- Location
- United States
SOLD
Selling my 40
Yep, title pretty much tells it all. Circumstances (business is very slow) require that I sell my cruiser I've owned since 2005. Really sick and sad to see it go but nevertheless...
Specs:
71FJ40, unknown actual mileage.
78 2F engine
78 4-speed and transfer case
NO RUST AT ALL
35" BFG Muds. Spare is brand new.
78 2F engine, rebuilt by the same people that do Man-A-Fre rebuilds. It's one of the hopped-up versions.
DUI Distributor
Man-A-Fre headers
Turbo City Throttle-body EFI. Based on a Chevy 4.3 Astro Van EFI system. The ECU is located in the glovebox. O2 sensor installed just downstream of the header. Even has a check engine light. I have all the documentation on this.
Electric fuel pump
All new fuel hoses and hard lines
New (2 years) old stock Toyota fuel tank and correct fuel tank cap
Never runs hot, no leaks, etc.
K&N filter in an old school very rare Downey Off Road aluminum air filter holder. NOT waterproof in any way.
Drivetrain
78 4-speed transmission
78 "4-speed" transfer case
Newer driveshafts
Man-A-Fre front disc brakes (4-piston Wilwood calipers, slotted/drilled/vented rotors, stainless brake lines)
Man-A-Fre rear disc brakes, installed less than a month ago. Similar rotors, single-piston calipers
The master cylinder looks newer, I never changed it but it doesn't look original.
Later model steering column with ignition switch in column and turn signal switch. Aftermarket Grant GT wheel, the horn isn't hooked up.
35" BFG Mud Terrains, fronts are very good, rears are worn but usable, spare is new. Wheels are American Racing black steelies. 2.5" aluminum billet bolt-on spacers on all 4 corners. Fronts are there to clear the calipers, rears are there to match the front. I've never had a single issue with these spacers I purchased them from All-Pro Off Road and they are very high quality.
Custom wiring harness, I re-wired the entire vehicle about a year or so ago, used parts and wiring from Coolerman for as much compatability as possible with stock wiring and used the stock wire colors and routing. What's "custom" is that I left out several things I didn't think a dedicated trail rig needed, such as turn signals / marker lights, heater fan controls, etc. It has a Blue Sea Systems standard blade-type fuse panel mounted in the stock location. When I did the wiring I installed a new ignition switch, new light switch, new wiper control switch. Also installed LED rear tail lights. I removed the speedometer in favor of a tachometer, and it has all Auto Meter aftermaket gauges in a custom panel (fuel, water temp, oil pressure, AMPs, tach). The gauges all light up and work as expected.
Suspension: 4" Spring-Under Man-A-Fre springs, anti-inversion rear shackles, front shackle reversal, Rancho RS9000 shocks, greasable shackles, 4-Plus U-bolt flip, etc.
FJ60 power steering kit from JT Outfitters. Saginaw pump, FJ60 box, bracket on frame for '60 box... works fine on the street, it's a little weak in the rocks but it also have a smaller steering wheel and 35s...
Trail armor: Metal-tech front stinger. Metal tech full family cage with ALL upgrades available at the time. All additional spreaders in the top, spreader bar across the dash, hand-holds on the A pillar bar, A-pillar bar has the bends to go around the dash, angled bar between b and c pillars in back, and I also went with the frame tie-ins, the cage bolts to the frame tie-ins which are welded to the frame, the body is sandwiched between at all 4 corners. Plus the Beard seats are mounted to the cage with no connection to the body at all. This was an extra upgrade I had added later by Desert Dog Off-Road in Fountain Hills, AZ. 4-Plus rocker panel slider/steps with grip tape. 4-Plus rear tire/cooler carrier, added a license plate light and Hi-Lift brackets. Also has Metal-Tech tube doors and new strikers with stainless steel door hinges as I could not find decent plain steel ones.
The 40 was painted flat desert tan by the previous owner. It's a very nice job, except they kind of covered up the hood seam and painted over it. This has since come off and you can see it was originally red. Other than that it looks great and is very easy to maintain.
The PO "coated" the interior with bedliner and didn't do a great job. It's been slowly chipping off.
In no order, misc other parts I've replaced:
Optima red-top battery
little rubber thingies for the hood and grille bezel
"Land Cruiser" emblems on the aprons
Fuel tank
pedal pads
shifter knobs
Other misc stuff I can't remember now.
The negatives:
No lockers or lower gears.
