70 Series - best brake upgrades (1 Viewer)

[ATL Cruiser]

I am in the process of replacing and calibrating my LSPV in the rear. In doing this, I am considering upgrading the entire brake system from booster to pads.

After much searching and reading, I have not found much conclusive about the "biggest and best" direct fit brake components for a 70 series. So far I have the following:

Master cylinder - leave as is?
Brake booster - 80 series direct fit upside down with modifications to rod
Calipers / rotors / pads (front) - ??
Calipers rear / rotors / pads (rear) - ??

Any advice would be appreciated. I am looking for the absolute biggest and best, cost irrelevant.

Thank you.

 

[Gun Runner 5]

I am in the process of replacing and calibrating my LSPV in the rear. In doing this, I am considering upgrading the entire brake system from booster to pads.

After much searching and reading, I have not found much conclusive about the "biggest and best" direct fit brake components for a 70 series. So far I have the following:

Master cylinder - leave as is?
Brake booster - 80 series direct fit upside down with modifications to rod
Calipers / rotors / pads (front) - ??
Calipers rear / rotors / pads (rear) - ??

Any advice would be appreciated. I am looking for the absolute biggest and best, cost irrelevant.

Thank you.

So you in addition to mind-blowing acceleration you want to be able to stop? 😁

 

[sodafeld1]

cost irrelevant! what a beautiful phrase 😁

 

[sodafeld1]

mind you, I don't mind the stock braking system, nice and simple, I drive like miss daisy so brakes last yonks. But I think you covered what you want up top post.

 

[sleepydad69]

I am in the process of replacing and calibrating my LSPV in the rear. In doing this, I am considering upgrading the entire brake system from booster to pads.

After much searching and reading, I have not found much conclusive about the "biggest and best" direct fit brake components for a 70 series. So far I have the following:

Master cylinder - leave as is?
Brake booster - 80 series direct fit upside down with modifications to rod
Calipers / rotors / pads (front) - ??
Calipers rear / rotors / pads (rear) - ??

Any advice would be appreciated. I am looking for the absolute biggest and best, cost irrelevant.

Thank you.

I'm curious? do you feel like the stock brake setup is bad?

so far I'm pretty happy with it. not sure I would want to change it other than normal fluid flush and maintaince.

I get it if your towing stuff a lot? I'm not towing with my rig so maybe that has something to do with it.

 

[LDowney]

I am in the process of replacing and calibrating my LSPV in the rear...

I did the same, following the factory manual on setup ... aftermarket manuals ... integrating instructions from factory & aftermarket manuals. After years of fine tuning the LSPV on my BJ70, removing it yielded significantly improved braking in all conditions.

Your 70 is newer with a longer wheelbase, so it will have numerous differences in components and probably plumbing configuration. This will probably yield different results. Good luck on the journey. One thought before you start swapping out components in your brakes, remove the LSVP to test the brakes without it. Cap brake lines while the LSVP is out rather than alter them so you can add the LSVP back if its removal does not yield the performance that you are seeking.

 

[steve729]

all kinds of weird brake issues with my 79 that no-one could fix. Took out the LSPV, and troubles were over. Simpler is almost ALWAYS better.

 

[ATL Cruiser]

Good insight, all. I'm probably putting the cart before the horse a bit here. I'll get the LSPV replaced / calibrated / removed, and check back in if braking is still weak.

I highly doubt the LSPV was adjusted with the original lift kit. I certainly did not adjust it when I replaced all 4 leaf springs. As a result, my gut feel is that the rear brakes are currently doing nothing.

For anyone interested in LSPV's, @Felde did a fantastic write-up on them a few weeks back.

WDYD - What did you do on your 70 series today?

Those look great! They are so much comfier than the factory seats too, granted the drivers side one had seen better days

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[Loober]

An 80 series booster and MC, with a manual LSPV will make a huge difference over stock.

 

[Ozzy75]

I've just started to replace my HJ75 front rotors and pads and turns out i've potentially got HZJ75 calipers... I went to install new HJ pads and they where a lot smaller got the part number off the old pads and ordered new ones which said HZJ75 which is a larger caliper and two larger pistons unlike the HJ75 ones which are one larger one smaller piston..

Not 100% sure their fairly straight bolt in but looks like the only mods to mine was the brake shroud was cut to accommodate the larger caliper?

