‘74 FJ40 body dimensions and surgery (1 Viewer)

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Mr. Green

SILVER Star
Joined
Dec 13, 2005
Threads
6
Messages
215
Location
WI
I have been wondering how I can help this cruiser community and finally feel I have an opportunity with the body/tub. May need bits of help confirming dimensions but wanted to get it compiled into an area for lots of folks like myself looking for answers.

I am in the middle of replacing about 75% of my tub due to rust and temporary repair decisions over the last 30 years. Problem I have run into is with the structural integrity of the tub compromised over this period it has gotten out of square and a bit tweaked.

I am attempting to get it as close to original dimensions as possible. Don’t worry I love to take photos… current status below:
8CC403A1-7052-4310-A779-F59EDD9D2D22.jpeg

4DAE450A-8996-441D-B7B1-C13D91202C21.jpeg


I was able to align the marker lights which helped immensely with confidence in the location. Also aligned using a new rear sill as there was literally no sill when I started. The body would flop and clap against the mounts on any roads making less than desirable to enjoy a cruise.

9CDF0CEC-76CD-4BA8-BD4C-691F6507755D.jpeg
06EED230-278A-40DB-9B9A-A1E5B193D570.jpeg

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I have about 25-3/8” from to of B pillar to bottom edge of rocker and quarter panel. Is this close to what others have? I am questioning my old measurements as the gas panel doesn’t align. I’m ok with moving that but want to get opinions first.


9546EB4F-1C59-4523-829B-F49FD63146AA.jpeg


This where it’s skewed… I remember reading 40” between wheel wells which translates to the rear quarter since they are close to flush. I have 41” and change so need to pull this in a bit I believe. Plus, look at the gap on the sill plate.
12801D67-C195-42FE-9B6D-19871C3E5511.jpeg

93DDA491-517C-4029-9C9B-AFC14E7085CB.jpeg

Appreciate any and all help here. I’ll continue to document as I go. Thanks to @waitingfortime for the inspiration to dive in and fix it right. Boy do I hate rust.

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AE88675A-158E-4FCB-A539-E4960FB55578.jpeg
 
I'm on the fence about publishing my numbers for a 1979....but I may do it also. I have loads and loads of numbers from all kinds of angles. The reason
I'm wondering about it is that toyota clearly was allowing lots of slack/variance in some areas .... hence the vast adjustment that you can make with the
doors and hinges. I'm also sometimes uncertain about what they might have thought was an "important" number to get right every time. By this I mean
that you can measure from the seat riser to the back of the tub ... but did they really think the seat riser was important to get perfect with the rear distance?
You need to pick two points that really need to be "important".

Also the tubs can clearly vary between some years because I'm going to tell you a couple of numbers that show the differences there.

1979 rocker/rear quarter to top of B pillar (25" on driver side. 25 and 2/16" on passenger side)
1979 distance between wheel wells (41") This ALSO matches another Teseven tub that was produced for 1979. That is also the distance
that works well for ambulance doors (not counting) the overhanging door lip.

Here's a pic of another number I have that made me wonder if my original tub was slightly racked over the years..... I'd be curious if you have
a complementary number for comparison.

racked.jpg
 
Great info thanks to all. Yes the wheel skates do work but it’s like any 4 point crab steering, giant pita. Tip is to lock one and pivot as directional uncontrolled pushes are never successful. I am a one man shop and also added a hoist for putting body on and off. Works very well. I rechecked and found 41.25 roughly between my rear span or about same and what wheel wells would be.
I’ll answer on the quality measurements later… but yeah they are road tractors.
 
I rechecked my old bed and it’s definitely 41” between wheel well so I’ll bring that back to square next. I’m just 1/4-3/8” out on that. However, my tub rails get wider towards the back even though I’m in pretty sure it should be parallel.
This is next dimension I’d like to confirm if anyone is willing to check.

B Pillar outside to outside.

1BB8B78B-54F0-4344-BF31-D9D8DEDD64B0.jpeg


Tub rail folded outside edge:
AB3FC971-B2F0-4702-BDBF-26330E5A98C2.jpeg


And this us where my tub runs wide…
D1101452-A990-4256-BB9F-8AB3EFD33432.jpeg
 
I'm on the fence about publishing my numbers for a 1979....but I may do it also. I have loads and loads of numbers from all kinds of angles. The reason
I'm wondering about it is that toyota clearly was allowing lots of slack/variance in some areas .... hence the vast adjustment that you can make with the
doors and hinges. I'm also sometimes uncertain about what they might have thought was an "important" number to get right every time. By this I mean
that you can measure from the seat riser to the back of the tub ... but did they really think the seat riser was important to get perfect with the rear distance?
You need to pick two points that really need to be "important".