It has a small transfer case leak. I've been meaning to fix but it's a very slow leak.
No parking brake. The shoes/hardware were trashed and I removed them a long time ago, the drum is still there of course. I have all the parts to rebuild this including a new parking brake cable.
Both front fenders have cracks in the side "bend".
No speedometer: I use a GPS instead. The cable is still there and the Auto-Meter speedometer will be included. The GPS won't be.
The disc brake conversion needs to be finished, it's 90% done. Remove residual valve from master cylinder and possibly install an adjustable proportioning valve.
The wipers aren't connected. I was planning to completely refurbish the wipers (new wiring and go through the mechanism and motor) but haven't done this. I see no reason to believe you couldn't just connect to the harness and switch and be good to go.
It has no heater or heater core or heater fan, etc. I do have all the parts and they are included.
The CB radio isn't connected.
Extra parts misc included:
Full steel hardtop. Red. All glass and hardware is intact, but it's been outside and would need new seals and stuff. The fiberglass top is OK, but the steel along the edges is partly falling off, somebody at one time used 4-5 tubes of silicone to seal the leaks around the edges. The entire top would need to be restored.
2 sets of hard doors. The original red doors and a second set of tan doors from a different cruiser that I was going to make half doors from. Both sets of doors are fully intact with all glass and hardware. The tan doors are kind of rough. No rust, though.
Fuel tank sender (new from Cruiser Corps, never installed)
Parking brake cable (new from Cruiser Corps, never installed)
Parking brake internal parts (new from Spectre, never installed, includes hardware and shoes)
Heater blower fan and heater core
Original carb
I removed the newer large style turn signals, they are around here somewhere
Steering wheel from the later column. The Original wheel is long gone and probably wouldn't fit on the newer column anyway.
A spare 35" BFG MT with 99% tread that doesn't hold air. No idea why and Discount Tire couldn't find the leak.
All the parts I removed when I did the rear disc conversion (drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders) are also included.
I realized I don't have any engine or real interior pics. I'll have those tomorrow.
I'm in Fountain Hills, AZ. PM me or email msahr@ericotech.net or 6 oh two seven 68 31 seven too
PRICE REDUCED TO $14,000
Selling my 40
Yep, title pretty much tells it all. Circumstances (business is very slow) require that I sell my cruiser I've owned since 2005. Really sick and sad to see it go but nevertheless...
Specs:
71FJ40, unknown actual mileage.
78 2F engine
78 4-speed and transfer case
NO RUST AT ALL
35" BFG Muds. Spare is brand new.
78 2F engine, rebuilt by the same people that do Man-A-Fre rebuilds. It's one of the hopped-up versions.
DUI Distributor
Man-A-Fre headers
Turbo City Throttle-body EFI. Based on a Chevy 4.3 Astro Van EFI system. The ECU is located in the glovebox. O2 sensor installed just downstream of the header. Even has a check engine light. I have all the documentation on this.
Electric fuel pump
All new fuel hoses and hard lines
New (2 years) old stock Toyota fuel tank and correct fuel tank cap
Never runs hot, no leaks, etc.
K&N filter in an old school very rare Downey Off Road aluminum air filter holder. NOT waterproof in any way.
Drivetrain
78 4-speed transmission
78 "4-speed" transfer case
Newer driveshafts
Man-A-Fre front disc brakes (4-piston Wilwood calipers, slotted/drilled/vented rotors, stainless brake lines)
Man-A-Fre rear disc brakes, installed less than a month ago. Similar rotors, single-piston calipers
The master cylinder looks newer, I never changed it but it doesn't look original.
Later model steering column with ignition switch in column and turn signal switch. Aftermarket Grant GT wheel, the horn isn't hooked up.
35" BFG Mud Terrains, fronts are very good, rears are worn but usable, spare is new. Wheels are American Racing black steelies. 2.5" aluminum billet bolt-on spacers on all 4 corners. Fronts are there to clear the calipers, rears are there to match the front. I've never had a single issue with these spacers I purchased them from All-Pro Off Road and they are very high quality.
