‘73 FJ40 followed me home. Now updated! 12/10/23 (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jan 9, 2020
Threads
22
Messages
590
Location
NorCal
Well after a year of searching, and looking at a lot of over priced rusty crap, I found my truck.
And purists might want to avert your eyes. It has a 327 Chevy, non factory paint and big ass tires!

I was looking for something more stock but the positives of this truck outweighs the negatives. Time will tell.

The good.
-RUST FREE BODY AND FRAME! There are some spots where the hardware is rusting, but the tub and frame look awesome. No signs of patching or fillers.
-Very drive able. The engine is fresh (allegedly, more on that later) and the 4speed shifts great. Power steering and 4 wheel power disc brakes. I’ve seen some other V8 conversions, that looked half baked, but I think this one was done right.
-The tires are like new, all match good quality.
-Then interior is clean and doesn’t creep my wife out. (Except for the gas smell)

The bad.
-Raw gas leaking out of the top of the gas tank. Hopefully an easy fix.
-The paint looks great from 20’ but closer inspection shows a half assed job. Tape off and re spray. Non factory color.
-Tires and suspension. Looks like an older Rancho 4” lift. Kinda saggy in the back and too high in front. The 33x12.50 tires on 15” wheels are too big for this truck IMO.
-The PO just put a new carburetor on it but didn’t hook up the automatic choke. Idle needs adjusting. I might have to farm this one out. I haven’t messed with an old school V8 in a long time.

I got it for a fair price. Not a screaming deal, but he probably could have gotten more. The PO really didn’t know much about this truck. I think it as an impulse buy on his part. He had a lot of toys and projects and claimed he needed to move something out. No documentation to back up anything ( fresh crate motor!) but I didn’t really care. The bones are solid and I can change whatever I don’t like.

So take a look and let me know what you think! Don’t hold back, I’m not emotionally attached and won’t get upset. I’ve already started to “un-pimp” some stuff. And it’s only time and money right?
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That’s a nice 40. I’m a chrome wheel hater, and those seats are like Jake from State Farm. Hideous.

Other than that, very solid restomod.
 
Congrats! Looks like a great start!! For looks alone, some steelies and narrower 33’s would go a long way imo. Other than than, dial it in and enjoy!
I totally agree. It’s one of the first things I want to do.

That’s a nice 40. I’m a chrome wheel hater, and those seats are like Jake from State Farm. Hideous.

Other than that, very solid restomod.
I’m wondering if they are a stock Toyota product? I have headrests that I think go with them.
 
Very nice rig and proportionally done right IMO. Now I'm trying to figure out how you posted 6 pics when it always cuts me off at 5 per post :dead:
 
Well after a year of searching, and looking at a lot of over priced rusty crap, I found my truck.
And purists might want to avert your eyes. It has a 327 Chevy, non factory paint and big ass tires!

I was looking for something more stock but the positives of this truck outweighs the negatives. Time will tell.

The good.
-RUST FREE BODY AND FRAME! There are some spots where the hardware is rusting, but the tub and frame look awesome. No signs of patching or fillers.
-Very drive able. The engine is fresh (allegedly, more on that later) and the 4speed shifts great. Power steering and 4 wheel power disc brakes. I’ve seen some other V8 conversions, that looked half baked, but I think this one was done right.
-The tires are like new, all match good quality.
-Then interior is clean and doesn’t creep my wife out. (Except for the gas smell)

The bad.
-Raw gas leaking out of the top of the gas tank. Hopefully an easy fix.
-The paint looks great from 20’ but closer inspection shows a half assed job. Tape off and re spray. Non factory color.
-Tires and suspension. Looks like an older Rancho 4” lift. Kinda saggy in the back and too high in front. The 33x12.50 tires on 15” wheels are too big for this truck IMO.
-The PO just put a new carburetor on it but didn’t hook up the automatic choke. Idle needs adjusting. I might have to farm this one out. I haven’t messed with an old school V8 in a long time.

I got it for a fair price. Not a screaming deal, but he probably could have gotten more. The PO really didn’t know much about this truck. I think it as an impulse buy on his part. He had a lot of toys and projects and claimed he needed to move something out. No documentation to back up anything ( fresh crate motor!) but I didn’t really care. The bones are solid and I can change whatever I don’t like.

So take a look and let me know what you think! Don’t hold back, I’m not emotionally attached and won’t get upset. I’ve already started to “un-pimp” some stuff. And it’s only time and money right?View attachment 2299729View attachment 2299730View attachment 2299731View attachment 2299732View attachment 2299734View attachment 2299729View attachment 2299730View attachment 2299731View attachment 2299732View attachment 2299734


Congrats @Slapshot !

1973 Is one of My personal Favorite Modle Years like in the TOP 10 !

why ?

because :

- You Have a Intact Reverse Light , Lamp assy , this was a 73 stand alone add one to meat various Safety requirements of various destination markets , such as a overall LUMEN increase , just like the side by side 74's would have with
there updated Rear combo lamps and twin back up lights , to simply see better
at night in reverse ................

- your 73 also has independent FAN FRONT & FAN REAR , fan pull bower motor / heater switch's , this is a feature i strongly believe TOYOTA Engineers
and Design Team members should have continued with in 74 and beyond to
and through 10/85 HJ47's

- having the optional control features like that is so priceless , and helps everyone in the rear jumps feel TEq Cozy , and also can prevent the driver from becoming Vietnam Hot as well ..........

- lastly you have in my opinion Toyota's crowning achievement when it comes
to the whole Pull Switch topic , particularly the back Lit Illuminated Headlights knob USA & Saudi Spec. option and standard feature Rheostat function ........


