'76 hard Doors on a '71?

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Joined
Jun 12, 2005
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5
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16
Location
Bay Area, CA
Damnit: Not only will the new doors i just picked up not close cause of the f*ing roll bar, but now I just saw that i may need a different type of door striker.

I have a '71 rig with a '76 hardtop and doors and didn't know there were going to be so many issues.

Are there any other surprises I should be expecting????????

It's going to be a cold drive home from the shop tonite, no doors & no rear liftgate installed.
 
Other than needing the updated striker those doors should fit. Do you have the stock toyota rollbar? how and where is it interfearing with the new doors?
 
I have a '71 and mine didn't come with a stock rollbar. Is yours stock?
 
Only way any roll bar is interfering with front doors is if the cage is aftermarket/custom.

The later doors are thicker than the early ones. You'll have to make adjustment to your roll cage to get them to work. And, yes, you need newer strikers. CCOT sells 'em but I'd try cruiserdan first.

PM JasonH of LSLC. He had a custom cage put in, it interfered with his late-model hard doors...he can tell you what he did as a fix.
 
nlines177 said:
Damnit: Not only will the new doors i just picked up not close cause of the f*ing roll bar, but now I just saw that i may need a different type of door striker.

I have a '71 rig with a '76 hardtop and doors and didn't know there were going to be so many issues.

Are there any other surprises I should be expecting????????

It's going to be a cold drive home from the shop tonite, no doors & no rear liftgate installed.
Hey Nick, You truly have gone through much trouble keeping warm and dry this season. Being the nice kind hearted soul that I am---- I will make you a set of late doors to early tub strikers for free! I'll send them to you with your back hatch hinge bar. Sound good? Your front cage was probably made for stock 71/40 doors which are thinner than the 76'ers, you might be able to unbolt the bottom foot bolts from the front hoop, and put a come-a-long from side to side and squeeze the legs inward so the the doors clear, drill new holes on the floor flanges and bolt down. Or cut the front cage off and get one for a 76/40. Or swap your 76 door for 71 doors and change your upper door bow piece from your 76 top with one from a 71 top. Please give me a call if this sounds confusing. Later, John Pardi
 
My guess is that the roll bar is not stock. It's my understanding that Toyota OEM was from the front seats back. Besides, this one isn't even square, i need 2.5" on the driver and 1" pass to get the doors to close.

Party on john, you're the man. I did try the comealong trick lastnight and found that it still won't work. The problem is that the crossmember on the top-front of the cage is too long so no matter how close I jack it in from the bottom, the top isn't moving. It still hits at the window sill. I have plenty room at the bottom.

The fix: Cut out a 2" section from the crossmember and reweld it.

The problem: No shop that I can find is willing to weld anything cause they don't want the liability. I'd be willing to swear to secrecy and pay cash to any shop who would do it around here, if anyone knows. i just want the doors to work. WHO HAS A TORCH????
 
Did you get the rear doors too? You'll enjoy chopping the tub on both sides so that the doors sit recessed. (Just found this out after painting my 74 tub and installing a 76 top.) :(


Kevin
 
does anyone have a link to these strikers? I couldnt find them on their site.

thanks!
Dustin
 
I'm looking for these strikers too. sngladwin at yahoo dot ca
thanks, sorry for the hijack.
 
I have the half doors, not ambi so from the look of things it all fits. But the way things have been going, i wouldn't be surprised.... but I think i'm in the clear. Thanks for the heads up.
 
I have a set of pre 74 doors completely rebuilt..ie..new rubber..new track....new seals....no rust....

Trade?
 
does anyone have a link to these strikers? I couldnt find them on the COOT site.

thanks!
Dustin
 
Does anyone hae any info on puting amb. doors on a pre 75 cruiser? I have a 73 FJ40 and am redoing the top and it came with amb. doors. Is it worth the trouble ? I have the original swing out lowers. Would I be better off getting a top swing up window and putting it in the top?
 
Oh no... a Raider fan in O'side.... this could get ugly.















:flipoff2:

All kidding aside (sort of), It can be done but may not be worth the trouble. Personally I would look for an earlier top.

Read here: https://forum.ih8mud.com/showthread.php?t=183643

Seems like a lot of trouble. Anything is possible though and quite a few people have done it.

Good luck...






GO BOLTS!
 
dont answer here much because always ends in an argument but since the roll bar is aftermarket you can sleeve it with a smaller tube then drill and bolt it. alot of roll bars were shipped this way to save space. then maybey have it welded later this way you can do it with a saw and a drill and get your top on for the winter good luck
 
DomSmith- Yes Oceanside is an ugly place to be a Raiders Fan. To much Powder Blue.

I saw the post and looked all over but couldnt find much info on it. I am going to look around before i finish the top. Is is possible to put an earlier flip up window on a 1975 and up hard top? I was going to look into getting a new header and possibly a flip up window.
 
Dom,
Thanks for helping me out on this. I am hoping that it would just require the hardtop header and the parts for the flip up. I got a pretty good deal on the hardtop. I have it all broke down but I am going to have to put it on hold until I find out if I can put the flip up on a 75 and up hardtop. Do you know if a 68-74 hardtop has the recession on it ?
 
if you use the rear top support with the hinges the swing up gate will work .you will need to drill holes for the latches and brackets that hold the spring loaded lifts. its a little work but you only need to do it once or get a set of 67 to 74 side panels good luck
 
if you use the rear top support with the hinges the swing up gate will work .you will need to drill holes for the latches and brackets that hold the spring loaded lifts. its a little work but you only need to do it once or get a set of 67 to 74 side panels good luck

The side panels are in excellent shape so i would hate to miss out on them. I was thinking that if i changed the hardtop header that it would work, but i am looking for second opions or someone who has already done this. Thanks for you input.
 

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