‘73 FJ40 followed me home. Now updated! 12/10/23 (3 Viewers)
- Thread starter Slapshot
- Start date
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Ok I couldn't figure out how to post it privatley. It broke off here.Congrats @Slapshot !
1973 Is one of My personal Favorite Modle Years like in the TOP 10 !
why ?
because :
- You Have a Intact Reverse Light , Lamp assy , this was a 73 stand alone add one to meat various Safety requirements of various destination markets , such as a overall LUMEN increase , just like the side by side 74's would have with
there updated Rear combo lamps and twin back up lights , to simply see better
at night in reverse ................
- your 73 also has independent FAN FRONT & FAN REAR , fan pull bower motor / heater switch's , this is a feature i strongly believe TOYOTA Engineers
and Design Team members should have continued with in 74 and beyond to
and through 10/85 HJ47's
- having the optional control features like that is so priceless , and helps everyone in the rear jumps feel TEq Cozy , and also can prevent the driver from becoming Vietnam Hot as well ..........
- lastly you have in my opinion Toyota's crowning achievement when it comes
to the whole Pull Switch topic , particularly the back Lit Illuminated Headlights knob USA & Saudi Spec. option and standard feature Rheostat function ........
- this may become a bit Tech'y , so i have posted a few TECH photo's below
to help better explain ..........
- The 73 headlight switch is Designed in a way that the back lit knob Bulb gets
sucked inside the switch as the operator pulls the stalk first to park stop then further out to the full headlights and park position ..........
this simply translates into the Bulb LUMENS Never are further away from the
Poly-Carbonate Fiber Stalk that transmits the Lumens from inside the rear
of the switch assy. body , all the way to the tip that extends deep into the inside of the knob itself .............
there is never any Lumen Loss in any pull stalk position , much unlike the 74-10/85 other back lit knob 40 and 55 series headlight Pull switch designs
that rely on a poorly designed fixed Bulb Design that keeps the bulb stationary
and as the stalk is pulled to further out to park then full head lights
hence , the fixed bulb design becomes further and further away resulting
in a significant Lumens Loss in my opinion ,
but it is what it is , and with the now available updated and Upgrade to a special new Super-Max LED bulb and a new updated fixed position bulb socket Design , 74-10/85 40 series Lumens loss is brought under control much better then before ...
see below tech. photos ...........
again Nice 73 !
- 1974 - 10/85 Fixed Bulb Later design ..
View attachment 2299986
1973 : 1 model year only stand alone design / Bulb Socket affixed to Sliding Interior Switch Box housing ......
View attachment 2299987
OFF position
.
View attachment 2299997
1 Pull detent ball Position / or Park position of Bulb Socket assy .........
View attachment 2299989
2 pulls Detent balls position / or Full on head lights / bulb socket assy.
fully sucked in / drawn inside switch body assy ,............
View attachment 2299998
in summery :
Only history will know why both TOYOTA & OEM parts maker TOKAIRIKA design engineers abandoned such a ahead of its time and fully functional & practical pull switch back lit knob design only after 1 very successful Model
year of Global 1973 FJ40 and other 4# series Land Cruisers sales .....?
@Bear
@Coolerman
Or do you want me to just send you the whole thing knob and all since they were a pair. i mean literally the only thing wrong is the knob post snapped off. I can take a picture of the switch for you. let me get it out really quick.no worries ,
iv got your back here on this hazard switch issue ........
Ok here's the pics.Congrats @Slapshot !
1973 Is one of My personal Favorite Modle Years like in the TOP 10 !
why ?
because :
- You Have a Intact Reverse Light , Lamp assy , this was a 73 stand alone add one to meat various Safety requirements of various destination markets , such as a overall LUMEN increase , just like the side by side 74's would have with
there updated Rear combo lamps and twin back up lights , to simply see better
at night in reverse ................
- your 73 also has independent FAN FRONT & FAN REAR , fan pull bower motor / heater switch's , this is a feature i strongly believe TOYOTA Engineers
and Design Team members should have continued with in 74 and beyond to
and through 10/85 HJ47's
- having the optional control features like that is so priceless , and helps everyone in the rear jumps feel TEq Cozy , and also can prevent the driver from becoming Vietnam Hot as well ..........
- lastly you have in my opinion Toyota's crowning achievement when it comes
to the whole Pull Switch topic , particularly the back Lit Illuminated Headlights knob USA & Saudi Spec. option and standard feature Rheostat function ........
- this may become a bit Tech'y , so i have posted a few TECH photo's below
to help better explain ..........
- The 73 headlight switch is Designed in a way that the back lit knob Bulb gets
sucked inside the switch as the operator pulls the stalk first to park stop then further out to the full headlights and park position ..........
this simply translates into the Bulb LUMENS Never are further away from the
Poly-Carbonate Fiber Stalk that transmits the Lumens from inside the rear
of the switch assy. body , all the way to the tip that extends deep into the inside of the knob itself .............
there is never any Lumen Loss in any pull stalk position , much unlike the 74-10/85 other back lit knob 40 and 55 series headlight Pull switch designs
that rely on a poorly designed fixed Bulb Design that keeps the bulb stationary
and as the stalk is pulled to further out to park then full head lights
hence , the fixed bulb design becomes further and further away resulting
in a significant Lumens Loss in my opinion ,
but it is what it is , and with the now available updated and Upgrade to a special new Super-Max LED bulb and a new updated fixed position bulb socket Design , 74-10/85 40 series Lumens loss is brought under control much better then before ...
see below tech. photos ...........
again Nice 73 !
