Carb issue sounds like it cut be the fuel-cutoff/idle solenoid. Does it start and then die? Can you keep it running by keeping the revs high with the gas pedal?
'78 FJ40 Project - In the Blue Grass
- Thread starter Bluegrass40
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
@Honger. I have not driven it much at all in the last 4 mo. Should have it back up and running in about 2 wks.
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- #63
Axle rebuild continues on slowly.
I stripped and painted the parts over the last several days. They are waiting for new seals, bearings and lugs.
Here are some shots over the past few days of work.
Before sand blasting.
In process.
Hanging after prime and paint. Used duplicator semi gloss engine paint. We will see how it holds up.
I stripped and painted the parts over the last several days. They are waiting for new seals, bearings and lugs.
Here are some shots over the past few days of work.
Before sand blasting.
In process.
Hanging after prime and paint. Used duplicator semi gloss engine paint. We will see how it holds up.
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- #64
Getting things back together slowly.
Found that the bearing cup on one of my his was not right after pressing it in. I did some research and ended up using loctite 609. We will see how it holds up this is a perfect application for it so I should be ok.
Here is where I am with the reassembly.
I'm going to clean up the rotors and finish assembling the hubs tomorrow. The I need to rebuild the locking hubs.
Fun project, but ready to be done!
Found that the bearing cup on one of my his was not right after pressing it in. I did some research and ended up using loctite 609. We will see how it holds up this is a perfect application for it so I should be ok.
Here is where I am with the reassembly.
I'm going to clean up the rotors and finish assembling the hubs tomorrow. The I need to rebuild the locking hubs.
Fun project, but ready to be done!
Good job Bluegrass. Keep the progress pics coming.
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- #66
Finished up the knuckle and hub rebuild.
Wish I would have spent a bit more time on the hub dial but everything is in good working order and it was time to get it back on the road!
Wish I would have spent a bit more time on the hub dial but everything is in good working order and it was time to get it back on the road!
- Thread starter
- #67
I set the timing and tuned the weber 38. It's running pretty well. It's holding 20" of vac steady at idle (around 650 rpm). There is 1" of vac on the advance port. Not ideal but not too bad. I did verify that my vac and mechanical advance is working as well.
I cleaned and revamped the plugs. They were pretty black. I guess I was running a bit rich.
I also tuned the carb with the guidance of @webersarge! It's running pretty well considering what I have to work with. I'm pulling 20-21" of vac at idle (650-700 rpm). I do have 1" of vac on the advance port at idle. Need to spend a bit more time figuring that out. The rig is running better that I ever remember!
I cleaned and revamped the plugs. They were pretty black. I guess I was running a bit rich.
I also tuned the carb with the guidance of @webersarge! It's running pretty well considering what I have to work with. I'm pulling 20-21" of vac at idle (650-700 rpm). I do have 1" of vac on the advance port at idle. Need to spend a bit more time figuring that out. The rig is running better that I ever remember!
- Thread starter
- #68
I was driving today and noticed that I smelled oil during acceleration (pretty sure that it has been that way for a while.. Just have not dug into it bc I am usually busy trying to get the rig on the road). Oil pressure was good. I checked the pcv and it was rattling and seemed to be working properly.
I went back and looked at my compression numbers (from about a year ago). They were not too good.
1: 118
2: 120
3: 118
4: 112
5: 116
6: 120
Is the oil smell likely due to the compression numbers? What else should I check?
I went back and looked at my compression numbers (from about a year ago). They were not too good.
1: 118
2: 120
3: 118
4: 112
5: 116
6: 120
Is the oil smell likely due to the compression numbers? What else should I check?
Those compression numbers are not all that bad. They definitely are not like a new motor, but the numbers are only about 3 to 4% difference between them.
How is your valve cover gasket? Oil seeping from there and onto a hot exhaust manifold will give you that hot oil smell.
Don
How is your valve cover gasket? Oil seeping from there and onto a hot exhaust manifold will give you that hot oil smell.
Don
- Thread starter
- #70
There is quite a bit of oil on the outside of the motor. I'll try to clean it up this weekend and get a better idea of where it is coming from.
