joe, i've never done it, but read it in four wheeler magazine back in the dark ages. if i recall correctly it was an f250 with a matching trailer set up for fishin' trips. sorry dude, i've not got time to root through 50yrs of back issuses. though you might find it in their archives.
77 Hilux pick up bed trailer build (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter joebattle1
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Living in the Past
SILVER Star
I missed you replaced the tail lights. Where did you find aftermarket, cost? My lenses are old with a few cracks and housings are dry rotted.
I would really think money spent on a big single alt on the 60 would be money well spent verse making a low hanging rock target on a pumpkin that doesn't need to be there. trailer axles as cheap drop or straight. you already have charge capabilities on with the 7 pin.
- Thread starter
- #24
Nono, Didn't mean for you to go digging. I have the Google. Was just intrigued by the idea. Sounds neat.
I got them on ebay for $32.98 plus shipping. There seams to be no shortage of aftermarket tail lights there. They are not even close to the quality of the OEM lights but they look a lot better simply because of the newness. I don't have the same standards I do for the Hilux as I do with the 60. I tried knockoff tail lights for the 60 once and I took them off immediately and sprung for the OEM ones. They just looked to awful.
I actually run a Mean Green 50 amp alt now on my 60. I have no clue how to tie in my trailer battery (which I don't even have yet) to the alternator. Something I need to do more research on.
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you have 12v on your 7 pin so when it's plugged in and has a higher voltage than your future battery is charging. a small amperage battery isolation unit from Blue Sea will keep the 2 battery's separate and only connect them when it sees a charging voltage 13+ Volts. different brands vary on the exact cut over voltage i believe. this will keep one battery from draining the other in a mismatched voltage/power available situation. it would work without the isolation just unplug when not running to manually isolate or use a low cost relay powered with your running lights so it's only connected when lights are on. something like that would be cheap Low cost way of doing it.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Thanks I found the ones you got as well as a few others all from Thailand. I found some OEM tail lights suppose to be available from a Japanese website but haven't had much luck on that site having what they say they do. They were just under $100 apiece plus shipping. I'm sure OEM would be much better quality but for the trailer not worth it. Just need to be sure I parkt it so the sun doesn't shine on them. Figure UV would kill them pretty quick. I have plan so I can use all the lights with the my FJ40s, FJ62 and third gen 4Runner. Then be able to plug into our eth gen 4Runner and Sequoia with the four pin connector and just use the red lens dual element lamp. This will require a plug at the front with two different pigtails to plug into vehicles. Will also require some custom wiring with relays on the 3rd gen 4Runner and earlir vehicles so they also have a four pin for the couple of military trailers I have. Not sure I'm going to worry about reverse light but would like to have the amber turn signals.
I can snap a couple pictures of how mine looks with 31X10.50X15s. With the Camry wheels the tires are just inside the fender wheels which I like. I don't mine the Camry rims just want to go with FJ40 rims and hub caps unless I could find the correct rims and hub caps like you have. Since the Sequoia does most the highway towing and has the five lug wheels figure I wall have to carry a spare.
On the back of mine plan on just having tube bent to go between the frame rail and goes just under the license plate bracket. This will still allow the tailgate to drop down if needed.
- Thread starter
- #27
Finally got around to getting my tail lights to work properly. Had to stop working on the trailer to get my 60 up and running again. Had to have the head redone and a whole bunch of other stuff.
The trailer lights were wired for a four pin before and I wanted all of the tail lights to work exactly like the 60 lights so I had to undo a hodge podge of previous owners trailer wiring on the 60. I used a 7 pin and customized the wire layout to make all the lights work the same on the trailer as they do on the 60.
Here's a vid of them working...
The trailer lights were wired for a four pin before and I wanted all of the tail lights to work exactly like the 60 lights so I had to undo a hodge podge of previous owners trailer wiring on the 60. I used a 7 pin and customized the wire layout to make all the lights work the same on the trailer as they do on the 60.
Here's a vid of them working...
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Browsed through your thread and like your ideas, work & persistance. Solid trailer and got a chuckle out of your "1/2 vehicle" angle to justify it for your wife.
