'76-'78 w Longs and Aisin hubs?

treerootCO

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Just wanted to make sure nothing has to change if I convert my '78 40 to longs and Aisin hubs. I worked all day today and had to quit once it got dark and the hail started to hurt.

Longs are installed, new axle seals, martacked, ground the inside enough so the birf would fit...

Seems like the hubs are a little stuffed in there, like the spindles are too long. My 78 had the longer style birfs until today. I doubt there is a problem but it figured I should ask so I can get it all finished tomorrow.

Thanks in advance. :)
 

Poser

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Should not be any issues Mike...


Good luck!


-Steve
 
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Mike,

How did you pick the spot to martak? Did you do the martak with just measuring the stardard depth or did you fit and mark it with the clean shaft and grease line method?

Greg
 

nuclearlemon

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hail...no hail here....

as long as you change hubs to match birfs, shouldn'te be a problem..

sorry i didn't make it over there for you to help me iwth my spare...figured the weather was crap and i was still wiped out from yesterday, so i came straight home and had a drik and pondered options on my 1/4 panel... :frown:

you off tomorrow again too? you working next weekend, or do you know yet? argentine pass cleanup is then and if i don't get a new pump in, i'll need a ride...wouldn't mind cruisin in the orion'd toy again...i still get .....excited....about climbing the compost heap wall in low with no gas and no spinning :flipoff2: :flipoff2: you suck.
 

woody

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the shorter shaft of the longfield (relative to the 76-78 birf) is why you must also change to the Aisins....should be able to run the normal clip at the outer end of the long to keep it pulled into the brass spindle bushing
 

Blue77FJ40

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When grinding the flats for the Longs, be aware that what barely fits into the open "ball" may not fit after the bearing caps are torqued on. Don't ask me how I know. Can you say clean out all the moly and start over?

Good luck, Dan
 
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"the shorter shaft of the longfield (relative to the 76-78 birf) is why you must also change to the Aisins....should be able to run the normal clip at the outer end of the long to keep it pulled into the brass spindle bushing"

I have a set of longs in the box for a '77 40 & all Bobby told me I needed to do was a bolt & washer in the end (which he provided) No mention of needing to switch out Warn hubs. Did I miss something :confused:
 

woody

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RJ:

Correct.....Longfields are the same length as minitruck birfs (and 60/62 birfs) and when you use them in conjunction with the longer-bodied 76-78 lockouts, the birf doesn't protrude thru the end of the lockout...you then use a fender washer and a short bolt in the end of the birf.

Warn lockouts are not as strong as Aisins however, so when you upgrade someday (since the lockouts are now likely your weak point) remember that you'll need to switch to the clip.
 

treerootCO

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The martack says 1 3/8 to 1 1/2 from the end. I put a tack at 1 1/2 and put it in the truck. The goal is to keep the seal surface lined up with the seal. On both sides, 1 1/2 wasn't enough. I could push the axle beyond the seal so I pulled them and tried 1 3/8. This worked for both sides.

Thanks for the responses...lets see if anything looks different now that the sun is up.
 
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So I should factor aisin hubs into the budget when I get longs? How about marfields?
And will I need aisins if I get just the longfield, or do you mean the whole axle?
 

woody

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what's a marfield? no such thing anymore....

Just know that the Warn lockout is not as strong as the Aisin, and you should have those on your long term shopping list...I did a nice job shattering a Warn a few years back...whole axle not required, just the Aisin...

course, if you are running a 76-78 front axle, the next weak point once you've done Longfields, chromo inner shafts, and Aisin lockouts will then be the steering arm/knuckle/studs...

at some point, nickle/dime projects are cheaper if you spring for more parts up front...right now, I'm waiting for the new 6-stud knuckles from Marlin to come out :D
 
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When I put in the newer-style birfs (mainly to replace the grooved inner axles) on my '77, I had to go the fender washer route with the Warns. When I got the Samurai/Toyota hybrid Aisins put in, the factory clip worked great again. I got new-looking Sammy Aisins from the pick-n-pull for $10 each, and swapped the inner collar from a trashed set of mini-truck hubs. I like the way the handle doesn't stick out and the solid gray color scheme on the Sammys.

To me, this implies that if you put Aisins on the stock '77 brif stub length you'd have to take up the extra space behind the clip with extra clips or some homemade shims or washers, but I didn't try it.
 

woody

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elblat said:
To me, this implies that if you put Aisins on the stock '77 brif stub length you'd have to take up the extra space behind the clip with extra clips or some homemade shims or washers, but I didn't try it.
actually, it means the 76-78 birfield will physically stick thru the dial of a 79+ Aisin lockout and not work at all....physically impossible.
 

woody

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the 6-studs are still in development mode...hopefully yet this summer...$300 for a pair of knuckles is IMO a screamin price...and they'll have weld-on tabs available to retro your existing 4-hole histeer kits.
 

treerootCO

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Got everything bolted up. I think my only problem was one of the two wasn't put together correctly. It makes it a lot easier if you install the hubs with the lock positioned in 4wd. You have to turn the d-shaft a little but it drops right in.

I going wheeling :)
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treerootCO

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Martack..I still wanted the axel to float but stay on the seal. This pic shows the furthest the axle can go into the diff.
IMG_2455.jpg
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woody said:
actually, it means the 76-78 birfield will physically stick thru the dial of a 79+ Aisin lockout and not work at all....physically impossible.
Oooph! Good to know before trying to use the old birfs as trail spares. Thanks!

I'll carry one of the old Warns or a drive plate with the field birf swap kit. Although you could prolly wing it on the trail by taking the dial out and just using the big spring and lock collar, then cover the opening with duct tape.
 
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