75' FJ40 Parked for 20+ years. (1 Viewer)

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The bracket is for an EGR service light that measures miles between inspection. A bit specific to a '75 as it is a standalone lamp.

My bracket currently holds a Air/Fuel ratio display that measures my exhaust post-header. I used it on the 720 to dial-in the Weber, and now I have it for the stock smogerator on the 2F for tuning purposes (jetting, octane selection, the all-on but no vac to power valve) as well.
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Got the large port on the EX mani plugged up. I still have some work to do on the intake as the PO left me some thread-less holes to deal with. Here is a box of NOS parts I dug out, some wheel caps, light assemblies, mirrors, lenses, etc. Probably save most of it for the future.

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According to the FSM I have, the fuel pump does NOT require a spacer. I read this on a few threads here at Mud, can anyone confirm 100%? I really am not interested in pulling the pan again. :dead: My fuel pump only has 2 ports. I don't know why they don't show this in "FUEL SYSTEM".

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Oil pan on and torqued to 84 in lbs. Valve cover on. Fresh oil 8.5qts. Primed the system via distributor hole but never could get oil on the rockers. I guess I didn't have the oil holes lined up.
 
Alright need some help with getting the correct part numbers. My goal is to get the manifolds bolted up tight with new (Correct OEM) Hardware. I have what I believe the proper studs, nuts, and washers for the manifolds to cylinder head. Part #'s 90116-12321, unknown (package faded), and 90201-12118 respectively. I also have what I believe to be the proper studs for the exhaust mani to exhaust flange (3 stud flange) 90116-10137.

If I could get help verifying these numbers I would greatly appreciate it. I also need a # lookup for the 2 bolts that connect the intake and exhaust manifolds together from underneath the exhaust manifold (M10x1.25). I have the 3 that drop in from he top. I also need the part numbers for the nuts and if required the washers for the exhaust flange to manifold connection.

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Tried to order a GMB water pump from RA but just got an email it was out of stock. Toyota had pump kits but they are NLA. But the seal is available still, might just have to rebuild the stock pump. I prefer OEM anyways.
 
 
Was trying to save a few $ for the tire fund. I just went out to asses the condition of the stock pump and this is what I found under a glob of partially crystallized ethylene glycol...
Looks like a good place for a crack to propagate from. Probably not worth losing all the coolant on the trail due to a complete outlet separation.

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This is actually the incorrect pump. Mine is no fan clutch and no oil cooler. About 6.5" tall. Aisin doesn't currently make a pump for my truck. Looking at Cruiser outfitters, they have one listed as "Japan" which is likely to be a GMB pump, or an OEM pump @ $190.
 
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Fixed up the mess the PO left for me on the underside of the intake. Won't be stripping these out anytime soon. Disregard that shotty weld job, don't know who did it. One hole wasn't stripped but showed signs of strain. Somebody definitely took her into the plastic region. Japanese Engineering is top notch but the metallurgy in the 70's wasn't like todays. Went ahead and Time-Sert-ed the other hole too. Waiting on some OEM hardware to come in before I can install the manifolds.

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I'm curious to see the exhaust manifold steps when you get around to them. I appreciate the plug on the EGR outlet. I might need to do the same on mine (albeit, I need a tap to clean up the threads).
 
Got a few things done today. Plug wires on, the coil wire was way too short, weird as I checked rock auto and the same part# Denso wires fit 74, 75, and 76 and probably more, don't know what the deal is there. Got the distributor back in after priming the oil pump. Got all the front brake lines replaced, hard steel and rubber. Got the front wheel cylinders and shoes/springs on. I really don't like to CCOT slave cylinders. The end of the adjusters wasn't wide enough for the shoes, had to use the "grinding" method to get them to fit. I still need a brake hose keeper and a copper washer to button up the front section. I got the clutch master and slave installed and since rock auto sent me the wrong clutch hose I didn't get that buttoned up either. Still waiting on hardware to come to my local dealer so I can get the manifolds on. I also need to plug the heat riser shaft holes.

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