Also the muffler still being underneath.
Electrical work can seem tedious. But it needs to be solid to avoid the "nightmare" problems that can surface and it looks like you're taking the right approach. 
Also the muffler still being underneath. Electrical work can seem tedious. But it needs to be solid to avoid the "nightmare" problems that can surface and it looks like you're taking the right approach.
Living in the Past
SILVER Star
Funny I haven't done much with mine either. I did check eBay and seems the selection of tail lights was greatly reduced. I did order a set which showed last ones. We're suppose to be here Thursday and didn't show up. Left for the weekend Friday afternoon. Got a eBay from Friday evening saying they were delivered and signed for six hours early. Obviously didn't sign for them. Will see if there are tomorrow went we get home.
Read through your build and I love it! Def stealing your wiring ideas! Looking forward to your progress!
Looking forward to your progress!
ntsqd
technerd
I suspect that you'll find even 10 ga. wire in the charge circuit to be slow at charging the battery. Over that distance the voltage drop will be too great for anything more than a trickle charge.
For a reasonable ampacity I'll suggest looking at Anderson connectors. Like this: SB120 SB Series 120 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit The full product range: DC Power Products | Powerwerx
For a max charge rate of 80A at less than 3% Voltage Drop to our slide-in camper's batteries I used the SB120 connector with 6 ga. cables. Seems like massive overkill, but the total circuit length (have to include the ground path/wire/cable) and less than or equal to 3% Voltage Drop really drove up the conductor size. I chose 3% max to keep the voltage high enough to actually charge the battery. 5% drop wouldn't do it, at least not very fast. At the time there was no solar on the camper, so the truck's ~120A alternator had to be able to bring the camper batteries back up in less than a day's drive.
I like to run a dedicated battery hot clear to near the rear bumper of all of my trail & tow rigs's. I use a 285 Series manual breaker (Eaton Bussmann 285 Series Resettable Circuit Breakers Surface Mount up to 150A), usually an 80A, at the battery tap, and place isolated studs at likely spots along the run. Makes it easy to get battery power for whatever I add to the rig. I use the manual reset version because it is also a simple on/off switch should I need it.
I used powerwerks pages for simplicity but I don't think that I've ever bought anything from them. None the less, they appear to be a good vendor and have been around for a while.
For a reasonable ampacity I'll suggest looking at Anderson connectors. Like this: SB120 SB Series 120 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit The full product range: DC Power Products | Powerwerx
For a max charge rate of 80A at less than 3% Voltage Drop to our slide-in camper's batteries I used the SB120 connector with 6 ga. cables. Seems like massive overkill, but the total circuit length (have to include the ground path/wire/cable) and less than or equal to 3% Voltage Drop really drove up the conductor size. I chose 3% max to keep the voltage high enough to actually charge the battery. 5% drop wouldn't do it, at least not very fast. At the time there was no solar on the camper, so the truck's ~120A alternator had to be able to bring the camper batteries back up in less than a day's drive.
I like to run a dedicated battery hot clear to near the rear bumper of all of my trail & tow rigs's. I use a 285 Series manual breaker (Eaton Bussmann 285 Series Resettable Circuit Breakers Surface Mount up to 150A), usually an 80A, at the battery tap, and place isolated studs at likely spots along the run. Makes it easy to get battery power for whatever I add to the rig. I use the manual reset version because it is also a simple on/off switch should I need it.
I used powerwerks pages for simplicity but I don't think that I've ever bought anything from them. None the less, they appear to be a good vendor and have been around for a while.
@joebattle1, that wiring job, well done. it also cuts down on loaning it out... ah yeah, the 7 pin on your truck aint gonna work on my trailer, sorry
- Thread starter
- #33
Read through your build and I love it! Def stealing your wiring ideas!
Hey man, Thanks for looking in. My next move is to find a space in my yard or my garage to either drill holes or pour some concrete so I can use my neighbors bender. I want to start building the bed bars.
I suspect that you'll find even 10 ga. wire in the charge circuit to be slow at charging the battery. Over that distance the voltage drop will be too great for anything more than a trickle charge.