Custom wiring harness, I re-wired the entire vehicle about a year or so ago, used parts and wiring from Coolerman for as much compatability as possible with stock wiring and used the stock wire colors and routing. What's "custom" is that I left out several things I didn't think a dedicated trail rig needed, such as turn signals / marker lights, heater fan controls, etc. It has a Blue Sea Systems standard blade-type fuse panel mounted in the stock location. When I did the wiring I installed a new ignition switch, new light switch, new wiper control switch. Also installed LED rear tail lights. I removed the speedometer in favor of a tachometer, and it has all Auto Meter aftermaket gauges in a custom panel (fuel, water temp, oil pressure, AMPs, tach). The gauges all light up and work as expected.
Suspension: 4" Spring-Under Man-A-Fre springs, anti-inversion rear shackles, front shackle reversal, Rancho RS9000 shocks, greasable shackles, 4-Plus U-bolt flip, etc.
FJ60 power steering kit from JT Outfitters. Saginaw pump, FJ60 box, bracket on frame for '60 box... works fine on the street, it's a little weak in the rocks but it also have a smaller steering wheel and 35s...
Trail armor: Metal-tech front stinger. Metal tech full family cage with ALL upgrades available at the time. All additional spreaders in the top, spreader bar across the dash, hand-holds on the A pillar bar, A-pillar bar has the bends to go around the dash, angled bar between b and c pillars in back, and I also went with the frame tie-ins, the cage bolts to the frame tie-ins which are welded to the frame, the body is sandwiched between at all 4 corners. Plus the Beard seats are mounted to the cage with no connection to the body at all. This was an extra upgrade I had added later by Desert Dog Off-Road in Fountain Hills, AZ. 4-Plus rocker panel slider/steps with grip tape. 4-Plus rear tire/cooler carrier, added a license plate light and Hi-Lift brackets. Also has Metal-Tech tube doors and new strikers with stainless steel door hinges as I could not find decent plain steel ones.
The 40 was painted flat desert tan by the previous owner. It's a very nice job, except they kind of covered up the hood seam and painted over it. This has since come off and you can see it was originally red. Other than that it looks great and is very easy to maintain.
The PO "coated" the interior with bedliner and didn't do a great job. It's been slowly chipping off.
In no order, misc other parts I've replaced:
Optima red-top battery
little rubber thingies for the hood and grille bezel
"Land Cruiser" emblems on the aprons
Fuel tank
pedal pads
shifter knobs
Other misc stuff I can't remember now.
The negatives:
No lockers or lower gears.
It has a small transfer case leak. I've been meaning to fix but it's a very slow leak.
No parking brake. The shoes/hardware were trashed and I removed them a long time ago, the drum is still there of course. I have all the parts to rebuild this including a new parking brake cable.
Both front fenders have cracks in the side "bend".
No speedometer: I use a GPS instead. The cable is still there and the Auto-Meter speedometer will be included. The GPS won't be.
The disc brake conversion needs to be finished, it's 90% done. Remove residual valve from master cylinder and possibly install an adjustable proportioning valve.
The wipers aren't connected. I was planning to completely refurbish the wipers (new wiring and go through the mechanism and motor) but haven't done this. I see no reason to believe you couldn't just connect to the harness and switch and be good to go.
It has no heater or heater core or heater fan, etc. I do have all the parts and they are included.
The CB radio isn't connected.
Extra parts misc included:
Full steel hardtop. Red. All glass and hardware is intact, but it's been outside and would need new seals and stuff. The fiberglass top is OK, but the steel along the edges is partly falling off, somebody at one time used 4-5 tubes of silicone to seal the leaks around the edges. The entire top would need to be restored.
2 sets of hard doors. The original red doors and a second set of tan doors from a different cruiser that I was going to make half doors from. Both sets of doors are fully intact with all glass and hardware. The tan doors are kind of rough. No rust, though.
Fuel tank sender (new from Cruiser Corps, never installed)
Parking brake cable (new from Cruiser Corps, never installed)
Parking brake internal parts (new from Spectre, never installed, includes hardware and shoes)
Heater blower fan and heater core
Original carb
I removed the newer large style turn signals, they are around here somewhere
Steering wheel from the later column. The Original wheel is long gone and probably wouldn't fit on the newer column anyway.
A spare 35" BFG MT with 99% tread that doesn't hold air. No idea why and Discount Tire couldn't find the leak.
All the parts I removed when I did the rear disc conversion (drums, shoes, hardware, wheel cylinders) are also included.
I realized I don't have any engine or real interior pics. I'll have those tomorrow.
I'm in Fountain Hills, AZ. PM me or email msahr@ericotech.net or 6 oh two seven 68 31 seven too
PRICE REDUCED TO $14,000
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