- this may become a bit Tech'y , so i have posted a few TECH photo's below
to help better explain ..........

- The 73 headlight switch is Designed in a way that the back lit knob Bulb gets
sucked inside the switch as the operator pulls the stalk first to park stop then further out to the full headlights and park position ..........

this simply translates into the Bulb LUMENS Never are further away from the
Poly-Carbonate Fiber Stalk that transmits the Lumens from inside the rear
of the switch assy. body , all the way to the tip that extends deep into the inside of the knob itself .............

there is never any Lumen Loss in any pull stalk position , much unlike the 74-10/85 other back lit knob 40 and 55 series headlight Pull switch designs
that rely on a poorly designed fixed Bulb Design that keeps the bulb stationary
and as the stalk is pulled to further out to park then full head lights

hence , the fixed bulb design becomes further and further away resulting
in a significant Lumens Loss in my opinion ,

but it is what it is , and with the now available updated and Upgrade to a special new Super-Max LED bulb and a new updated fixed position bulb socket Design , 74-10/85 40 series Lumens loss is brought under control much better then before ... :)


see below tech. photos ...........

again Nice 73 !


- 1974 - 10/85 Fixed Bulb Later design ..

DSCN2429.JPG



1973 : 1 model year only stand alone design / Bulb Socket affixed to Sliding Interior Switch Box housing ......

DSCN2432.JPG



OFF position
.
DSCN2433.JPG



1 Pull detent ball Position / or Park position of Bulb Socket assy .........


DSCN2443.JPG


2 pulls Detent balls position / or Full on head lights / bulb socket assy.
fully sucked in / drawn inside switch body assy ,............


DSCN2444.JPG





in summery :

Only history will know why both TOYOTA & OEM parts maker TOKAIRIKA design engineers abandoned such a ahead of its time and fully functional & practical pull switch back lit knob design only after 1 very successful Model
year of Global 1973 FJ40 and other 4# series Land Cruisers sales .....?



@Bear
@Coolerman
 
Last edited:
Congrats @Slapshot !

1973 Is one of My personal Favorite Modle Years like in the TOP 10 !

why ?

because :

- You Have a Intact Reverse Light , Lamp assy , this was a 73 stand alone add one to meat various Safety requirements of various destination markets , such as a overall LUMEN increase , just like the side by side 74's would have with
there updated Rear combo lamps and twin back up lights , to simply see better
at night in reverse ................

- your 73 also has independent FAN FRONT & FAN REAR , fan pull bower motor / heater switch's , this is a feature i strongly believe TOYOTA Engineers
and Design Team members should have continued with in 74 and beyond to
and through 10/85 HJ47's

- having the optional control features like that is so priceless , and helps everyone in the rear jumps feel TEq Cozy , and also can prevent the driver from becoming Vietnam Hot as well ..........

- lastly you have in my opinion Toyota's crowning achievement when it comes
to the whole Pull Switch topic , particularly the back Lit Illuminated Headlights knob USA & Saudi Spec. option and standard feature Rheostat function ........


- this may become a bit Tech'y , so i have posted a few TECH photo's below
to help better explain ..........

- The 73 headlight switch is Designed in a way that the back lit knob Bulb gets
sucked inside the switch as the operator pulls the stalk first to park stop then further out to the full headlights and park position ..........

this simply translates into the Bulb LUMENS Never are further away from the
Poly-Carbonate Fiber Stalk that transmits the Lumens from inside the rear
of the switch assy. body , all the way to the tip that extends deep into the inside of the knob itself .............

there is never any Lumen Loss in any pull stalk position , much unlike the 74-10/85 other back lit knob 40 and 55 series headlight Pull switch designs
that rely on a poorly designed fixed Bulb Design that keeps the bulb stationary
and as the stalk is pulled to further out to park then full head lights

hence , the fixed bulb design becomes further and further away resulting
in a significant Lumens Loss in my opinion ,

but it is what it is , and with the now available updated and Upgrade to a special new Super-Max LED bulb and a new updated fixed position bulb socket Design , 74-10/85 40 series Lumens loss is brought under control much better then before ... :)


see below tech. photos ...........

again Nice 73 !


- 1974 - 10/85 Fixed Bulb Later design ..

View attachment 2299986


1973 : 1 model year only stand alone design / Bulb Socket affixed to Sliding Interior Switch Box housing ......

View attachment 2299987


OFF position
.
View attachment 2299997


1 Pull detent ball Position / or Park position of Bulb Socket assy .........


View attachment 2299989

2 pulls Detent balls position / or Full on head lights / bulb socket assy.
fully sucked in / drawn inside switch body assy ,............


View attachment 2299998




in summery :

Only history will know why both TOYOTA & OEM parts maker TOKAIRIKA design engineers abandoned such a ahead of its time and fully functional & practical pull switch back lit knob design only after 1 very successful Model
year of Global 1973 FJ40 and other 4# series Land Cruisers sales .....?


@Bear
@Coolerman

Thanks for the ‘73 history lesson/info. My headlight knob doesn’t light up so I’ll have to investigate it.
 
If you haven’t driven a 40 series before, I would definitely hold off on swapping out the wheels for a little while. While they are bulky, they do provide you with some extra lateral stability on a SWB, high COG vehicle...with a lot of ponies under the hood! :eek:

Stock rims are :cool: , but they don’t corner as well. I ended up having my stock rims widened on my trail rig. Best of both worlds. Enjoy

www.marksoffroad.net
 

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