For a reasonable ampacity I'll suggest looking at Anderson connectors. Like this: SB120 SB Series 120 Amp Anderson Powerpole Kit The full product range: DC Power Products | Powerwerx
For a max charge rate of 80A at less than 3% Voltage Drop to our slide-in camper's batteries I used the SB120 connector with 6 ga. cables. Seems like massive overkill, but the total circuit length (have to include the ground path/wire/cable) and less than or equal to 3% Voltage Drop really drove up the conductor size. I chose 3% max to keep the voltage high enough to actually charge the battery. 5% drop wouldn't do it, at least not very fast. At the time there was no solar on the camper, so the truck's ~120A alternator had to be able to bring the camper batteries back up in less than a day's drive.
I like to run a dedicated battery hot clear to near the rear bumper of all of my trail & tow rigs's. I use a 285 Series manual breaker (Eaton Bussmann 285 Series Resettable Circuit Breakers Surface Mount up to 150A), usually an 80A, at the battery tap, and place isolated studs at likely spots along the run. Makes it easy to get battery power for whatever I add to the rig. I use the manual reset version because it is also a simple on/off switch should I need it.
I used powerwerks pages for simplicity but I don't think that I've ever bought anything from them. None the less, they appear to be a good vendor and have been around for a while.
Yea, I've been rethinking my battery situation. I'm getting ready to do a dual battery set up in the 60 and I may just send down an accessory line to the open slot in the trailer 7pin. I have one of those 12volt 4 slot plugs that I want to sink into the side of the DeeZee box. Its got a USB, and a few other 12v openings, mostly for phone charging and what not. I'll post a pic when I go out to the garage next. My Amazon cart has almost everything needed (I think) for the dual bat set up. I've all ready got a few bits collected for the project.
Ha, Yes, there is that side of it. The other downside though is my 7 pin won't work for any other 7 pin trailer... Oh well... I found this 4 pin adapter for old Toyota pick ups. I'm wondering if it will plug and play on my 60. They certainly look like similar plugs.
ntsqd
technerd
If that converter isn't one that needs battery power my experience has been that they last about a year, whether you use them or not. After replacing several of them I gave up and built a relay system to do the conversion. Had it on my 60 and now it is part of my up-coming project to set-up flat towing lighting on the 4rnnr.
- Thread starter
- #35
Hey there folks. Man... It's been a while since I posted here. Not a whole bunch has changed with the trailer. Although I did take it on it's maiden voyage! Went to SurfNTurf 2019 with a couple friends and my wife and daughter. We had a blast and the trailer performed great. Definitely want to get back to working on it but I have to throw money at it slowly and quietly... Don't want to wake the beast aka (Wife)...
My neighbor was having an ol hillbilly clear out and gave me these here Chevy 63's he had layin in the Mud behind his garage. So now I need to order up a bunch of hardware and I gotta get me a 3500 lb straight axle.
My neighbor was having an ol hillbilly clear out and gave me these here Chevy 63's he had layin in the Mud behind his garage. So now I need to order up a bunch of hardware and I gotta get me a 3500 lb straight axle.
ntsqd
technerd
I'd put those 63's on the FJ, not the trailer. It's good that the trailer's suspension be supple so it doesn't break the eggs or foam the beer, but it doesn't need a long travel suspension and it will never articulate - it can't. It will rotate at the coupler first.
- Thread starter
- #37
I suppose you're right... They were free and he was ready to chuck them so I took them. The trailer definitely needs new suspension. These leafs are blown out and the shocks can't be much better. It sagged pretty good fully loaded. When I add steel weight and a RTT one day I'll really need that added oomf of suspension.
Nice!! Still working to get mine road worthy.
- Thread starter
- #39
Got around to building the roof top tent rack. My buddy Chopperbob did 99% of the work. I had to cook lunch…
This is @Chopperbobsmith he’s a hot rod building bad ass. Give him a follow on IG.
He was nice enough to knock this out for me.
This is @Chopperbobsmith he’s a hot rod building bad ass. Give him a follow on IG.
He was nice enough to knock this out for me.
- Thread starter
- #40
Couple more pics…
