'70 FJ40 Front Heater Blower Question (1 Viewer)

[alanbl]

Hi all,

The front heater blower fan works will not "kick start" into action. What I mean is that it will turn if I pull it out of the enclosure and give it a little nudge. But it won't get turning when I first pull the switch. This has been happening for awhile and I used to be able to just give it a few bangs with a rubber mallet which would get it going but that doesn't work anymore. BTW, it will only work on one speed which probably tells me that the resistor is shot. Electrics are not my strong point so I'm not sure where to to go from here. Any suggestions/advice will be appreciated!

Thanks!

 

[ibinazbass]

Check the voltage going into the motor, if it is too low the motor may not start but could potentially "run" once you give it a nudge.

 

[alanbl]

Check the voltage going into the motor, if it is too low the motor may not start but could potentially "run" once you give it a nudge.

Thanks! Great suggestion. I did check and it is only about 9v. I ran jumpers directly to the battery and it the motor turned immediately. What could be causing the voltage drop and do you know how I can diagnose it? I cleaned up the connector a bit but do you think that could be the issue?

 

[73FJ40]

Somewhere along the circuit from the battery to the blower motor there must be corrosion.

It appears that the power to the blowers starts from the ignition switch, goes to the fuse panel, then onto the blower switches and then to the blower motors.

With the switch 'on' I would check the voltage in and out of the fuse and in and out of the switch.

 

[ibinazbass]

The voltage drop comes from resistance somewhere. That can be corrosion, bad wires, bad contacts in a switch, or bad grounds even. First off, check the ground of the blower motor. IFIR it grounds through the case. Check resistance from the frame or battery (-) to the blower case. Should be less than 0.5 ohm. Next start from the switch side of the fuse block and go down the line until you find your drop. I'd suspect the fuse connection or the internal or external switch terminals.

 

[Living in the Past]

If you have a rear heater would switch the plugs on two blower switches to start. Pull the ashtray as a excess point.

 

[alanbl]

All good suggestions. I have 13v at the plug that comes out from the firewall to the blower motor. I have not tested the voltage as it comes off the resistor but I have had a thought that might be too simplistic. Once again, electrics are definitely not my strength. Would I cause any damage to the blower if I bypassed the resistor and went direct from the connector to the blower motor? Right now, I have no need for two speeds. Just need the defroster to work when I'm plowing. Then next spring, I can worry about putting things back together the way the FJ40 Gods intended!

Thanks!

 

[alanbl]

If you have a rear heater would switch the plugs on two blower switches to start. Pull the ashtray as a excess point.

I like this! Especially since the rear heater does not work.

 

[ToyotaMatt]

I would first swap your switches like mentioned above

assuming you have 2 separate switches ? for a optional Rear heater




then , see if you bench test the blower motor , In Place of course with test leads directly from Battery , the lookie see for what happens here


i Run into ALOT of the First Generation Fan Blower Heater switches that are simply TOAST inside , some can be Refurbished

and restored while others cannot its hit or Miss ......


i have plenty of Pull switch Parts cores and also REfurbished And Restored Complete Pull Switch Assy's if you wind up needing

and part of some kind , feel free to shoot me a PM



Matt ...


good luck

 

[mattcamp]

Huh, I also only have one speed, low, I am going to try switching them too, great idea. I thought it was the resistor, now I can find out for sure. Thanks!

 

[alanbl]

I would first swap your switches like mentioned above

assuming you have 2 separate switches ? ......

Thanks, Matt. I do have 2 switches and swapping them seems like a great plan. I'll let you know if I need parts. Really appreciate the input from everyone!

 

[ToyotaMatt]

Thanks, Matt. I do have 2 switches and swapping them seems like a great plan. I'll let you know if I need parts. Really appreciate the input from everyone!

that's what everybody is here for , to help each other out ......

 

[ibinazbass]

All good suggestions. I have 13v at the plug that comes out from the firewall to the blower motor. I have not tested the voltage as it comes off the resistor but I have had a thought that might be too simplistic. Once again, electrics are definitely not my strength. Would I cause any damage to the blower if I bypassed the resistor and went direct from the connector to the blower motor? Right now, I have no need for two speeds. Just need the defroster to work when I'm plowing. Then next spring, I can worry about putting things back together the way the FJ40 Gods intended!

Thanks!

Bypassing the resistor will not damage it, as that is what high speed is. Low goes through the resistor, high bypasses it. Out of curiosity, which speed (switch position) did it work on before? One click out is high, 2 is low.

 

[alanbl]

Bypassing the resistor will not damage it, as that is what high speed is. Low goes through the resistor, high bypasses it. Out of curiosity, which speed (switch position) did it work on before? One click out is high, 2 is low.

It worked on the high speed position, one click out. When I jumped it direct from the blower to the battery bypassing the switch and everything, it turned right over with no delay. There are 13v coming out of the connector that runs back under the firewall to the switch so I'm suspecting the culprit might be between that connector and the blower. I'm tempted to just bypass everything and install a new toggle switch with wiring direct to the battery!