Glad to see you are back and moving forward. Can't wait to see the pics of you putting the new metal in.
Keep it up!
Brian
Keep it up!
Brian
78 FJ45 demo pics
- Thread starter Rhinoliner
- Start date
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Keep the pics coming, this is giving me the motivation I need to get started on my rig!
Adam
Adam
- Thread starter
- #43
Pressure Washing
This weekend I rolled the rig out of the garage and pressure washed it all. That was a very messy job. 28 year old grime can be pretty stubborn. That should make taking the rest of it apart much more pleasant.
Then, after I got done with that, I rolled the chassis back into the garage and spent a couple of hours cleaning up the mess that I had made in the driveway.
This weekend I rolled the rig out of the garage and pressure washed it all. That was a very messy job. 28 year old grime can be pretty stubborn. That should make taking the rest of it apart much more pleasant.
Then, after I got done with that, I rolled the chassis back into the garage and spent a couple of hours cleaning up the mess that I had made in the driveway.
- Thread starter
- #44
Before picture of the trans for reference........
- Thread starter
- #45
Well, I'd like to pull the engine, trans and tcase out but I'm missing the front engine removal bracket. Anyone have an extra one for sale cheap???? I also am missing one of the bolts that mount it to the head. If you have one for sale please send me an email with price.
I was planning to use a different method to pull it but I would need some longer bolts and am having trouble finding them in this relatively small town where I live.
Anybody ever pull one of these engine/trans/tcase combos without the front bracket I am missing. If so, how did you do it?
I was planning to use a different method to pull it but I would need some longer bolts and am having trouble finding them in this relatively small town where I live.
Anybody ever pull one of these engine/trans/tcase combos without the front bracket I am missing. If so, how did you do it?
I wrap a chain around the combo between the oil pan and the bell housing. That combination is pretty much balanced when lifted in the middle. Since you have the body out of the way its even easier.
Nick
Nick
- Thread starter
- #47
The chain around the middle method worked like a champ.....thanks for the tip Nick.
It was a little heavy towards the front, and since I was working alone, I added the extra chain to the front engine mounts to keep it balanced.
I disconnected the fuel lines right after I snapped the 2nd picture and just yanked the whole assembly out.
I would still like to find a front bracket and bolt. If anyone has one for sale please let me know.
It was a little heavy towards the front, and since I was working alone, I added the extra chain to the front engine mounts to keep it balanced.
I disconnected the fuel lines right after I snapped the 2nd picture and just yanked the whole assembly out.
I would still like to find a front bracket and bolt. If anyone has one for sale please let me know.
Keep it up Rhino!
- Thread starter
- #49
Not much time to work on the Cruiser this weekend because I had to work on taxes - Yuk.
I did spend a little time taking all of the remaining small items off of the frame like brake lines, brackets, shocks, front drive shaft, rear sway bar and spare tire carrier. Basically I've got 8 bolts to remove and I will be down to the bare frame.
I did spend a little time taking all of the remaining small items off of the frame like brake lines, brackets, shocks, front drive shaft, rear sway bar and spare tire carrier. Basically I've got 8 bolts to remove and I will be down to the bare frame.
You probably aren't doing a concorse restoration, so it's hard to say what the original color might do to the resale value. The color you like will add the most enjoyment (personal value) for you.Rhinoliner said:
Have you considered Birf, or Teq for the Pup? EefJay?
The metal is 18 guage mild steel. He has a 10 foot long sheet metal brake in his shop said:
- Thread starter
- #53
Have you considered Birf, or Teq for the Pup? EefJay?
I was going to call him Cruiser, but decided since I talk about the Cruiser around the house so much he might get confused. So, we decided his name will be Laszlo. Saint László was an 11th-century king of Hungary, looked upon as the embodiment of Christian virtue and bravery. He is a Vizsla, or Hungarian Pointer, so that name works for me.
An Fj40 is 14 gauge, you may have to kind pick if you want it to line up flush inside or out. Then make a wide bead that you can grind and then use a little filler to get it really smooth. There is no shame in a touch of bondo. Less is more and it is not a replacement for body work but even the best of the best use a little here and there.
