700r4 question

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QuackAxel

QuackAxel

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i got a line on a used 700r4. i will be putting this in my 10/72 fj40 with a 350.

i started a thread on this earlier but somehow it dissapeared???

iv seen 700r4's that say "no electric connections needed". does this mean all dont need them? or is it a special add on? or is that just the older model 700r4's?

im also in need of a adapter for a 3 speed t/case. if i can find one i would like to use the Downey because of spacing. if not the AA adapter is availale.

any info would be sweet!

sorry for the double post.....but i dont know where my other thread went? weird
 
700r4's aren't computer controlled, but mine has an electric connection for the torque converter lockup. I had to rewire a solenoid and the lockup gets wired to the brake light circuit. I got my info and kit from Bowtie Overdrives. Hope that helps.
 
700's are nice, but be careful. I bought two used transmissions. The first turned out to be dead. The second ran for about 200 miles before it died, but was caused by a bad TV cable. I am not sure how long it would have ran it the cable had been good. I recently bought a rebuilt that cost less than the two used transmissions combined price. It's cheaper to just find a good rebuilt with a warranty and not look back.

Yes you normally need some sort of electrical connection to lock the torque converter. I bought and installed one on my current transmission. It's not hard. My second transmission had a modified pump and valve body with a non-locking converter so that it didn't need to be wired. That is fine for wheeling, but costs gas on the highway.
 
Any one got any ideas on how to get my hands on a Downey adapter kit?

Srgould41- what adapter did you use? And did you have a 4 or 3 speed t/case?

Any other helpful hints on the conversion ?
 
Look up "Tojo Products", Jim Sickles new banner, and see if he has any left. I think he is on eBay also. When I bought mine last year he DID NOT have any spud shafts for the 3-speed t-case. When you by a transmission make sure it is the 700R4/4L60 and not a 4L60E. They look largely the same but the 4L60E IS computer controlled. Stay away from the early 700R4's (mid to late 80's) unless you know it has been reworked. If you use the Downey set-up you will be pulling the tranny apart to put in the new output shaft so your tranny guy can look everything over then and see if anything looks marginal. If you have a SOA set-up you'll need to do some additional research regarding the front driveline and there are a few threads floating around on the subject.
I have one in mine. It was well worth the effort and I have never regreted it.
 
what is an "SOA setup"?

would it be in my best interest to go with the AA adapter and just move my rear axel back 3 or 4 inches? which is the least time consuming adapter to use?
 
yea i felt stupid after i typed that.....

any other helpful, time saving ideas or tips for this particular conversion?
 
I used the AA kit and a 2wd transmission. This way all I had to do was cut the tranny output shaft a bit shorter. That was easy.

I used a late model 4speed case. With the auto trans and low first gear of the 700 I don't think you would benefit from the slightly lower gearing of the 3speed case. If you really want the lower gear you could always build a hybrid case, 4speed case with 3speed gears. That is not a beginner job though.

You need to decide which cross member you want to use to mount the tranny/tcase. I used the propellor style because I had it. There are so many arguments for and against each style that I personally think it's just a matter of opinion on which is better.

Keep your engine as far forward as you can get it. Not only for rear driveshaft length, but to get the tcase as high up as possible. I ended up cutting out a section of floor and extended my tunnel cover. The case still sits more than an inch lower than stock. To get mine higher I would need to cut the floor under the fuel tank and install a new tank elsewhere. Plus I would have to use a different rear mount as my propellor mount is very close to the floor now. Or a body lift. :)

You will need to cut out your mid body cross member. Some people replace them some don't. I used a square tube further back to replace mine.

Use a big cooler. As big as you can fit. I bought a B&M. Works great.

You will need a longer e-brake cable. I bought a late model cable and it just fit. You may need a longer speedo cable too.

Last, lots of searching. There are plenty of builds here using 700's. I reviewed every one of them before I ever began my tear down.

Here is my build thread if you want to check it out.
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/304599-green-71-frame-off-mild-build.html


FJnew said:
Any one got any ideas on how to get my hands on a Downey adapter kit?

Srgould41- what adapter did you use? And did you have a 4 or 3 speed t/case?

Any other helpful hints on the conversion ?
Click to expand...
 
srgould41- i might be PM'ing you when i finally get all my stuff in order to tear into this thing.

im not doing a frame off resto. but i feel like it might be easier to take the tub off? or at least lift the back end up a couple of feet. idk?

i see your cross member. is that the way it has to be mounted, behind the t/case, before the yoke? or is that just your way? it seems like that would make the whole setup even longer. could you use the stock one out of the vehicle the tranny came out of and make it work with the FJ?

well im gona use the 3 speed t/case cause thats what i have. i found a couple Downey adapters one ebay so ill proably go with that.

oh yea and whats with the twin sticks on the t/case? whats that for?

thanks again
 
You can call me Steve :)

PM away. Glad to help out if I can.

