75' FJ40 Parked for 20+ years. (1 Viewer)

[Braden620]

Picked up a bunch O fluids. Still need to get SAE 90W GL-4 for trans/transaxle and GL-5 For Differentials. Waiting on parts from Rock Auto to arrive but will still be able to do a few things tomorrow. I need to source a valve cover gasket with round seals and oil pan gasket that is one piece. Stay tuned for pictures.

 

[John Smith]

Picked up a bunch O fluids. Still need to get SAE 90W GL-4 for trans/transaxle and GL-5 For Differentials. Waiting on parts from Rock Auto to arrive but will still be able to do a few things tomorrow. I need to source a valve cover gasket with round seals and oil pan gasket that is one piece. Stay tuned for pictures.

I hope you didn't buy 5w-30 weight engine oil like you mentioned in your first post, as it is way too thin. Many of us run 15W-40 diesel oil, like Rotella. Get some Zink ZDDP additive while you are buying fluids for the flat tappets in your engine also.

 

[Braden620]

I hope you didn't buy 5w-30 weight engine oil like you mentioned in your first post, as it is way too thin. Many of us run 15W-40 diesel oil, like Rotella. Get some Zink ZDDP additive while you are buying fluids for the flat tappets in your engine also.

5w-30 is the OE recommended oil viscosity for anything < 50*F. Seeing how It's currently getting into the 50's at night and will soon be below 50*F almost continuously until spring, I think I will stick with the 5w-30, but thanks for the advice.

Also, not my first rodeo with flat tappets...

 

[Braden620]

 

[Braden620]

Got to work on the 40 for the first time today. Got the radiator out, water pump off, T stat housing off (sketchy looking bolts, grade 5, not metric), old oil drained, 5 ml of marvel mystery oil in cylinders 2-5, and dug out a bunch o NOS parts. Found all sort of stuff for this model and the older models too. Lights, mirrors, all sorts of NOS brake parts, door seals, gas caps, and plenty o other random stuff like a NOS Toyota ring and pinion. So much stuff to sort through. I did locate about 4 of the proper air cleaners and picked the best one. I can't find the original gas tank out of the 6 or so I dug out. I may need some help Identifying the correct one.

 

[Braden620]

 

[Braden620]

Also removed the intake and exhaust manifold, cleaned up the side of the block and sealed the ports with Aluminum tape. Found a Toyota gasket set but sadly had to discard the engine side cover gasket and oil pan gasket as they were torn. Will be able to use the valve cover gasket and grommets, t stat, fuel pump gaskets, etc. There is some funny business going on with the alternator. Will post pics tomorrow. I think the hardest part of phase one is just sorting through all the piles of cruiser stuff try to figure out what pieces I need or can even use.

 

[Braden620]

I got the front brakes torn down. I have a bunch of de-greasing to do before I can install anything new. Brakes weren't really on the agenda for today but since I'm pretty confident this truck will run and I didn't have any engine parts in yet I dug in. Found a nasty surprise in intake port #1 but thankfully the valve is closed. I will do my best to clean it out as to prevent damage. This is why I didn't put marvel in #1 as I want the cylinder to be dry for after cleaning inspection. There are some either vacuum or fuel lines on the passenger side down by the frame rail, I gotta figure out what exactly they are.

 

[Living in the Past]

5w-30 is the OE recommended oil viscosity for anything < 50*F.

Where did you find this information, in the 75 owner's manual? I do not remember any of my 40 series owner's manuals ever recommending 5W-30 for any F/2F engine. My 5.7 V8 on my Sequoia is 0W-20 or 5W-20. But that is a modern engine. Not an old low RPM tractor engine.

 

[Dizzy]

I got the front brakes torn down. I have a bunch of de-greasing to do before I can install anything new. Brakes weren't really on the agenda for today but since I'm pretty confident this truck will run and I didn't have any engine parts in yet I dug in. Found a nasty surprise in intake port #1 but thankfully the valve is closed. I will do my best to clean it out as to prevent damage. This is why I didn't put marvel in #1 as I want the cylinder to be dry for after cleaning inspection. There are some either vacuum or fuel lines on the passenger side down by the frame rail, I gotta figure out what exactly they are. View attachment 2433953View attachment 2433954View attachment 2433955

That is an exhaust port on #1.
I'm pretty sure that those are fuel, and fuel return lines (last photo).
My 40 is a 2/75.
What is that motor on the stand with the multiple carbs? What kind of carbs?