 

[Felde]

remove the LSVP to test the brakes without it. Cap brake lines while the LSVP is out rather than alter them so you can add the LSVP back if its removal does not yield the performance that you are seeking.

I think, this is not a good idea. The LSPV is there for a purpose. Depending on how exactly you would remove it, the truck would either have poor brakes in the rear, causing prolonged breaking distance and understeering, or, the back would lock up and become unstable. Off you fly..
Some people regard the latter to be 'better breaking'. No. Its unsafe breaking.
Best regards Ralf

 

[Felde]

I highly doubt the LSPV was adjusted with the original lift kit. I certainly did not adjust it when I replaced all 4 leaf springs. As a result, my gut feel is that the rear brakes are currently doing nothing.

The LSPV is actually a very sensitive device. 3mm on the actuation leaver has an effect. When springs are swapped, readjustment is necessary in any case.
Actually, I rate 90% of complains on poor brakes on a 70 series rather an issue of poor adjustment.
See my extended thread on LSPV and how to adjust it here:

WDYD - What did you do on your 70 series today?

Those look great! They are so much comfier than the factory seats too, granted the drivers side one had seen better days

forum.ih8mud.com

Be safe! Best regards Ralf

 

[coldtaco]

I've just started to replace my HJ75 front rotors and pads and turns out i've potentially got HZJ75 calipers... I went to install new HJ pads and they where a lot smaller got the part number off the old pads and ordered new ones which said HZJ75 which is a larger caliper and two larger pistons unlike the HJ75 ones which are one larger one smaller piston..

Not 100% sure their fairly straight bolt in but looks like the only mods to mine was the brake shroud was cut to accommodate the larger caliper?

I installed T100 V6 front calipers on my 85 HJ75. Had to trim the brake shroud

 

[RHINO]

cost irrelevent?

thats easy, get 20"rims and run some wilwood carbon rotors with 6 pot calipers. you'll stop so fast you'll forget about the 30k you you spent doing it

 

[jblueridge]

I have 4Runner calipers, early 80 series booster and MC.
Marked improvement along with readily available pads.

 

[svsisu]

Did you need to trim the brake shroud for the 4Runner calipers? Is there much difference between 4Runner Calipers and T100 calipers? Both seem to be popular upgrades along with the early 80 series booster and MC.

 

[cruisermatt]

Bigger calipers grabbing the same rotor diameter isn't an upgrade. any noticeable difference from this is simply from fresh parts and fluid.

If you really want a upgrade in stopping power, you could do the 00-06 Tundra brakes (~12.5" rotor) or 2010-up 4runner brakes (~13.5" rotor, honestly overkill for <37" tires on a vehicle lighter then a 60 or 80 series IMO). There are plenty of threads on this in the 60 series section, your HZJ77 has the same knuckle/spindle/hub geometry as a 60 series so the installation would be similar.
bigger master cylinder to accommodate would be the T100 1-1/16", Bigger booster also recommended.

 

[RHINO]

Bigger calipers grabbing the same rotor diameter isn't an upgrade. any noticeable difference from this is simply from fresh parts and fluid.

Not sure i buy that, what I have always understood bigger calipers grab harder so long as you supply more fluid, i:e bigger master.

Now, with that bigger caliper on the same size rotor you can increase heat, brake fade and rotor warping, so I agree its not good practice and a compromised design, but I don't think your statement on its own is accurate.

 

[Ash Awbery]

I have been looking at upgrading my brakes on my LJ78, and found the tundra thread which includes part numbers.

I haven’t checked yet if they would fit.

Brake Upgrade - The Tundra Mod

Hello All, Here are some specifics for performing the Front Range Off Road (FROR) Tundra brake mod on the front axle of a 60 Series Land Cruiser. This combination of master/caliper seems perfectly balanced with pedal travel, feel, and response. Braking performance is a huge improvement over...

forum.ih8mud.com

 

[jblueridge]

Larger caliper = larger pad = more friction = more heat = better stopping power until the rotor is fully heat soaked, etc, etc, etc.

Did you need to trim the brake shroud for the 4Runner calipers

For me, the availability of 4Runner parts plus the ease of installation made a winning combo.
Yes I had to trim the backing plate with an angle grinder’s cutoff wheel.
Nothing exact or precise about the cuts.