I just thought it was odd that I usually smelled it while accelerating when driving (didn't smell it while under the hood tuning the carb or adjusting timing)
I just thought it was odd that I usually smelled it while accelerating when driving (didn't smell it while under the hood tuning the carb or adjusting timing)
- Thread starter
- #71
Wow. Long time since my last post! Here is a quick update.
One day I lost all brakes (luckily it was in my driveway!). The master was dry. I could not find a leak at any wheel cylinder or connection so I pulled the master and found fluid coming out of the back end.
I pulled it, disassembled and honed the bore (there was some pitting). I reassembled and then found that I still had leaking out of the cylinder. I then pulled the booster and found that it was full of fluid. No surprise.
So I needed to replace the master and booster. After looking at options I decided it would be most cost effective to go with a more modern master and booster I found one from a '96 80 for $70. Deal!
Then I made the mistake of talking with a buddy about the project and then the scope creep began....
I ended up:
1. Doing a rear disc conversion (designed and fabbed my own brackets)
2. Pulling the rear end, sand blasting and powder costing it
3. Putting all new flex lines on the truck
4. Replacing the rear wheel studs
5. Installing a Spartan locker
6. Making new brake lines for the rear axle
7. Adding the 80 series booster and master along with a proportioning valve.
8. New bearings and seals in the rear
It's been a lot of work but rewarding!
Let the pictures begin............
Not an ideal place to work.. But my one lane driveway with a car port is also not the best place for a disabled 40. My wife gets preferred parking at my house!
I did reattach the leafs and set them down on plywood. Don't want to run the risk of my kids or another little guy getting under there when it's on stands.
More to come later...
One day I lost all brakes (luckily it was in my driveway!). The master was dry. I could not find a leak at any wheel cylinder or connection so I pulled the master and found fluid coming out of the back end.
I pulled it, disassembled and honed the bore (there was some pitting). I reassembled and then found that I still had leaking out of the cylinder. I then pulled the booster and found that it was full of fluid. No surprise.
So I needed to replace the master and booster. After looking at options I decided it would be most cost effective to go with a more modern master and booster I found one from a '96 80 for $70. Deal!
Then I made the mistake of talking with a buddy about the project and then the scope creep began....
I ended up:
1. Doing a rear disc conversion (designed and fabbed my own brackets)
2. Pulling the rear end, sand blasting and powder costing it
3. Putting all new flex lines on the truck
4. Replacing the rear wheel studs
5. Installing a Spartan locker
6. Making new brake lines for the rear axle
7. Adding the 80 series booster and master along with a proportioning valve.
8. New bearings and seals in the rear
It's been a lot of work but rewarding!
Let the pictures begin............
Not an ideal place to work.. But my one lane driveway with a car port is also not the best place for a disabled 40. My wife gets preferred parking at my house!
I did reattach the leafs and set them down on plywood. Don't want to run the risk of my kids or another little guy getting under there when it's on stands.
More to come later...
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- Thread starter
- #72
One other thing to mention. I have never down a job of this scale. I was pretty intimidated along the way but it's been a great learning experience.
I'm lucky enough to be able to use the facilities at work to work on personal projects. We have an awesome shop with Cnc mill and lathe 4K laser, water jet, Cnc press brake, welding, powder coating etc....
First thing I did was strip the paint on the rear end with several cans of oven cleaner. It worked pretty well. I did follow up in a few places with a wire wheel.
I took the half shafts out of the rear end and loaded up the rear axle in the back of my sweet 2002 civic and dropped it of at work.
I designed , cut out (4K laser) and welded (mig) up some tombstones for the rear soft lines that will go to the new rear calipers...
Then I sealed up the ends of the housing with several layers of duct tape followed up by a zip ties piece of plastic sheeting.
Then suited up and prepped to blast with aluminum oxide media.
I'm lucky enough to be able to use the facilities at work to work on personal projects. We have an awesome shop with Cnc mill and lathe 4K laser, water jet, Cnc press brake, welding, powder coating etc....
First thing I did was strip the paint on the rear end with several cans of oven cleaner. It worked pretty well. I did follow up in a few places with a wire wheel.