 

[ludwig]

5w-30 is the OE recommended oil viscosity for anything < 50*F. Seeing how It's currently getting into the 50's at night and will soon be below 50*F almost continuously until spring, I think I will stick with the 5w-30, but thanks for the advice.

Braden620,

I made that mistake NOT using Shell Rotella in the 80's. Now, I am waiting for a motor rebuild that will cost over $10,000.
My cam looks like it was drug down a gravel road for 100 miles. Worn slap out, and all that metal goes into all the oil gallery's, ports etc... Don't be stupid and use non diesel oil.

That 5w-30 oil was for leaded fuel. Now we have no lead in our fuel and we also have corn mixed in, bad all around for that motor.
Just my 2 cents.

 

[Braden620]

That is an exhaust port on #1.
I'm pretty sure that those are fuel, and fuel return lines (last photo).
My 40 is a 2/75.
What is that motor on the stand with the multiple carbs? What kind of carbs?

Oops, you're correct. Thanks for the info on the lines. I will get a better picture and label the lines and report back for confirmation. That engine is a Datsun L20B that came out of this very garage. It was pulled from a wrecked wagon with 3k miles on it back in the day. I tore it down, cleaned it and re gasketed (is that a word?) it. Added the dual Mikuni 44phh sidedrafts with a Mikuni intake and centerpull linkage. When I got those carbs they needed almost $800 worth of parts. I opted to send them to the Mikuni master, Todd Walrich at Wolf Creek racing. He even re-plated all the hardware for me. Todd has since passed on, rest his soul. I took the factory L20b out of my 1977 Datsun 620 and put this fresh engine in its place. It ran good and sounded like heaven, but I got a wild hair and removed it to swap in one of the first SR20DET in a
620. The extra 150hp over stock and the fuel injection were a nice upgrade.

 

[Braden620]

The 620 is a fun project but even without all the custom work you can hardly get any parts for the darn thing. The rear differential was a 4.375:1 ratio, so it would break the tires loose before it could build enough torque in anything to break. Its weak link was the open differential design. The spider gears could not handle the shock loading when the traction would transfer between wheels. I have a Nissan H233B Limited slip unit I need to get narrowed to install. I would prefer to go 4 link to prevent axle wrap and I have Nissan z32 calipers I will be swapping onto all 4 wheels. This requires me to engineer all the linkage, brake brackets etc.

For now the 620 is on hold. I like working on the 40 because there is SOOOOO many parts available.

 

[Voodoocruisers]

I would recommend taking the top off
@wileycoyote is in Glaskow if you need parts. Good luck.

 

[cbmontgo]

Good work so far. Really looking forward to seeing this one come alive.

The “discovery” phase is always fun too, especially when you open he glove box for the first time. All of it tells a story.

 

[Braden620]

Good work so far. Really looking forward to seeing this one come alive.

The “discovery” phase is always fun too, especially when you open he glove box for the first time. All of it tells a story.

Yes it is. I haven't worked on anything older lately. Its a nice change to be able to get to everything easily. I was pleasantly surprised to not have any difficult bolts yesterday. I only broke one small original hose clamp as it was heavily corroded. Luckily G-pa left me a gallon of PB blaster with refillable bottle, which came in handy.


What is everyone's recommendation on water pump brand? There are a few on Rock Auto that I am not familiar with. I prefer Aisin/OEM but don't want to spend money un necessarily. I did find a NOS water pump in the shed yesterday but its not the correct one.

 

[cbmontgo]

Yes it is. I haven't worked on anything older lately. Its a nice change to be able to get to everything easily. I was pleasantly surprised to not have any difficult bolts yesterday. I only broke one small original hose clamp as it was heavily corroded. Luckily G-pa left me a gallon of PB blaster with refillable bottle, which came in handy.


What is everyone's recommendation on water pump brand? There are a few on Rock Auto that I am not familiar with. I prefer Aisin/OEM but don't want to spend money un necessarily. I did find a NOS water pump in the shed yesterday but its not the correct one.

I strongly suggest Aisin. Call Cruiser Outfitters in Utah and they will get you taken care of.

 

[Pighead]

I did find a NOS water pump in the shed yesterday but its not the correct one.

How is it not correct?

 

[Braden620]

How is it not correct?

We have 10 fj40's of various years (Hard top and soft) and so we have f parts, 2f parts, etc all mixed together. The water pump I found yesterday was for a 72' ish. Here is an example of some door seals I got excited about until I realized they weren't for the 75', but for the 68'. We have piles of parts laying all over the place. I didn't think to grab a pic of the pump.

 

[Braden620]

Realized I forgot a few pics yesterday...