Builds 75 Series Truck - VZ shade tree special (2 Viewers)

[OGBeno]

Jesus.

 

[2fpower]

Jesus.

Pronounced Hey-zeus !

 

[2fpower]

Going to test compression today and then see if I have the seals for the oil cooler, and get that slapped on so I can test pressure on the cooling system again.

If we have good compression and cooling system hold pressure, then I will pull the lower pans and check out the bearings.

Oh, the plugs looked pretty good... I have been concerned about a head gasket, so that was promising.

Found two of the gaskets needed, thanks to @Onur A few moons ago

 

[2fpower]

Was thinking about putting in an 80 series where axle to get gas brakes you break and lockers; however the 75 series is 57” rear axle width and the 80 is 62”. Even with the 1.25 spacers, the 80 will be too wide.

 

[SNLC]

That sucks about the engine. Good thing a 1FZ is cheap and readily available. If that was a 1hz it would cost ya a lot more.

Personally, I would want the 1fz fuel injected anyways.

I guess this is all about keeping it to a minimum on repairs and just getting it back on the road?

Cheers

 

[FJBen]

Good thing you already have a great parts stash, that really helps with the troubleshooting.

 

[2fpower]

That sucks about the engine. Good thing a 1FZ is cheap and readily available. If that was a 1hz it would cost ya a lot more.

Personally, I would want the 1fz fuel injected anyways.

I guess this is all about keeping it to a minimum on repairs and just getting it back on the road?

Cheers

I am all about doing something right. So definately not doing things at a minimum. I am way too detailed for that. But I have a mental issue with tearing it down if it is working fine. If this engine has good compression, and otherwise is working good (will hold water), then I see no reason to tear it down. Note... since I am pulling the pans to seal them up, I will pull a bearing cap to see how the wear is, so that might change plans also.

Since you raise the point..

So question for the "dangerous" minds out there. I have an 80 parts car with at good 1fz fuel injected. How many wires coming out of the engine computer need wired into the car to run it? Are we talking a half dozen, or a total clustermuck?

Keep in mind that Onur will likely remind us that the computer I have is for a automatic transmission and needs input from the tranny, so I wlil need to track down a different computer to even get to that step....

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

i think after i hacked the whole 3fe harness apart it was down to like 3-4 wires.. Hot with key, hot, and ignition. Surgical extraction from the donor was very helpful. Label EVERYTHING as you pull it.

 

[SNLC]

Sure it’s not just a swap it over and go deal but I really dislike carbs myself. It is also a good fi system on the 1fz.

Cheers

 

[2fpower]

Brake rotor part numbers. per the toyodiy, I need to use a 43512-60041, that was also used on a fj62. The OEM number seems to be the same as TRW 4153, delphi BG2591 and Bendix 561444B; however, none are available in the US.

What front rotor works for this?

 

[tornadoalleycruiser]

I have spare front disk rotors new in the box , not oem, want a set in the parts shuttle? I think your over analyzing this. If it's a 62 rotor it's a cruiser rotor from 1990 back to 79, pre 79 used bolts and not studs to mount.

 

[2fpower]

I have spare front disk rotors new in the box , not oem, want a set in the parts shuttle? I think your over analyzing this. If it's a 62 rotor it's a cruiser rotor from 1990 back to 79, pre 79 used bolts and not studs to mount.

I keep thinking that I am overthinking, then I see something odd, then realize that you can not overthink this non-US 70 series. Something is lost in translation.

I assume someone here has this nugget of information in thier head.... if not, then I will grab a rotor from you and try it out.

 

[c2dfj45]

I am all about doing something right. So definately not doing things at a minimum. I am way too detailed for that. But I have a mental issue with tearing it down if it is working fine. If this engine has good compression, and otherwise is working good (will hold water), then I see no reason to tear it down. Note... since I am pulling the pans to seal them up, I will pull a bearing cap to see how the wear is, so that might change plans also.

Since you raise the point..

So question for the "dangerous" minds out there. I have an 80 parts car with at good 1fz fuel injected. How many wires coming out of the engine computer need wired into the car to run it? Are we talking a half dozen, or a total clustermuck?

Keep in mind that Onur will likely remind us that the computer I have is for a automatic transmission and needs input from the tranny, so I wlil need to track down a different computer to even get to that step....

The 1FZ takes a fair amount of work to make work as I recall(not like the 3FE at all...simple motors)....we had a donor truck/harness and made it all work. There isn't a ton of room behind that 70's dash for the ECU either(if you have AC and all that good stuff). Fair bit of work to make the 1FZ FE work but it's a nice setup for sure....

 

[roscoFJ73]

For the time being, I would get it up and running, then come back and do engine/diff swaps ect.

Disc Brake Australia make some good brake components for the 7* series. Maybe they have an agent in the US
They are showing this for a US 1989 landcruiser but they dont mention exactly what it is. But 89 would be a FJ62. Lots of US dealers in the Where to Buy section. You can only ask.

Catalog Search | Disc Brakes Australia

www.dbausa.com

 

[2fpower]

Well good news today, the compression numbers look really good

Then worked on cleanup to get ready to put the oil cooler back on. Had to order the larger gasket, should be in tomorrow....

And got the bearings for the front end all accumulated...

 

[OGBeno]

Use 43512-60100 for the rotors.

 

[2fpower]

Bearing don’t look that bad. Oil pan didn’t have chunks !!!

 

[Honger]

Got this information from an old post in classifieds (link: SOLD - Arizona: 7x series Folding Wiper Arms ). It is for the LHD J-hook, folding type arms.

Try these P/Ns:

85221-60090 LHD folding type, J hook end wiper arm #1
85211-60080 LHD folding type, J hook end wiper arm #2
85261-90K00 (end plastic caps)

My 75 had some wonky wiper arms on it when I got the truck and oddly screwed in wiper blades. I replaced all and had to use more modern part numbers from an FZJ78... my old numbers were similar to yours.

You may also want the proper nuts... 90176-08016.

If you don't already have this sorted.

 

[2fpower]

My 75 had some wonky wiper arms on it when I got the truck and oddly screwed in wiper blades. I replaced all and had to use more modern part numbers from an FZJ78... my old numbers were similar to yours.

You may also want the proper nuts... 90176-08016.

If you don't already have this sorted.

Great information!!! added to the parts list.

 

[2fpower]

First order from Rock auto