71 Patina shop truck build on the cheap

cruisermatt

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I may have started this thread pre-maturely. between customer work and shop renovation I have had just about zero time to work on this 40 along with my other project vehicles.
I did take some zen time this weekend and get the motor yanked out and do some cleaning. I was getting tired of the shower of rust and dirt every time the 40 got pushed around.

The P.O. had added a few radio accessories but amazingly its looking like this 40 has all of the original wiring intact and in good shape. Really happy about that.

I’m figuring that at a minimum the master cylinders are shot, should i just go ahead and figure the booster diaphragm is shot as well?

anyone need column shift linkage parts, or steering box before I cut this one for power steering?

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Your about 20 bolts away from having that down to a bare frame. Might as well yank the tub, sandblast the frame and axles and por15 it. Maybe even split the frame before sandblasting. Would give a really clean canvas to start from and give it huge potential to be a really sweet ride if you ever wanted to make it cherry. I imaging the entire brake system is shot. I would keep the column shift for a later need.
 

cruisermatt

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Your about 20 bolts away from having that down to a bare frame. Might as well yank the tub, sandblast the frame and axles and por15 it. Maybe even split the frame before sandblasting. Would give a really clean canvas to start from and give it huge potential to be a really sweet ride if you ever wanted to make it cherry. I imaging the entire brake system is shot. I would keep the column shift for a later need.

the thought crossed my mind. However right now that is a way bigger project then I want to get into space/time/mess-wise.

Additionally this tub is SHOT. I didnt post pictures of the lower area behind the seat mounts / seatbelt bolts.
It’s not coming off until the LPB conversion happens.

For now though I am going to play around with the rust converter like @wngrog uses.
 
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anyone need column shift linkage parts, or steering box before I cut this one for power steering?
Rather than cutting my column shift column and putting a bushing in, I was kicking around the idea of keeping it intact (to save or sell to someone else) then using a hot rod style column and clamping the OEM turn signal switch to it. Still way off on the horizon for me but its a thought
 

cruisermatt

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What is the consensus on the original dash mounted H-N-L lever being able to actuate the splitcase range selector? I figure at minimum I’ll need to lengthen the linkage rod that runs from the bellhousing to the t-case.
 
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Your about 20 bolts away from having that down to a bare frame. Might as well yank the tub, sandblast the frame and axles and por15 it. Maybe even split the frame before sandblasting. Would give a really clean canvas to start from and give it huge potential to be a really sweet ride if you ever wanted to make it cherry. I imaging the entire brake system is shot. I would keep the column shift for a later need.
That’s the devil I say!!! Project creep is real. That being said if you want a pristine 40, hes right. But I lost a ton of time(well worth the effort) this winter on body work. If I had stayed focused on the engine swap, I’d be on the road right now.
 

cruisermatt

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Had a few minutes last night after some shop projects so decided remove the AC stuff from the 2F, and work on getting the clutch and flywheel out from the old F155/3-speed combo as i plan to re use them with the 2F/H42.

ugh. F engine completely seized with two pressure plate bolts up inside the bellhousing. I didn’t have a 1/4-drive ratchet so will attempt that before torching the bellhousing off :lol: I seem to recall running into this from when I threw a rod in my FJ62 when I was in high school.

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cruisermatt

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Drilled the F motor mount brackets out to 12mm, and started looking at the pivot for the HNL shifter. I am going to make a transmission crossmember in favor of bellhousing mounts so i can have a easier time clearancing the frame rail for the FJ62 vacuum pod, and I’ll make a simple plate to hold this shifter pivot. I think I need to figure something out for the clutch slave as well.

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Need to turn my free-time attention back my turbo LS BMW which has some racing coming up soon. Funny how that entire build costs less then a rusty old FJ40 that sat in a field for 25 years. :lol:

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cruisermatt

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So I bought a non-matching pair of earlier aprons from @bmoonhajjar since I would like to back-date the front of the truck (tuna-cans and bib lights) and I would like to avoid welding on my original aprons for now, one of them had a gold paint but looked like the backside was a matching color to mine. I was hoping to scrub the gold off and have at least one matching early apron.

well it looks like someone did a repaint on the tan at some point and i scrubbed right down to the primer easily.
However i think the original (Coronado beige?) paint on the inside confirms my 40 is Cygnus white? The difference is a little more stark in person.