Also the tubs can clearly vary between some years because I'm going to tell you a couple of numbers that show the differences there.

1979 rocker/rear quarter to top of B pillar (25" on driver side. 25 and 2/16" on passenger side)
1979 distance between wheel wells (41") This ALSO matches another Teseven tub that was produced for 1979. That is also the distance
that works well for ambulance doors (not counting) the overhanging door lip.

Here's a pic of another number I have that made me wonder if my original tub was slightly racked over the years..... I'd be curious if you have
a complementary number for comparison.

View attachment 3263892
I’m not sure I understand which area you want me to compare after reviewing your diagram. If you can describe further I’d be happy to confirm.

Regarding the pick a point and align, I agree and all I have left is to use bottom of panel from cowl, level or parallel to the rear along a line. The other is using a new rear sill and aligning the new quarters to that. Problem I had though was I had nothing to reference to set top rail because mine was entirely destroyed. Below is what I started with.


4DE1A1B3-105C-4EBD-A868-F90A67A1F673.jpeg
7324C789-E993-402A-B10C-CC86EE159A76.jpeg


EE665219-8A84-433C-9421-21132FA53FA2.jpeg
 
Here's how I finally captured what I think is a good number on the rear bed all the way (including the sill) Basically I strapped a piece of angle iron to the front door opening (at the rear of the opening) and also having the bar lay flat on my seat floor area (this is a 79 so the tank is underneath the tub and the area is flat here). I then strapped a flat bar to the sill so I wouldn't be off on any rounded sill edges) I don't think this works for a 74 since you don't have this raised floor area though. I have a fig for that but I don't want to litter your thread with all my figs. Mine was 49" 12/16 on driver and 49" 11/16 on passenger.

If your on the wheel wells and need numbers for roll bars...tool bags....jump seats...etc. I have all that as well as where all the hinges go in the rear....striker....etc
 
@wimberosa I’ll take any measurements you’ve got. The more easily this info is reachable the more it helps the next 40 owner.

Below are additional dimensions I got including how I squared up and aligned my rear quarters before cutting the panel line.

Right side was aligned.
AFC1CDB8-C581-48EE-B5BF-7422F22B9A42.jpeg


Left side was garbage and needed help.
406911D1-0C8D-44FB-BB6F-169E3919234A.jpeg

BF555EF2-6BC7-449A-9C5E-8194EE644E2E.jpeg


Brought it back in by cutting and rebracing while clamping and squaring it up. I hope I’m doing this right but if not, it’s still 1000 times better than before. (I tell myself that often)
0D94E71E-6A92-44EC-9EB8-67E4D68D48AE.jpeg
 
I brought the width back to 41”.
CD9C84A8-CBDE-421D-BE0C-738C2A6AB455.jpeg



Also confirmed on my tub 17.25” is about the right height from top edge of tub rail to sill bottom. I used RSCP panels.
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163FD03D-8A3F-4D25-A9A0-499B0987F6AB.jpeg


More dimensions on locating barn door holes from my thrashed factory tub (ignore 14-7/8” dimension):
F42E9085-8723-44F9-AB39-C811D31EBE17.jpeg
EABB90FC-FBB2-47F1-875B-F21B17072DAD.jpeg
402D262F-1323-4426-8113-7C40DD44FFAA.jpeg
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D0C65F5D-DFE4-4207-88B7-DF82752AFBC5.jpeg
0FEEF901-85D3-44A3-AA66-5473348DA567.jpeg
 
My best numbers are cleaned up and can be found here at the following link. My original tub was pretty straight for a
1979 and I'm confident in all these numbers.


One point I decided on and what I considered since I noticed you were talking about your spare tire carrier...
The CCOT sill has capture nuts for the latch and rubber hold (not sure what the name of that thing is)...and even
though I could have left my main tire carrier attach connected to the rail (i replaced my wheel wells)..I decided to remove it so I could have
plenty of wiggle room when I finally reposition the carrier back on. Thus I didn't even measure that. I have
leeway to move it around a bit if the sill holes don't perfectly align.
 

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