You will need a tranny/tcase mount no matter what. Some people use the AA mount that attaches to the AA adapter in front of the tcase. I don't think the Downey adapter has one. You can still use the tranny mount location. In this case you will need to fab one up that will clear the tcase front output shaft. That is why lots of people use the propellor mount of the back of the tcase. It's way easier.

You don't have to remove the tub. As a matter of fact I put my tub on several times to check the fit of the engine and tranny. If you pull your tub you will get into the broken bolt and torn isolator issue. If you want to pull your tub then think about new mounts. Not very expensive.

I originally was going to use my stock 3speed case because it was what I had. I came across a good deal on Pirate for a 700R4, AA mount, and 4speed case all ready mated up for about $100 more than the cost of the AA adapter. So I went with it.

If you want to go the Downey route then DO contact Jim Sickles who used to run Downey. He is an awesome guy and loves to pass on his knowledge. He can advise you on mounts and such. Plus if you don't buy a Downey adapter with the tranny output shaft you might be stuck. I'm not sure if Jim has any more of them. You can get away with cutting the 2 or 4wd shafts as far as I know. Don't forget to factor in the cost of having a tranny shop install the output shaft. Figure $200 or more in labor since they have to take the whole tranny apart. That was one reason I went with the AA adapter.

You don't need twin sticks. The stock floor mounted shifter will work. Depends on what year you have. Since mine came with the dash mounted vacuum shifter I had to replace it with one for the 4speed case. I opted to make my own.

My frame cross member was just my own idea. I could have modded the stock member to fit further back, but I decided to use the square tube. It was easier. I put it back because I wanted to keep the frame as rigid as I could.



FJnew said:
srgould41- i might be PM'ing you when i finally get all my stuff in order to tear into this thing.

im not doing a frame off resto. but i feel like it might be easier to take the tub off? or at least lift the back end up a couple of feet. idk?

i see your cross member. is that the way it has to be mounted, behind the t/case, before the yoke? or is that just your way? it seems like that would make the whole setup even longer. could you use the stock one out of the vehicle the tranny came out of and make it work with the FJ?

well im gona use the 3 speed t/case cause thats what i have. i found a couple Downey adapters one ebay so ill proably go with that.

oh yea and whats with the twin sticks on the t/case? whats that for?

thanks again
Click to expand...
 
Before you go very far with this I humbly suggest you do some research on the 700R4 evolution and see where the one you are considering fits in that spectrum.

When GM introduced the 700R4 it got a horrible reputation as it was under-engineered. To their considerable credit they stuck with it and made a number of changes which significantly improved it. IIRC they did some major improvements for the 1988 model year. They continued to refine it after that and the 700R4 became the 4L60.

I would not buy an early 700R4 regardless of price. I would definitely consider a 1988 and up.
 
So if I went with the AA adapter the you dint have to change the tranny out put shaft?

I'm leaning towards a remaned. Tranny now. Just to save the hassle down the road. And there not that much more. I'm Gona stick with the 3 speed t/case. Not sure on the adapter yet.

Steve Igbo flip my rear springs, which will move my rear axel back about 4". How much will the rear drive shaft need to be cut? And what about the front? Will I have to worry about the angle at all?
It's got a shackle reversal I'n the front and shackles I'n the tear. It's a 10/72 fj40.
 
If you have the extra bucks have the tranny "built up" there are lots of goodies like larger clutch packs and heavy duty bands that improve performance. A good transmission builder can make it do exactly what you want it to do so you are not making comprimises with off-road performance.
One thing you need to make sure of is the adjustment of the throttle valve cable (TV). This controls line pressures, shift points, part-throttle downshifts and detent downshifts. Since it sounds like you are putting this up with a motor/carb not previously attached to a 700R4, you to make sure this works properly - otherwise the end result may be premature failure. So, among other things, the location you mount the TV cable on the throttle lever needs to be very close to the stock location on a 700R4-equipped motor, so the valve operates correctly relative to throttle position.
 
Setting up TV cables is very important. I took my rig to a trans guy who checked the adjustment and said I was good. 200 miles later my cluthes finally gave out. You have to be very careful, but that is for later.

I installed flipped rear 60 springs in the back of mine to gain a little more clearance. I also rebuilt a set of driveshafts that I picked up. They are not stock. In my rear I used a front CV shaft (double cardan) from an '85 4runner. It is about 17" long. The front shaft was a total custom build and is about 43" long.

Worry about your shafts later, but make sure you have enough room for the rear. Keep your engine as far forward as possible.

Ask Jim Sickles if he still has his V8 installation guides. He sent me one. It was helpful figuring out placement.
 
Well I think my motor is as far forward as I can get it already.

How do I get ahold of Jim?

Steve what did you build your front driveshaft out of? Existing shafts?
 
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