'76 chevy axles under a '70 FJ40??

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'76 chevy axles under a '70 FJ40?? (Revised)

Has any one done an SOA using Chevy Axles instead of stock Toyota axles? If yes, then did you cut them to width or leave them long? Also, will the stock FJ40 springs work with this conversion? Would it be more viable to just use the stock FJ40 Diffs. then the Danas for the SOA?
Thanks,
Abe In Wilseyville

Thanks For all the info.
The reason I am asking is because I was offered a 76 chevy, that I am pretty sure is a 3/4 or 1 ton, for $200. the guy said he thought it had a 60 front and a 70 rear. I have not looked at the truck so I am not sure my self. I was looking for a little help from the pros. before I made a purchase desion. What I am trying to accomplish is a strong reliable SOA conversion for all types of weelin'. I have a 350 chevy motor, sm420 trans, advanced addapters adapter to stock t case.
From what I have heard my January 1970 FJ is hard to get aftermarket parts for ,ie birfields, brakes etc., so I wanted to explore my options. Any more info. would be great.
Happy trails. Abe
 
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Is there a reason for the Chevy instead of the 'yota? I would think that the Stock would be the way to go since all you really need to do is the cut and turn of the ends to make it work well, plus it has been done many, many times so there are lots of folks to ask for advice. Are the Chevy axles suposed to be stronger than the 'yoda???
 
Are you trying to convert cause you're using a chevy motor/tranny/xfer? Doesn't seem worth all the hassle considering the available adapters and strenght of the stock axles. Why not just upgrade to longs for added strength?
 
1/2 or 1 ton chevy axles ?
use the Toyota stuff unless you were talking dana 60 and 60 or 14blt rear.
yes the fj40 springs will work but with the added width you will want some longer springs and added wb. You will have to outboard the spring mounts unless you narrow the axles.
 
outboard the spring mounts only applies to the front dana 60 cause the spring perch is part of the pumpkin, if I remember right anyway!!
 
It applies to a 44 as well.

76 is an old chevy axle. Exactly what axles are we talking about here?

If it is not a D60 you are wasting your time..
(even then do 76 chevies have disk brakes???)
 
Anything can be done but why bother? Toyota parts are pretty tough up until you really get serious about horsepower and tire size - more and more aftermarket all the time and relatively priced compared to other axle upgrade parts.

Kind of a vague question w/o telling us which axles in particular -
 
I just had a Dana 44 front end installed with a spring over axle conversion on my 70. The guy who installed my Dana 44 runs 38.5" tires on his rig and has never had a bit of problem with his Dana 44. My last cruiser had stock birfields and I never had a problem with them, however I was not running as large as a tire as I am now.

The axle was cut and turned by Currie Enterprises, I elected to go this route because I did not want Birfields and in my opinion a Dana 44 is a little stronger than the cruiser axles. I also got a great deal on the axle I could not pass up. The easier and cheaper route is to retain your cruiser axle.... typically, cruiser axles do not break ring/pinions, but birfields. Driving style and how much beer you consume on the trail can also play a big role in your outcome :)

Personally, if you are running a 35" or larger tire I would go with a Dana 44/60 setup or beef up your cruiser axle with stronger birfields, or bring some spare birfields for carnage on the trail.

:beer:

haystax said:
Anything can be done but why bother? Toyota parts are pretty tough up until you really get serious about horsepower and tire size - more and more aftermarket all the time and relatively priced compared to other axle upgrade parts.

Kind of a vague question w/o telling us which axles in particular -
 
I still doubt the D44 is an "upgrade" more like an even swap if both 44 and LC axle are built with aftermarket parts. A stock 44 is marginally better than a stock LC...maybe

Like I said - anything can be done and everyone has an opinion about what to do
 
Stock D44 U oints are weaker than a Birf in a straight line.
Stock D44 U joints are stronger than stock BF in a corner.

D44 will turn tighter.

D44 is a bit wider.

A d60 swaps into a D44's place easily.

Other than that, a Cruiser's ring and pinion is far stronger than the D44's.
Clearance is better with the cruiser axle.
Upgrades for a cruiser axle are cheaper than for the D44 (shafts) and makes for a stronger unit.

The only real reason to go to a D44 is the added width.
 
My '77 has d60's front and rear. Bought it that way from PO. He had the front axle's cut 5" and the rear 6". Also used the stock front springs.
 
Mace said:
Stock D44 U oints are weaker than a Birf in a straight line.
Stock D44 U joints are stronger than stock BF in a corner.

D44 will turn tighter.

D44 is a bit wider.

A d60 swaps into a D44's place easily.

Other than that, a Cruiser's ring and pinion is far stronger than the D44's.
Clearance is better with the cruiser axle.
Upgrades for a cruiser axle are cheaper than for the D44 (shafts) and makes for a stronger unit.

The only real reason to go to a D44 is the added width.

Don't forget optional 5.89 gears, 33 spline ARB, CTM's, BJ knuckles w/ *better hysteer mounting (larger bolts to flat top knuckle) blah ,blah, blah.......
 
Hi All:

I once saw a poor FJ40 that some shmuck had swapped Chevy 10 bolt axles under - full length! The truck looked awful weird with the tires sticking out so far.
There was also super wide fender flares on it that looked ridiculous!

Regards,

Alan
 

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