72 Model 40. Long term project and advice appreciated (1 Viewer)

[WP40]

I acquired this 1972 model earlier in the month. I'm new to the realm of old fixer uppers so I'm looking forward to learning throughout this process. I call myself doing a fair amount of research before we (wife and I) bought it. It will be a long term project, repairing/replacing/painting over the months/years as our hobby. There's no time frame for the full completion, but there are some things that need immediate attention.

Some of the background info:

- Cranks right up and sounds nice. I've driven it some, no more than 25mph. I have to figure out a clutch issue.
- The previous owner did a fair amount of body work to rid it of rust in the usual places- of which I am thankful.
- He also had it sandblasted to check for hidden rust. Therefore, the whole body is bare metal.
- The interior had fitty-leven coats of paint, so he began to remove that with some CitriStrip.
- Odometer shows 66K, so I'm wondering if it has rolled over or not.

Our ultimate goal is to get it in reliable condition so we can take it to the farm (40 miles) for the weekend, and to take short trips to town. I have a laundry list of things to on it.

I have many questions, some of which I've been able to find here on the forum, YouTube, and some manuals I've been able to download. So thanks ahead of time.

 

[WP40]

Regarding the carb and vacuum system going to the engine...
It is a Weber DGAV 33B1 with what appears to be "035/20"
- It has a vacuum line going to the distributor.
- It has a vacuum line that is capped off, and from my research of other engine pictures, this capped off line should be going to my engine. It isn't, and the engine has an open pipe with nothing going to it. (I don't know the proper terminology)
- On top of the engine, there is a line that goes to nowhere...In other pictures, I see this line going to the carb...but I can't tell where it would go on my setup...

So I'm not sure what those vacuum lines do, and it would only make sense to me for them to connect to the proper places. The engine cranks right up and idles well (although I think I need to increase the idle slightly).

What do I need to do about this?

 

[B y r o n]

If the body is bare metal get some epoxy primer on it at minimum.

 

[WP40]

If the body is bare metal get some epoxy primer on it at minimum.

Yep! That's #1 on the list. Epoxy primer seems to be the consensus most places. Gonna start cleaning it up and putting it on there ASAP.

 

[zerotreedelta]

Epoxy is generally the way to go these days, but the topcoat window is usually right around a week. After that, it would need to get sanded/scuffed.

Depending on your timing, you could also clean off the surface rust and shoot some light etching primer, then just wipe it off later before doing the final the epoxy primer closer to actual paint (Somewhat a hedge on the work for scuffing epoxy vs wiping off the etch with acetone.)

Both work, just depends on what metalwork might be left (easier to work around the etch) and timing for final paint.

 

[Pighead]

The open pipe looks like your PCV valve and usually has a hose that connects to somewhere around the carburetor, the hose on top of the engine is a vent from the valve cover and traditionally would vent to the air filter

 

[Dizzy]

I generally don't think that epoxy paint is going to prevent catastrophe. I'd love a bare steel patina cruiser! Personally, some 320 grit silicon carbide wet/dry paper for smoothness and shine. Then apply Fluid Film (it is like the army surplus store smell in a can). Only at folds, and overlaps do I have serious rust cancer, on my body, and epoxy primer just isn't going to get in there, but Fluid Film might. Right now, you'd have to reblast or convert the rust on the various surfaces before you paint, if you were going that route.

 

[bhsdriller]

I'd just get it running and stopping reliably then enjoy

 

[Downey]

Stuff to look at for future reference:
1. Downey fuel injection conversion, ebay #254371192038
2. Bitchin/better tail lamps, ebay #255088209234
3. Bitchin glove box door, ebay #255159546926 (or 6936, can't read my own writing)

Just Saying!!!!!!!!, enjoy the build.

 

[WP40]

The open pipe looks like your PCV valve and usually has a hose that connects to somewhere around the carburetor, the hose on top of the engine is a vent from the valve cover and traditionally would vent to the air filter

Thank you! That helps point me in the right direction.

 

[Pighead]

I don't suppose that when you bought it, there was a bunch of old parts in the back? Like the original carb and air filter and stuff?

 

[Dizzy]

On a Weber, a barb connects on the lower plate of the air filter assembly, there is a hole there. I wouldn't get too excited about maintaining that setup. My Weber filter would get holes in it from sand shot directly from the fan, (on my Nissan pickup). Also, a spare filter was stored with the top and bottom plate, and the clips squished the filter, so it no longer holds the clip tight on that one side. They are a bit expensive as well, and hard to shop for, as there are a couple of heights, and not always advertised with dimensions, plus shipping. I've gone thru three filters, plus the one that was the wrong size, in about 10,000 miles, five years, on my pickup, they don't last long, and you find out when you are cleaning mud out of the filter assembly and carb air horn.

I'm not saying that a Cruiser can't run a Weber, it is just the details of doing it can be overwhelming, relative to doing a stock setup. Well, for now, there probably will be a day when used air cleaners and such dry up, but, that isn't quite today's reality. The DGEV, wouldn't be my starting point for a Weber on an F, but, it might be working just fine.

 

[WP40]

I don't suppose that when you bought it, there was a bunch of old parts in the back? Like the original carb and air filter and stuff?

None of that unfortunately. Just the OEM front driver seat, passenger seat frame, spare tire and the carrier for it.

 

[WP40]

On a Weber, a barb connects on the lower plate of the air filter assembly, there is a hole there. I wouldn't get too excited about maintaining that setup. My Weber filter would get holes in it from sand shot directly from the fan, (on my Nissan pickup). Also, a spare filter was stored with the top and bottom plate, and the clips squished the filter, so it no longer holds the clip tight on that one side. They are a bit expensive as well, and hard to shop for, as there are a couple of heights, and not always advertised with dimensions, plus shipping. I've gone thru three filters, plus the one that was the wrong size, in about 10,000 miles, five years, on my pickup, they don't last long, and you find out when you are cleaning mud out of the filter assembly and carb air horn.

I'm not saying that a Cruiser can't run a Weber, it is just the details of doing it can be overwhelming, relative to doing a stock setup. Well, for now, there probably will be a day when used air cleaners and such dry up, but, that isn't quite today's reality. The DGEV, wouldn't be my starting point for a Weber on an F, but, it might be working just fine.

Thanks for the heads up on the Weber. I've never dealt with them before. I took off the air filter today and saw the hole of the lower plate you're talking about. I assume there is a specific connector I'll buy to place there? I also took note of how the filter was mistaken for a dove and appeared to be shot with #8, so I'll add a new one to the list.

 

[Dizzy]

There is a vacuum barb on a part called a 'gas filter' on top of the intake manifold, in front of the carb. About a 3mm diameter barb, it needs capping.

 

[65swb45]

So the hose running across your valve cover is the ‘positive’ side of the PCV system. It goes from the check valve on the passenger side of the block to the tube on the base of the carburetor.