I took the half shafts out of the rear end and loaded up the rear axle in the back of my sweet 2002 civic and dropped it of at work.
I designed , cut out (4K laser) and welded (mig) up some tombstones for the rear soft lines that will go to the new rear calipers...
Then I sealed up the ends of the housing with several layers of duct tape followed up by a zip ties piece of plastic sheeting.
Then suited up and prepped to blast with aluminum oxide media.
- Thread starter
- #73
I blasted the rear end. Not fun. I was drenched with sweat and grit after the 1 and a half hours of blasting. It was definitely not much fun. Not sure if it should have taken that long or if the harbor freight blast I used just sucked.....
It turned out pretty well though.
Then I degas see the entire assembly in the powder coat oven at 430f. I wanted to be sure any oil on/in the cast parts was baked out so that I would get a nice finish on my powder coat. I let that degas for about 2 hours (possibly longer than needed).
Then I used prismatic stone black (maybe a 10% gloss) for the axle. Turned out beautifully. I did have to bake it twice because I did not get a full cure on the cast parts the first time. Someone misplaced the laser thermometer so I had to guess when the part hit target temp (400f) and apparently I was a bit short for the thick castings. Luckily it fully cured the second time (after running it by the tech support team at prismatic).
Here is a shot of the assembly getting ready for the spray booth. Notice the plugs on the ends. I made them out of cardboard that I cut on our 70 watt universal laser. It's so handy to have that thing available.
Here is a picture of the assembly going into our oven.
And the finished part.
It turned out pretty well though.
Then I degas see the entire assembly in the powder coat oven at 430f. I wanted to be sure any oil on/in the cast parts was baked out so that I would get a nice finish on my powder coat. I let that degas for about 2 hours (possibly longer than needed).
Then I used prismatic stone black (maybe a 10% gloss) for the axle. Turned out beautifully. I did have to bake it twice because I did not get a full cure on the cast parts the first time. Someone misplaced the laser thermometer so I had to guess when the part hit target temp (400f) and apparently I was a bit short for the thick castings. Luckily it fully cured the second time (after running it by the tech support team at prismatic).
Here is a shot of the assembly getting ready for the spray booth. Notice the plugs on the ends. I made them out of cardboard that I cut on our 70 watt universal laser. It's so handy to have that thing available.
Here is a picture of the assembly going into our oven.
And the finished part.
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That axle turned out mighty purty!
- Thread starter
- #75
Thx. Took plenty of pics Bc it won't stay that way long when it's back on the road
- Thread starter
- #77
Good question. I spaced the access cover off with a cardboard spacer (used the pattern I made for my gaskets and cut it out on our laser) so it is completely removable without any problem. I did leave the diff on to pc (in hind sight I wish I would not have) but it I'll likely just run around it with a blade when I need to remove it. It should not be difficult to cut the bridge between the diff and housing.
Thanks.
- Thread starter
- #79
So. Moving on to the next phase.
I used a new cloud based cad system called onshape to design caliper brackets for the rear axle. Onshape is a great way to collaborate or share designs. Check out this link and it will take you to the cad model. It is accessible from any web browser.
You should be able to download the flat pattern and have your own set cut. I cut mine on a 4K watt laser, power tapped them in a mill and then powder coated stone black.
Let me know if you are interested in the file and I can always email you a .dxf that can be provided to a shop to cut. Also, I set up the model so that one simple dimension change will update all the sims in the case that you want your caliper at a different angle relative to the axle.
I used a new cloud based cad system called onshape to design caliper brackets for the rear axle. Onshape is a great way to collaborate or share designs. Check out this link and it will take you to the cad model. It is accessible from any web browser.
You should be able to download the flat pattern and have your own set cut. I cut mine on a 4K watt laser, power tapped them in a mill and then powder coated stone black.
Let me know if you are interested in the file and I can always email you a .dxf that can be provided to a shop to cut. Also, I set up the model so that one simple dimension change will update all the sims in the case that you want your caliper at a different angle relative to the axle.
- Thread starter
- #80
Here is a shot of the caliper in one of the brackets before powder coat.
