78 Disc/Drum combo upgrade to early FJ40, Best MC? (1 Viewer)

[Living in the Past]

Would this be the right booster?

Dual Diaphragm Disc Brake Booster for Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 FJ60

Brand new dual diaphragm brake booster for 10/'75 and later Land Cruiser FJ40, FJ45, FJ55, and BJ40 with disc brakes. Also works for: Any year FJ40 that has undergone a disc brake conversion. '81 to '87 FJ60 This plug and play replacement unit is designed to work with your existing Toyota...

www.cityracerllc.com

And this the right MC?

OEM Brake Master Cylinder for '81 to '85 Land Cruiser FJ40 BJ42 FJ60 BJ60

Brake master cylinder for the following models with front disc brake: 8/80-10/85 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40, BJ428/80-4/85 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ608/80-10/85 Toyota Land Cruiser BJ608/80-11/84 HJ60OEM part numbers: 47201-60120, 47201-60130, 47201-60210, 47201-60220 Made in Japan by OE manufacturer...

www.cityracerllc.com

Or this one, since you said "dual"?

OEM Brake Master Cylinder for '76 to '80 Land Cruiser FJ40 BJ40 FJ55

Discontinued. Please substitute with either Option A or Option B. Brake master cylinder for 9/'75 to 7/'80 Toyota Land Cruiser FJ40 FJ55 BJ40 with front disc and rear drum brakes. Part number 47201-60050. Made in Japan by OE manufacturer ADVICS (previously branded under AISIN). Note: If your...

www.cityracerllc.com

Always find it interesting everybody says you need to get rid of the old single circuit brake system because is a line broke or wheel cylinder failed you would lose all brake. 8/80 with a single reservoir one circuits fails the reservoir empties and neither circuit works. Only difference is you get a light on the dash. Major failure like a rubber line being cut like the case of an old 45LV years ago by the time the light goes on the brakes are gone. Years ago bought a disc brake axle, master cylinder and dual brake lines running to right side frame rail for my 68 FJ40. Decided well adjusted drum brakes on stock setup work fine and not worth the hassle of upgrading to disc brake axle up front.

 

[tlaporte]

Always find it interesting everybody says you need to get rid of the old single circuit brake system because is a line broke or wheel cylinder failed you would lose all brake. 8/80 with a single reservoir one circuits fails the reservoir empties and neither circuit works. Only difference is you get a light on the dash. Major failure like a rubber line being cut like the case of an old 45LV years ago by the time the light goes on the brakes are gone. Years ago bought a disc brake axle, master cylinder and dual brake lines running to right side frame rail for my 68 FJ40. Decided well adjusted drum brakes on stock setup work fine and not worth the hassle of upgrading to disc brake axle up front.

I had forgotten that my current setup is like the first MC I posted, with a single reservoir (part #
47201-60200).

 

[pb4ugo]

I got tired of frozen adjusters and wheel cylinders, and adjusting brakes all the time.

 

[Living in the Past]

I got tired of frozen adjusters and wheel cylinders, and adjusting brakes all the time.

Guess I'm just old school. Still change my own oil, rotate my tires and wash my vehicles by hand. Just part of the routine keeping up on the brakes. I do not live in the rust belt so frozen adjusters are not really a problem. When ever I do drive on salted roads wash the under side.

 

[wngrog]

Yes in the booster.

The second Master is for a 40. The first one is a FJ60 and not correct

 

[wngrog]

Always find it interesting everybody says you need to get rid of the old single circuit brake system because is a line broke or wheel cylinder failed you would lose all brake. 8/80 with a single reservoir one circuits fails the reservoir empties and neither circuit works. Only difference is you get a light on the dash. Major failure like a rubber line being cut like the case of an old 45LV years ago by the time the light goes on the brakes are gone. Years ago bought a disc brake axle, master cylinder and dual brake lines running to right side frame rail for my 68 FJ40. Decided well adjusted drum brakes on stock setup work fine and not worth the hassle of upgrading to disc brake axle up front.

I whole heartedly disagree but we can still be friends.

Wouldn’t it be nice if the rest of the world was like Mud?

 

[Living in the Past]

I had forgotten that my current setup is like the first MC I posted, with a single reservoir (part #
47201-60200).

Interesting that is for the 10/82-10/84 Australia market HJ47 brake master cylinder. Last two model years the HJ47 had disc brakes up front. When I picked up the axles from a 84 HJ47 troopy I grabbed the complete hydraulic system including the master cylinder and booster.
47201-60130 was the stock master cylinder with 47201-60220 as a sub. This is for the 8/80+ FJ40 and BJ42 in North America. Plus for the FJ60 and BJ60 8/80-4/85 in North America. These were single reservoir. 8/80 the rear axle went from two to single wheel cylinder. Master cylinder and booster changed at that time.

 

[pb4ugo]

Guess I'm just old school. Still change my own oil, rotate my tires and wash my vehicles by hand. Just part of the routine keeping up on the brakes. I do not live in the rust belt so frozen adjusters are not really a problem. When ever I do drive on salted roads wash the under side.

