67 FJ40 fuel gauge/temp problem

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Joined
Mar 30, 2007
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Location
Redding, CA
I just acquired an fj40 from my brother. The fuel gauge and the temp gauge are not working. The thing that makes me wonder is that the fuel gauge will work every GREAT while. The temp guage has not worked in quite some time. I took the cluster apart and cleaned all of the contacts with no luck. The heater fuse seems to be ok. I also noticed that the gauge cluster lights don't work even though all of the bulbs seem to be ok. Can anybody tell me where to start. Thanks
 
Welcome.


Is the lead from the gauge to the sender in the head connected?
 
As best as I can tell all of the wires are connected. I wondering if there is a shared ground. I'm going to check all of the grounds tommorow. I might also replace the temp sending unit to see if that helps my temp gauge problem.
 
As best as I can tell all of the wires are connected. I wondering if there is a shared ground. .

THe fuel, temp and oil guages share a common 'hot' lead. The sending units provide the respective grounds. Fuel should be on E, not 1/4" below it; temp should be on H, not off the face of the guage.

If the needles are within normal range [just not registering] your best bet would be to run a jump wire from the ground side of the guage [opposite the daisy-chained power lead] to the sender in question and see what happens.

Best

Mark A.
 
One thing I noticed in my 67 was that the leaky vent gasket would allow water (and salt water when driving in the winter) to leak directly on my fuse box. All of my contacts were junk, and had sporatic lights, heater, gauges, etc.

You can buy a whole fuse block new from toyota (or probably from the guy who posted above) for not much coin- around $35 last time I bought one. That might be a good place to start.
 
THe fuel, temp and oil guages share a common 'hot' lead. The sending units provide the respective grounds. Fuel should be on E, not 1/4" below it; temp should be on H, not off the face of the guage.

If the needles are within normal range [just not registering] your best bet would be to run a jump wire from the ground side of the guage [opposite the daisy-chained power lead] to the sender in question and see what happens.

Best

Mark A.

So my gauge is doing the same, only reading a little under a half when full. then goes to empty pretty quickly. So I need to run a test wire from the ground to the gauge/sender itself to see if it will peg that gauge? Which means:

A. The gauge is good

B. The wiring is bad/ground

that sound correct?
 

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