I'll definitely keep that in mind when I start on the body work aspects of this project. In the mean time, I have decided to focus on the mechanical and driveline stuff first. Mainly due to lack of space. I figure that once the driveline stuff is done I can move that out of the garage and it should be safe out in the elements and free up garage space to work on the body parts. I don't know if you can tell by my pics, but I am very cramped at this point.
I was going to call him Cruiser, but decided since I talk about the Cruiser around the house so much he might get confused. So, we decided his name will be Laszlo. Saint László was an 11th-century king of Hungary, looked upon as the embodiment of Christian virtue and bravery. He is a Vizsla, or Hungarian Pointer, so that name works for me.
An Fj40 is 14 gauge, you may have to kind pick if you want it to line up flush inside or out. Then make a wide bead that you can grind and then use a little filler to get it really smooth. There is no shame in a touch of bondo. Less is more and it is not a replacement for body work but even the best of the best use a little here and there.
I'll definitely keep that in mind when I start on the body work aspects of this project. In the mean time, I have decided to focus on the mechanical and driveline stuff first. Mainly due to lack of space. I figure that once the driveline stuff is done I can move that out of the garage and it should be safe out in the elements and free up garage space to work on the body parts. I don't know if you can tell by my pics, but I am very cramped at this point.
Rhino,
Any progress on your rig? Going thru 45lwb withdrawls....
I haven't been able to spend any time in the garage for quite a few weeks due to honey-do's and other projects.
Any progress on your rig? Going thru 45lwb withdrawls....
I haven't been able to spend any time in the garage for quite a few weeks due to honey-do's and other projects.
- Thread starter
- #56
No time to post up any update pics right now. I haven't had time to make much progress lately. I'm serving on a criminal jury right now and the trial should be over tomorrow, hopefully.
GUILTY! Now get back to your 45. LOL
- Thread starter
- #58
Need some help here guys. I want to put my 2F on my engine stand so I can replace all of the seals and gaskets and clean/paint it. But, I have tried every possible combination that I can think of to mate my engine stand head to the back of the block and none of them seem to work. What tricks or modifications have you done to get your motor on an engine stand? Any pics of how you did yours?
I searched the site yesterday for information about this and didn't come up with anything.
Thanks,
Marvin
I searched the site yesterday for information about this and didn't come up with anything.
Thanks,
Marvin
Did an old Chevy I6 like the Cruiser motors by putting the bell housing back on the motor then bolting the stand to that. I'll admit I wasn't too comfortable with it but it worked out fine. PM FJ40Jim and see if he will post up a picture of one of his motors on a stand...
Looking again at your pictures you need to get some longer bolts that match the thread of the bell housing bolts. Then you can bolt right to the block. I'm assuming you've used an engine stand before and know the basics of how a motor mounts to one... You might also have to drill a couple new holes on the arms of the engine stand head so everything fits up.
Nick
Looking again at your pictures you need to get some longer bolts that match the thread of the bell housing bolts. Then you can bolt right to the block. I'm assuming you've used an engine stand before and know the basics of how a motor mounts to one... You might also have to drill a couple new holes on the arms of the engine stand head so everything fits up.
Nick
- Thread starter
- #60
Yeah, I've used an engine stand quite a few times over the years, but mostly for small and big block Chevys. This stand is plenty strong, so I am not concerned about the weight of this engine.
I've tried every combination and position of the main plate to the back of the block (without using the L shaped legs) and it won't work without drilling new holes in the main plate. I just thought I would post up for some experience before I start drilling holes through that 1/2"+ thick main plate.
I will PM FJ40Jim and hope for some pics.
Thanks,
Marvin
I've tried every combination and position of the main plate to the back of the block (without using the L shaped legs) and it won't work without drilling new holes in the main plate. I just thought I would post up for some experience before I start drilling holes through that 1/2"+ thick main plate.
I will PM FJ40Jim and hope for some pics.
Thanks,
Marvin