I'm old school too, but Land Cruisers' drum brakes from 1960's and 70's were beyond old school. They are antique and antiquated with 2 wheel cylders, with 4 pistons and multiple adjusters on just 1 corner, imo is nuts. I swapped out my drum frt end to a later model disc frt end back in the early 80's. To this day, I believe this was one of the best mods I have done to my 40, along with evetually going to rear disc's. In the beginning my 40 was a daily driver/wheeler. I never really had mechanical issues from salty roads. It had more to do with trail dirt contamination and its effects on the braking system. In later years the 40 wasn't a daily driver/wheeler as much, but I was still constantly adjusting and dealing with the rear drums. I would typically would go thru a set of shoes in 1 1/2 years or less. The dirt and mud from the trail was like sand paper to the linings causing me to constantly adjust, free up wheel cyldrs and replace brake shoes. East coast wheeling requires us to be proficient with mud, silty water, rocks and water crossings.

 

[bikersmurf]

When I bought my ‘74 in ‘91 I rebuilt the drums in all 4 corners. 2 years, 20k miles later the shoes were worn out and the drums also needed to be replaced. I picked up a disk axle for $100 and muddled through a disc conversion blindly… but figured it all out. 19 years and 95k miles later the $20 pads were thin, so I replaced them and the callipers.,, never once adjusting them.

 

[SteveH]

I put '77 disk/drum FJ40 axles on a '65 FJ45, and used an '87 Toyota pickup master cylinder without a booster, and the truck stopped very well. I re-plumbed all the brake lines to '77-era fittings.

Not having a booster kept it clean under hood and let me keep the firewall rib. I did a few panic stops and I had good bias (F/R) and good stopping power. The '87 pickup MC had a good diameter that provided the right level of pressure and pedal travel with this setup.

 

[EWheeler]

I put '77 disk/drum FJ40 axles on a '65 FJ45, and used an '87 Toyota pickup master cylinder without a booster, and the truck stopped very well. I re-plumbed all the brake lines to '77-era fittings.

Not having a booster kept it clean under hood and let me keep the firewall rib. I did a few panic stops and I had good bias (F/R) and good stopping power. The '87 pickup MC had a good diameter that provided the right level of pressure and pedal travel with this setup.

Did you use any kind of proportioning or bias valve, or straight from the master to the front & rear brakes respectively?

 

[wngrog]

I am rebuilding a set of 78 axles to have a dual circuit, disc/drum set up in my 1961 FJ40. @Rainman is making a new set of brake lines for it. I originally was going to just run the drums and convert to a dual circuit system, so I had already ordered a new Drum/drum MC and a firewall adapter from Mark @65swb45.

Now that I am going to discs, I will need to do something else for an MC.

1. I have read on here that I can pull the residual valve out of the front circuit on this MC and use that with the disc front. Is this true? Is this a stupid thing to do from a safety and functionality standpoint? If it isn't, can anyone explain to this at best mechanic how to do it so I don't die in a flaming wreck?

2. I'm happy to move this MC along on the forum to someone else who could use and just buy the appropriate MC. I'd rather not cut the rib off the firewall, so am planning to at least try this unboosted for now. On boosted set-ups, the non-ABS early 80 series appears to be the consensus. Does that hold for non-boosted as well? Any better options?I found this thread from @cruiseroutfit, and a few others, but nothing I could find specific for a non-boosted set-up. @wngrog, didn't patina start out this way? Any thoughts?

Thanks for the help.

Builds - Goat. A 1967 survivor FJ-45 LWB

It’s a great Christmas at the Grogan house when it takes an LPB to haul off all the boxes to the “recycle” pit on the farm

forum.ih8mud.com

This is what I did on the Goat with great results.

 

[SteveH]

@EWheeler - Did you use any kind of proportioning or bias valve, or straight from the master to the front & rear brakes respectively?

No - I ran the brake MC as it came from Toyota and added no other proportioning valves. The pickup it came from had front disk/rear drum, of course. The FJ45 would lock all 4 tires evenly on dirt and seemed to show good F/R bias. I would say that the pedal effort was not super light, but it was far from difficult. Hearing horror stories of unassisted disk brake vehicles, I was pleasantly surprised at how easy the truck was to stop. I'm sure that would have changed if I put 2000# in the bed, however.

 

[wngrog]

My 45 does great disc/disc no booster. Sure it feels different than a boosted truck but the ole Cruiser has plenty of pedal to smash

 

[miso63]

JT Outfitters adapter and a non ABS 80 master is the go-to setup if you don’t want a booster.

I just found out about the JT outfitters adapter, can you help me figure out the rest of this upgrade? Is there video out there? I have a ‘63 and would like to upgrade to a dual circuit system.

 

[B y r o n]

I just found out about the JT outfitters adapter, can you help me figure out the rest of this upgrade? Is there video out there? I have a ‘63 and would like to upgrade to a dual circuit system.

The information in this thread should help.