76-77 winch technical question

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Feb 5, 2019
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Got it off and opened up to find…
After watching rebuilds on YouTube, and reading winch rebuild here on mud realized there was NO spring that came out of inside the initial brake spinny thing with the jagged perimeter. (Unlike the 8724 rebuild videos and kit comes with to replace - although mine is 8074 not 8724 so wasn’t sure if had spring or not. Warn says they are basically sister models so she said yes probably uses spring like 8724.

another quick one, if lube got into motor area - is motor likely shot? Or if I sit in sun and clean with electrical contact cleaner - I should be ableto get it fine or is it shot altogether. Looks clean but moist in many areas from lubricants

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1911

chupacabra
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another quick one, if lube got into motor area - is motor likely shot? Or if I sit in sun and clean with electrical contact cleaner - I should be ableto get it fine or is it shot altogether. Looks clean but moist in many areas from lubricants

Your motor doesn't look too bad from the photos, but it could benefit from cleaning the commutator (the copper strips that the brushes push against).

A little oil wouldn't hurt it much, unless it built up enough dirt and grunge to interfere between the brushes and the commutator.
 
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Before you spend a few hundred dollars on a new motor and control box, a couple of minutes with a $3 multimeter would tell you what's wrong with your winch. If you're going to replace the control box I think most people would recommend getting an Albright over the solenoids. I still use solenoids on mine but that's because I don't use my winch that often and have a lot of spares from various other winches.

The 8074 is mostly identical to the 8274 except for the addition of a free spool knob. There may be some minor differences in the brake (pucks vs rings) and the pinion gear, but comparing the two I have they're otherwise the exact same winch.
 
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Joined
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Messages
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Location
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Before you spend a few hundred dollars on a new motor and control box, a couple of minutes with a $3 multimeter would tell you what's wrong with your winch. If you're going to replace the control box I think most people would recommend getting an Albright over the solenoids. I still use solenoids on mine but that's because I don't use my winch that often and have a lot of spares from various other winches.

The 8074 is mostly identical to the 8274 except for the addition of a free spool knob. There may be some minor differences in the brake (pucks vs rings) and the pinion gear, but comparing the two I have they're otherwise the exact same winch.


so I have a nice Hongda Digital Multimeter I can use that I purchased way back when I needed to start my wiring fixes and man what a great purchase...

anyways can you go into a little more depth on how to test using the multimeter as I'm still figuring this thing out. I have figured it out for the most part but what I mean is what do I test (which point and setting multi) and what is it testing for?...(to tell me something about function)?

really appreciate it
 

tornadoalleycruiser

Erik TLCA #5303
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My 8274 had puck brakes, changed to newer style and works fine. If you really want, change the top housing and add a free spool clutch handle. Then you have an 8274. I have an old 8274 motor here I can bench test and sell cheap if you need. Can toss in some solenoids pretty cheap also. I can bench test those also. Most of us have upgraded to an albright solenoid. There are plenty of threads in the witching and recovery section on everything 8274 related.
 
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A couple of helpful links

BillaVista.com-Ask BillaVista Tech Article by BillaVista - http://www.billavista.com/tech/Articles/Ask_BillaVista/index.html
Winch Bench Test - A Complete Guide - https://winchmania.com/winch-bench-test/

Things I would test in this order

1. Make sure the solenoid is getting energized. If it's already assembled in the control box, it's pretty easy to just run a jumper from the battery to the S-post (shown in the first link). You should hear a clicking sound when connected. If you don't hear anything the solenoid might still be good, run a ground from the case and check again.
2. If that works, then test continuity between the two large posts of each solenoid. Sometimes they will energize but the contacts are burnt and the switch doesn't work.
3. Test the motor using jumper cables.

On almost all of the winches I've bought it's the solenoids or poor connections (oxidation) that were the problem.
 

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