East, at least)?

I'm trying to keep weight down in my build and if I can avoid a heavy rear metal bumper, I'd like to.

I understand there would need to be substantial bracing/reinforcement in the mounting on to the body, so I would need to see if/what benefits are there for weight.

Image for reference (from Yotatech - 4runner tire carrier? - YotaTech Forums)

116700d1501263872-4runner-tire-carrier-6556cf47818ea442217ee86d1c0409d3_zps7pleb6vd.jpg
 
I worry about the weight of the wheel and tyre beyond standard steels - looking at Braid alloy and KO2 or KM3. That then puts stress on the door hinges, the door metal, plus the need to extend the bracket to take a wider wheel.
 
If you don't need the rear protection of a heavy bumper, it is an option. I prefer the body mount for various reasons. Ideally, the mounts should wrap the corner, like the stock units. The vertical spread on the 90 - 92 USA 4-Runner carrier corner mounts is too small for the tail light on the 70, it will need to be widened. An 80 Series carrier might be a better fit and be available in your neck of the woods. I have a couple of the 4-Runner units here, with some of the internal bracing, if you would like a look? Modding the corners mounts and building the bracing should be on the simpler side of things, as the 70 is has very few curves.
 
Thanks Brian.

The 4Runner image was just for reference. I'd likely get something fabricated locally, but wondered if anyone had seen one "off the shelf", or knew any issues with fitting them.

I guess lots of thought will need to go in to the design to ensure it clears the tail lights.
 
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How about the OEM door mounted wheel carrier?

The original Toyota factory install of the spare tire carrier on the rear door did not physically connect to the outer door skin at all. It consists of an internal brace in the door that was spot welded around the perimeter and to the inside skin of the door, thus distributing the load. When the door is closed, the load is further distributed onto the latches. Factory bracing can't possibly crack the outer door skin, since it's not attached to it.

OTOH, if you just buy a factory spare carrier, drill holes in your door, and mount it to the door skin, it will ultimately and inexorably fail.

Re: weight, the stock steel wheels are pretty heavy, so getting an alloy rim would be lighter. Larger tires might be heavier, but overall, it would probably be a wash.
 
TonyP: Just to clarify, I was, like you, advocating FOR the factory spare tire install. It's a well engineered solution that gets a bum rap because people lump it together with the "just bolt the carrier through the door" jobs. By the time you figure how distributed the weight is with the factory setup, the difference between tire sizes or wheel types is negligible for any given possible failure point. That said, if the OP doesn't think it will suit his needs, that's certainly valid, and he's better off with something else.
 
76s can carry an 8" OEM aluminum wheel with 285 KO2s. Is the Braid wheel that much heavier?
 
Everyone worries about the stress on the hinges when the conversation turns to rear mounted tires however the folks at Toyota were pretty sharp. When the rear door is shut, which it is 95% of the time, the rear tire weight is pretty much distributed around the whole perimeter of the door. The top and bottom strikers as well as the framework of the other rear door play a role in supporting the doors weight. With reasonable care, the door assembly should be good to go for a long time.
 
The original Toyota factory install of the spare tire carrier on the rear door did not physically connect to the outer door skin at all. It consists of an internal brace in the door that was spot welded around the perimeter and to the inside skin of the door, thus distributing the load. When the door is closed, the load is further distributed onto the latches. Factory bracing can't possibly crack the outer door skin, since it's not attached to it.

OTOH, if you just buy a factory spare carrier, drill holes in your door, and mount it to the door skin, it will ultimately and inexorably fail.

Re: weight, the stock steel wheels are pretty heavy, so getting an alloy rim would be lighter. Larger tires might be heavier, but overall, it would probably be a wash.

I was using simplify terms. But correct.

TonyP: Just to clarify, I was, like you, advocating FOR the factory spare tire install. It's a well engineered solution that gets a bum rap because people lump it together with the "just bolt the carrier through the door" jobs. By the time you figure how distributed the weight is with the factory setup, the difference between tire sizes or wheel types is negligible for any given possible failure point. That said, if the OP doesn't think it will suit his needs, that's certainly valid, and he's better off with something else.

Everyone worries about the stress on the hinges when the conversation turns to rear mounted tires however the folks at Toyota were pretty sharp. When the rear door is shut, which it is 95% of the time, the rear tire weight is pretty much distributed around the whole perimeter of the door. The top and bottom strikers as well as the framework of the other rear door play a role in supporting the doors weight. With reasonable care, the door assembly should be good to go for a long time.

Good points from people with more experience and knowledge than me - just what I was looking for.

It was more hinges that I was worries about, plus the stress put on the carrier on long, bumpy roads.

I haven't got the 78 yet but still going through the final planning stages so that when it drops, I'm ready to build what's needed and pump the cash from the unnecessary items (such as metal rear bumpers) in to something where it's better to spend (battery needs for off-grid).
 
Good points from people with more experience and knowledge than me - just what I was looking for.

It was more hinges that I was worries about, plus the stress put on the carrier on long, bumpy roads.

I haven't got the 78 yet but still going through the final planning stages so that when it drops, I'm ready to build what's needed and pump the cash from the unnecessary items (such as metal rear bumpers) in to something where it's better to spend (battery needs for off-grid).

Hello,

As stated above, Toyota intended the stress to distribute around the door, thus sparing the hinges from fatigue. Wheel carrying doors are sturdier than they look.

Two additional things to consider.

Door strikers displace from their factory position with age and bumping. Rubber stoppers wear. As a result, a rattling sound appears. Sometimes it is enough with loosening the bolts, moving the strikers forward, tightening and checking for rattle. If the rattle persists after adjusting then the rubber stoppers need replacement.

upload_2018-8-25_17-31-36.png


It is also possible to drill a hole in the hinges, tap it and install a grease port. It helps to keep them pumped full of grease.







Juan
 
[Double post]
 
That's a good idea, especially in the desert.

Hello,

It also works when the small rear door has a ladder (either factory or aftermarket) attached to it.





Juan
 
Replying here instead of creating a new thread.

Any ideas on stopping the dragging that happens when I open the rear door with my spare on?

I have a steel wheel with a 33” tire, mounted on the factory spare wheel mount.

The fit is solid, but the drag I feel and the tiny drop it makes as I open the door completely is a smidgen concerning. Any thoughts to stop the drag is appreciated.

Ive considered small tires but that’s a whole diff convo and Ive looked into a rear bumper that has that swing out mount, buts its more effort in that Id like at the moment.
 

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