I know the brake booster threads have been beaten to death...but I just finished mine and I thought I'd share what I found out. And maybe answer some questions that may still be floating around out there.
My '78 has the really fat booster (7" deep). Went to the junk yard with a list of possible booster doner vehicles gleaned from searches done here. ('85 mini truck, '89 4-runner, '85 supra, T100 truck)....and ALL of them had the skinny booster (~4" deep). I was really hoping to find a fat one because I was trying to avoid having to use a tube bender. I went ahead and got the skinny booster off of a mini truck one since that seems to be most popular.
Went ahead and took out the old, fat booster and mounted the skinny one. Mounted the MC. Now came the part I was worried about - bending the brake lines. I even got a tube bender - turns out I didn't need it. I was able to reconnect/relocate the brake lines fairly easily. I very carefully either slightly widened or slightly narrowed the bends that were already there. After some careful experimenting, I was able to relocate the lines. If you do it this way, just take your time. ALOT easier than I thought it'd be. I did have to trim about 1/4" off the booster rod and adjust it by about 1/4" closer to the booster.
Super easy, actually. Oh...and be sure to get the check valve from the doner vehicle.
Brakes already work better...even before I've bled them.
Dave.
'78 FJ40
My '78 has the really fat booster (7" deep). Went to the junk yard with a list of possible booster doner vehicles gleaned from searches done here. ('85 mini truck, '89 4-runner, '85 supra, T100 truck)....and ALL of them had the skinny booster (~4" deep). I was really hoping to find a fat one because I was trying to avoid having to use a tube bender. I went ahead and got the skinny booster off of a mini truck one since that seems to be most popular.
Went ahead and took out the old, fat booster and mounted the skinny one. Mounted the MC. Now came the part I was worried about - bending the brake lines. I even got a tube bender - turns out I didn't need it. I was able to reconnect/relocate the brake lines fairly easily. I very carefully either slightly widened or slightly narrowed the bends that were already there. After some careful experimenting, I was able to relocate the lines. If you do it this way, just take your time. ALOT easier than I thought it'd be. I did have to trim about 1/4" off the booster rod and adjust it by about 1/4" closer to the booster.
Super easy, actually. Oh...and be sure to get the check valve from the doner vehicle.
Brakes already work better...even before I've bled them.
Dave.
'78 FJ40