69 FST Spring Green partial restore (1 Viewer)

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Ok, so it begins....lol! If any of you have experience using an EZ Wiring harness or any other GM type harness that ties into existing Toyota switches please feel free to respond. I've done harnesses on my other builds, but they had a GM steering column which made things fairly straight forward. This on the other hand is not. I'm using the EZ harness with a Dakota Digital cluster and the small Vintage Air heater.

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I have the same wiring harness, and am going with Dakota gauges...but they're still in the box, so I won't be any help! However, I'll come back here for tips :D
 
I have the same wiring harness, and am going with Dakota gauges...but they're still in the box, so I won't be any help! However, I'll come back here for tips :D
LMAO! I'll try and keep good notes for you and anyone else who will need it.
 
Well, I've already ran into an issue and that's the alternator. I'm going to switch out the stock one and put it a GM one wire that's more juice and makes the wiring less of a headache.
 
So, I had to fabricate a bracket for the 12 si alternator. I tried to mimic the stock one as much as I could in order for things to line up correctly. Here are some pics.

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I ended up having the stock alternator converted to a one wire "internally" regulated type so I spent a better part of a day fabbing up a bracket I won't use. I'm making slow progress on the wiring, but it's getting there.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the black tab on the starter is for? I believe the red wire is for ignition. Any help would be great.

Mark, is does the wire coming of the carb you build for me go to the positive side of the coil? I know you told me when I picked it up, but I don't remember exactly.

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Some major progress has been made in the past couple of weeks. We now have functioning lights, blinkers, hazards, brakes, and license plate light! I still need to wire up the wipers, cig lighter, horn, and reverse switch. Using an aftermarket wiring harness is not an impossible route, but things are not as straight forward if you're not using a GM column. I basically made my own connections supplied by Coolerman and some help with his schematics. I made my own wiring diagram and I'm posting it here. It's not the easiest to follow and I plan to make a better version of it later on. Here's a pic of it for those interested in it.

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I ended up having the stock alternator converted to a one wire "internally" regulated type so I spent a better part of a day fabbing up a bracket I won't use. I'm making slow progress on the wiring, but it's getting there.
I was wondering if anyone could tell me what the black tab on the starter is for? I believe the red wire is for ignition. Any help would be great.

Mark, is does the wire coming of the carb you build for me go to the positive side of the coil? I know you told me when I picked it up, but I don't remember exactly.

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Craig

I think you asked me this in person at the Bakersfield Rally last Saturday. Anyways, the answer is yes.

FWIW, you should use my username to tag me. I don’t check in here much anymore, but I do put a little effort into trying to help all my regulars.😉
 
Red wire on starter could be an activation wire for a previous charging system

I've used the "crank" wire to activate alternators before and it definitely works...
 
She's back on the road! The wiring is done for the most part. I still have to put some split loom on it and clean up some areas. The vintage air heater is in, but I need to get over to Home Depot and get a pair of hose adapters for the ducting. I put a steering wheel wrap on the wheel, but cannot get the horn to work. I'm wondering if the guts of it are to rusted since it won't spring back and forth. Mark's rebuilt carb is purring and it's running great. There are still a bunch of little things I want to button up here and there. Every time I look at it I see things that need to be addressed....kinda like an old house. Anyways, here are some pics.

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A little update. Now that I've been able to drive it around I've found a few bugs that I have/had to correct. Last week, I got stranded at the the Costco parking lot because it wouldn't start. That turned out to be points in the distributor had pretty much fused together. It was hooked up to a coil that said to use an external ballast resistor to it, which it did not have. Well, I had no idea that was needed as I was running it how I got it. Fast forward a few days and a new Petronix ignition and coil and she fires right up.
It has a pretty good oil leak and I'm not sure where it's coming from. I posted a want ad for a threaded pcv valve since that's what is on there. I'm not sure if this is a cause, but it is leaking from the dipstick tube. It could probably use a new tube, which is NLA.
I'm pretty sure it's also leaking from the rear main seal as well as other places. It's almost as if I need to pull the engine and just go thru it all to eliminate future problems. That prospect really doesn't appeal to me at the moment since that is some major work involved not to mention $$$. However, it is fun to drive and I get a lot of thumbs up so I'll take any positives I can get...lol!
 
Craig, if you can spray carb cleaner in the PCV (while removed from the truck) and hear the ball rattle, move on to the next thing. I haven’t gone back through your thread, but I assume you have the PCV hooked up to the insulator under the carb.
If you’ve still got enough blow-by to have oil coming out your dipstick, you’ve got bigger problems.☹️
 
Craig, if you can spray carb cleaner in the PCV (while removed from the truck) and hear the ball rattle, move on to the next thing. I haven’t gone back through your thread, but I assume you have the PCV hooked up to the insulator under the carb.
If you’ve still got enough blow-by to have oil coming out your dipstick, you’ve got bigger problems.☹️
Mark, yes I do have the PCV hooked up to the insulator. I'll take it off and clean it up and post what I find. Bigger problems? I'm afraid to ask!
 
Ok, I took it off and sprayed carb cleaner in it. Before I sprayed it in there I didn't hear anything rattling. Once I cleaned it I could here something in there, but I'm not sure what sound I'm looking for?
 
Shake it vigourously, you should hear a ”rattle”. When the valve is stuck, due to sludge build up, it won’t move. The carb cleaner removes the sludge and allows the valve to move freely. I had the same issue. Used the spray and a good soak in kerosene to loosen the valve (ball).

Ok, I took it off and sprayed carb cleaner in it. Before I sprayed it in there I didn't hear anything rattling. Once I cleaned it I could here something in there, but I'm not sure what sound I'm looking for?
 
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I posted this same issue in the 40 help page, but I thought someone following this might be able to help.

I'm trying to get this horn to work, but I think I'm missing a part. The spacer between the seat and the spring.
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It's the part labeled 45155. Does anyone have one of these? I tested the ring contact at the top to the where the wire comes out in the bottom and it has continuity. When I assembled what I have back together the horn button is tight and has no spring to it. Is that what that spacer is supposed to do. Also, the horns are don't work. Not sure if it's the button or the horns themselves.

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