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So I bought a non-matching pair of earlier aprons from @bmoonhajjar since I would like to back-date the front of the truck (tuna-cans and bib lights) and I would like to avoid welding on my original aprons for now, one of them had a gold paint but looked like the backside was a matching color to mine. I was hoping to scrub the gold off and have at least one matching early apron.

well it looks like someone did a repaint on the tan at some point and i scrubbed right down to the primer easily.
However i think the original (Coronado beige?) paint on the inside confirms my 40 is Cygnus white? The difference is a little more stark in person.

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This is free advice, so take it as you will. As much as I love mine all one color as it is now, I miss the patches look of my look before the refresh. Hood, cowl, aprons, bezel and bib were stock “patina” biege. Tub was oxidized aluminum, bumpers were bare steel. One fender was battered blue and the other was bare metal with a touch of pink bondo. It wore on the wife( who loves running around town), so I said what the heck. Now I miss the battered/“one pice at a time” look.

on a related note, I agree with the earlier bib lights and tuna cans. The late model 40 combination lights just seem out of place to me on a utilitarian vehicle. Just my two cents.
 

cruisermatt

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This is free advice, so take it as you will. As much as I love mine all one color as it is now, I miss the patches look of my look before the refresh. Hood, cowl, aprons, bezel and bib were stock “patina” biege. Tub was oxidized aluminum, bumpers were bare steel. One fender was battered blue and the other was bare metal with a touch of pink bondo. It wore on the wife( who loves running around town), so I said what the heck. Now I miss the battered/“one pice at a time” look.

on a related note, I agree with the earlier bib lights and tuna cans. The late model 40 combination lights just seem out of place to me on a utilitarian vehicle. Just my two cents.

I’m not planning on painting anything up front. I’m going to try and paint match the rear when I do the LPB conversion. Patina match will naturally follow when i use it as a work truck daily afterwards.

I hear what you’re saying but I dont really want too much “chaos”
the spring green is going away in favor of the matching original white hood (still in NC). I may leave the left apron red.

Unless someone has one to trade :D

 

cruisermatt

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Ok question time.
I was planning on running the F/3-speed clutch/flywheel, slave, fork plumbing etc, I have a 60 4-speed bellhousing (81-85) that I just realized doesn't have the hole on the left side for a clutch fork.
I don't think the fork/slave is going to clear the linkage pivot for the HNL on the right side.
Any one know for sure before I mill a hole in the left side of the bellhousing for a fork and drill a hole for a fork pivot?

Any one know if can use a 2F/late fork and throwout bearing with the 3-finger pressure plate?

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Also. My 2 minute solution to get the last two pressure plate bolts on a locked up engine. :)

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Got my shop bathroom done this morning too. :)

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cruisermatt

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Minor, but F motor mounts on, and decided to just run a 40 alternator in the stock location for now (so i can use the stock wiring and VR) and also decided to run the manual steering for now just to get moving faster.

Would really like to get this running and driving before the end of the year and the $350 for PS parts would be much better put towards a new gas tank.

i would like to clean this greasy 2F up a bit more, delete the oil cooler, clean the grime off the motor mounts etc but this motor actually has only 20psi of compression on #5 so it will come out for some freshening up at a later date. It does run though, just smokes so going to run it.

Planning to stick with the almost new 61180 dizzy thats in it so I’ll probably pull the dented side cover to put in the stash.

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ceylonfj40nut

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Ok question time.
I was planning on running the F/3-speed clutch/flywheel, slave, fork plumbing etc, I have a 60 4-speed bellhousing (81-85) that I just realized doesn't have the hole on the left side for a clutch fork.
I don't think the fork/slave is going to clear the linkage pivot for the HNL on the right side.
Any one know for sure before I mill a hole in the left side of the bellhousing for a fork and drill a hole for a fork pivot?

Any one know if can use a 2F/late fork and throwout bearing with the 3-finger pressure plate?

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Also. My 2 minute solution to get the last two pressure plate bolts on a locked up engine. :)

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Got my shop bathroom done this morning too. :)

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Might need some matches. That vent fan can’t keep up.
 

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