- 1974 - 10/85 Fixed Bulb Later design ..
View attachment 2299986
1973 : 1 model year only stand alone design / Bulb Socket affixed to Sliding Interior Switch Box housing ......
View attachment 2299987
OFF position
.
View attachment 2299997
1 Pull detent ball Position / or Park position of Bulb Socket assy .........
View attachment 2299989
2 pulls Detent balls position / or Full on head lights / bulb socket assy.
fully sucked in / drawn inside switch body assy ,............
View attachment 2299998
in summery :
Only history will know why both TOYOTA & OEM parts maker TOKAIRIKA design engineers abandoned such a ahead of its time and fully functional & practical pull switch back lit knob design only after 1 very successful Model
year of Global 1973 FJ40 and other 4# series Land Cruisers sales .....?
@Bear
@Coolerman
- Thread starter
- #27
Well it’s officially a “project “. I took a perfectly good truck (albeit a gassy smelling one) and turned it into non operating yard decoration. See my other thread about the fuel gauge sender. Hopefully tomorrow the new sender will show up and I can make it run again.
But at least I got a small victory today. I received the appropriate knobs for the twin sticks from Advanced Adapters. They actually fit and look a lot better than the chrome pistons!
But at least I got a small victory today. I received the appropriate knobs for the twin sticks from Advanced Adapters. They actually fit and look a lot better than the chrome pistons!
That fuel separator, the funny looking plastic thing your picture of spare parts, right under the speedo...
REINSTALL IT CORRECTLY.
Mine had 3 vents off the tank going to the three tubes on the bottom of the separator. A hose off the top goes through a check valve to, I think, the charcoal canister... (make sure it's vented outside, at least). And mount the separator, I'm pretty sure the top should be higher than the top of the gas tank...
After years of driving around a gassy smelling truck with a non functioning gas gauge, last month I finally replaced the sending unit, and pulled the tank cover to do so. Finding the PO mucked all the venting up so I corrected it. And, it still smells kinda oily cause my carb's all wacked and it runs way too rich... But it doesn't smell like that when it's not running anymore at least.
- Thread starter
- #30
I’m going to update my thread. This isn’t a “build” but more of a return to normal, sort of.
I wanted to repaint the rear bumperettes, but one thing led to another and I stripped everything off of the back.
Repaired all the past insults to the wiring(thanks Coolerman) and repainted everything. Installed with new SS hardware.
I wanted to repaint the rear bumperettes, but one thing led to another and I stripped everything off of the back.
Repaired all the past insults to the wiring(thanks Coolerman) and repainted everything. Installed with new SS hardware.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Looks amazing!!
- Thread starter
- #33
Next on my to do list was the tires and wheels. The 33x12.5s on the chrome wheels didn’t look right to me and the spare was for looks only.
I found a new set of 5 Toyota 15x5.5 wheels and caps on eBay shipped to me for $798. Which was cheaper than my local Toyota dealer. After going around with America’s tire , who would not mount them, I got a guy I know who does big rig tires to mount the the 33x10.5 BFG A/Ts. Totally transformed the look and feel of my truck.
I found a new set of 5 Toyota 15x5.5 wheels and caps on eBay shipped to me for $798. Which was cheaper than my local Toyota dealer. After going around with America’s tire , who would not mount them, I got a guy I know who does big rig tires to mount the the 33x10.5 BFG A/Ts. Totally transformed the look and feel of my truck.
dmaddox
SILVER Star
Sharp! Should paint the wheels the stock gray. It really would pop with the white color.
Keep up the great work!
Keep up the great work!
- Thread starter
- #35
I did hook up the fuel tank vent lines. Has reduced the gas smell considerably!
- Thread starter
- #36
Thanks ! There was much deliberation over the wheel color. I did a photoshop comparison between gray and black. I looked at a ton of pictures. I was on the fence and my wife and sons all voted black. Same anguish over white letters!
Down the road if/when I repaint I might go gray. Wheels, my hair is already there!
sterling
SILVER Star
Thank you for reading my mind on the shift knobs, looks 100% better imop. When I bought my oem front bumper I was surprised at how affordable it was. Truck is coming along nicely.
- Thread starter
- #40
Here what I’ve been up to lately. I decided to go with aftermarket seats to get some more legroom. I settled on Procar “pro 90” with headrest. I like their retro vibe. I also bought the adapter brackets. Since I was going this far I thought I’d address the leaky gas tank while I was at it.
So let’s open a can of worms!
After draining and removing the old tank, I was a pleasantly surprised to find only a small bit of rust
I got this replacement tank from a guy on CL. included was a tank cover that the early ’73s didn’t have.
Lots of paint stripping and new painted parts back in
So let’s open a can of worms!
After draining and removing the old tank, I was a pleasantly surprised to find only a small bit of rust
I got this replacement tank from a guy on CL. included was a tank cover that the early ’73s didn’t have.
Lots of paint stripping and new painted parts back in
