74’ FJ40 Clutch Noise (1 Viewer)

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Hi All- Just installed the Pertronix Ignitor II and matching Flamthrower II last night. Results lives up to the hype, but while test driving heard unrelated sound... At a standstill, in neutral, foot off clutch, a sound similar to alt belt slipping was clearly audible. Depressed clutch slightly and went away.

Is this a sign of the clutch wearing? Given the normal position is engaged, is there some adjustment or is the “spring tension” just not strong enough with age?

Never experienced a clutch failing so looking for advice.

Thanks Much,
LR
 
Sounds like a throw out bearing going bad.
JP
 
I have the same issue and I've determined that it is the slave push-rod gently rubbing the clutch release fork due to idle vibrations. Try putting some grease between the two and see if the chirping stops. Easy no-cost check!
 
Is pedal return spring in place?
Pedal height & freeplay set appropriately?
Is the slave cylinder return spring in place?
When looking up into the BH, is there the appropriate gap (1-2mm) between TOB and clutch fingers?
 
I have the same issue and I've determined that it is the slave push-rod gently rubbing the clutch release fork due to idle vibrations. Try putting some grease between the two and see if the chirping stops. Easy no-cost check!

If you have a return spring, there shouldn’t be any “gently rubbing”.
 
Maybe my spring is not applying enough tension? Dunno. I'll check the status of the spring again.
 
At a standstill, in neutral, foot off clutch, a sound similar to alt belt slipping was clearly audible. Depressed clutch slightly and went away.

I had a noise similar to this a couple years ago, I thought it was belt squeal but it ended up to be a dried up crank seals. When you press the clutch in the crankshaft moves forward ever so slightly. The amount of crankshaft movement was not perceptible visually but you could hear a difference in pitch when the clutch was operated. Obviously this points to worn crank bearings but my engine runs well with good oil pressure.

This may not be applicable to your truck but its another option to explore if you cant figure out an alternate theory...
 
Thanks to all! Will need to dig into it when I get time. Doesn’t happen all the time. Really don’t want to dig into the engine…
 
Thanks to all! Will need to dig into it when I get time. Doesn’t happen all the time. Really don’t want to dig into the engine…

Ok, result is this.....increased noise when clutch depressed turned into a lot of noise when engine running and no engagement/drive to wheels. Does this indicate clutch friction discs have worn out or could it be a failure of the clutch bearing that someone had mentioned before? Sounds like bolts bouncing around in a cooking pot.

Thinking of ordering everything up front before tearing open clutch etc...etc apart. Suppose replacing the clutch while in there is smart regardless of the noise. Looked in my Haynes Manual. Clutch job fairly involved....

Also have a leak out of transfer case so will likely just replace seals at same time along with rear main seal...Transmission is beyond my capabilities and works finde so will not dissamble that unless someone has a good reason to....?

Thx-Rick
74’ FJ40, 09’ LC200
692ACA26-C213-4DFE-B85B-B80842C660B4.jpeg
 
you can actually grease the to bearing by making a hole in the tin part and using a pin greaser .then a dab of silicone to seal the hole its temp fix but with grease the noise should go away if that's the problem.last one I greased lasted 3 more years
 
Depends on how loud it is... it could be the input shaft of the transmission. When in neutral it spins making a bit of noise... depressing the clutch makes it stop spinning.

Having someone local look/listen to it would help a lot.

Likely not the clutch itself, but could be the throw out bearing. Do you have some free play when you push the clutch pedal before it touches the release arms?
 
Yes some clearance between rounded slave rod end and release arm.

Have 2 other vehicles, so can get it apart and assess. Bet it’s bearing too, but still requires significant disassembly. Would bearing failure cause lack of friction? No connection to driveline when I activate clutch ....
 
you can actually grease the to bearing by making a hole in the tin part and using a pin greaser .then a dab of silicone to seal the hole its temp fix but with grease the noise should go away if that's the problem.last one I greased lasted 3 more years
I’d be good with that, but definitely sounds like part bouncing around in housing. No longer squeal...
 
Ok- Spoke to Kurt Williams at Cruiser Outfitters, order the parts, delivered, tearing into it this weekend.

Question: What color were the original transmission case and transfer case? Or were they not painted at all? Thinking I wanna do a enamel gray to see leaks and make it easier to clean underneath.

Anyone know?
Thx Rick
 
Got ya! After getting decades of sludge off both, there’s still black paint left on tranny and I see the bare aluminum ....

Next question: Took a day to get tranny and T-Case out without removing trans cover for floor. Most of next day to separate the two from each other...no special tool, per the Haynes Manual and part way through T-case gaskets....

Any more surprises, or just time consuming? Getting old and not even to clutch yet, which was the original issue I’m addressing...

Thx,
Rick
 

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