75 2f. Alternator wire white/blue??? (1 Viewer)

[Squirly]

Soneinebstole my manual last week from my 75 fj40. I have a wire at the alternator that is loose and taped. Looks like it should go to the 3rd plug on the connector.
Can anyone confirm what this wire is and if indeed it should be connected to that 3rd input on the connector.
Anything I should check before connecting it?
Image hopefully shows what I mean.
Thanks.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Soneinebstole my manual last week from my 75 fj40. I have a wire at the alternator that is loose and taped. Looks like it should go to the 3rd plug on the connector.
Can anyone confirm what this wire is and if indeed it should be connected to that 3rd input on the connector.
Anything I should check before connecting it?
Image hopefully shows what I mean.
Thanks.

View attachment 3183971

View attachment 3183972

study this TECH Video of mine close ...

10ga white wire w/ blue tracer stripe is ALWAYS your B+ ring terminal wire ....................

 

[Squirly]

study this TECH Video of mine close ...

10ga white wire w/ blue tracer stripe is ALWAYS your B+ ring terminal wire ....................

Thank you. I thought that might be the case as well. Is the red 8g wire here ok? It is direct to battery.
Also is white/blue 12v+?
This is the b+ connector on alternator right?
Fj runs fine. What does the white/blue do?

 

[Squirly]

I couldn't see your video

 

[Squirly]

The large red wire in the pict above is confusing me. Like I said my reoair manual got stolen last week so I am in the dark here.
Btw my AMP meter reads low when running. Lower eith lights on and low low low with lights and heater blower on hi. 4mile trips w lights and heater and 4mileshome without
Check battery today. 12.7v key off.

 

[Grayscale]

The white with blue tracer is supposed to be on the alternator. Think of it as the charge side, the ammeter is in the middle, and the battery is at the end. Basically it looks like the alternator isn't charging, because someone wired it direct to battery.

Post up more pics, I'd bet that we will find more stuff to uncover.

There are two Bs cast into the alternator housing. Use the one closest to the harness plug, I think.

When complete the brass alternator ring terminal should be electrically insulated more than what you see on my truck, above.

 

[Squirly]

The white with blue tracer is supposed to be on the alternator. Think of it as the charge side, the ammeter is in the middle, and the battery is at the end. Basically it looks like the alternator isn't charging, because someone wired it direct to battery.

Post up more pics, I'd bet that we will find more stuff to uncover.

There are two Bs cast into the alternator housing. Use the one closest to the harness plug, I think.

View attachment 3184621


When complete the brass alternator ring terminal should be electrically insulated more than what you see on my truck, above.

That's a lot of help. The previous owner bought truck without gauge cluster/speedo. So maybe he ran straight to battery to overcome lack of amp meter connection. Not sure.
Is this internally regulated?
Is there anything I need to check BEFORE reconnecting the white/blue? Want to make sure I dont blow something that had failed previously amd why they ran the red wire straight to battery.
But like I said I bet it was because he didnt have the gauge cluster amd was trying to get it running

 

[Squirly]

That's a lot of help. The previous owner bought truck without gauge cluster/speedo. So maybe he ran straight to battery to overcome lack of amp meter connection. Not sure.
Is this internally regulated?
Is there anything I need to check BEFORE reconnecting the white/blue? Want to make sure I dont blow something that had failed previously amd why they ran the red wire straight to battery.
But like I said I bet it was because he didnt have the gauge cluster amd was trying to get it running

 

[Grayscale]

It should be fine to hook it up how it is supposed to be if it checks out with the multimeter. With the battery disconnected, multimeter set to ohms, do you have conductivity between the white blue ring terminal and the small wire at the positive post of the battery? Do you not have conductivity to the engine/chassis? Is there a fusible link, which looks like an extra wire attached just after battery positive post? Could you post a pic of battery area to be be sure?

Thread hijack here, notice how the copper lug made that alternator terminal look corroded? The factory used brass in the immediate context of steel parts on wiring harnesses, as far as I can tell; most generic replacement stuff is copper.

 

[Squirly]

L

It should be fine to hook it up how it is supposed to be if it checks out with the multimeter. With the battery disconnected, multimeter set to ohms, do you have conductivity between the white blue ring terminal and the small wire at the positive post of the battery? Do you not have conductivity to the engine/chassis? Is there a fusible link, which looks like an extra wire attached just after battery positive post? Could you post a pic of battery area to be be sure?

Thread hijack here, notice how the copper lug made that alternator terminal look corroded? The factory used brass in the immediate context of steel parts on wiring harnesses, as far as I can tell; most generic replacement stuff is copper.

That's helps so much... i did that test and all seems good however, missing the fusible link as it was hardwired. I'll handle that before I hook it up.

 

[Grayscale]

Like this?

The factory used a certain length of a certain gauge of fusible link here. I can look under the hood if you need data. The fusible link is placed a bit away from the vents on the top of the battery in case of out-gassing during rapid discharge, so this may not apply to AGM and Gel batteries. I think that the above diagram represents something akin to the layout in my truck. The light purple may not look like that (in my experience).

 

[ToyotaMatt]

 

[ToyotaMatt]