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Joined
Oct 28, 2015
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Location
Yukon
Hey just started a fix up (can't afford a full restore) on a 76 FJ40. Bought it because mechanically it is good and the price was right. Body needs work but it can be recovered. However toying around with it the last couple days trying to find gremlins I have found a mechanical snag. The transfer case has a real hard time moving from 2H to 4H. 4H to 4L is no problem. I have read the hard reverse trick on this site and tried it. After trying a couple hard reverses the shifter will now move upward but not very far however that is an improvement as it would not move at all before. Im still not convinced it's even making it all the way in to 2H but at least there is some movement. Now here is the biggest problem. After all my efforts to get this thing to shift to 2H the tcase is making a clunk. Doesn't matter if it's in 4H or 4L it clunks. Only stops when Tranny is neutral and fully stopped. If you are moving it clunks even in transmission neutral just rolling. Now I know what most people are thinking. U joints or shafts but wait one last detail! Put the Tcase in neutral and put the cruiser in gear and it just clunks away. So there is no movement just tranny turning transfer case and the transfer case is just clunking away. Also remember it won't shift into 2H. I am convinced it needs a transfer case rebuild but before I attempt removing that transfer case I am looking for any educated opinions. This is my first cruiser.

Thanks
 
My guess - Worn idler shaft, idler bearings or thrust washers. Otherwise, 2hi and 4hi function off the same output gear on the main shaft. The difference depends on whether or not the FWD clutch is engaged.
 
Disconnect the manual shift lever completely and try to operate the high/low function by hand. (A Cresent wrench will help) See if you can get through high/neutral/low easily. Check to see that the FD fork shaft is in it's rear most position. It may be rusted or stuck in place, not allowing 2WD operation.
 
So I don't have a mechanical manual in my hand yet as I just picked this beauty up. I understand what your saying about disconnecting the lever and running it through the sections. I need a little more explanation about the FD forkshaft I am not sure what that is. If the forkshaft is rusted would this cause the clunking I described. I really dont understand the clunking while not moving unless its internal in the transfer case.
 
The front drive shaft is engaged by the shift mechanism located on the 'nose cone' . A clutch engages the front drive shaft when the fork shaft is moved forward by the shift lever.
This is not likely to be the source of the clunk based on your current descriptions.
Does the clunk happen when the t-case is in neutral?
 
Yes if you put the tcase in neutral but put the tranny in gear ie your driving the t case the t case clunks. It clunks all the time but yes if your not moving and you put the tcase in neutral and you select a gear to get the internals moving the tcase clunks
 
If the linkage is just stiff-there is a grease zerk for the shaft that will freeze up (around these parts anyway) and they are almost NEVER greased
 
I am going to disconnect the front shaft on the weekend and retest. While I am under there I should check the oil level in the Tcase can anyone describe the location of the fill bolt so I can check level? Thanks for the update on the shaft. I'll try greasing it but I'm still concerned about the clunk. Again it is internal and will happen if if just the Tcase is turning.
 
Fill bolt is on the left side of the t-case 3/4 of the way towards the rear. See the pic.
100_1024.JPG
 
^Isn't that the trans fill? Tcase would be just around the corner from the pto cover visible on the lh side at an angle here. 17mm? there are 2 top fill-bottom drain.
 
Thanks everyone. Snow came in here unexpected and lots of it so I have to get some work out of the way in the shop so I can bring the FJ in. Can't really work outside anymore. Was hoping to follow up on advice right away but its goig to take a bit now. As soon as I can I am going to disconnect the driveshafts one at a time and retest. I will check to make sure linkage is not siezed. I have been told to check for output shaft play so I will amd of course will check levels while I am under there. Like I said may be awhile before I reply I have other things that must be completed first. Keep the advice coming as I will action it eventually. Thanks.
 

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