66 Lincoln Continental build thread (1 Viewer)

[BILT4ME]

Set the battery tray back into the fender to move it back 3.5". Now the battery clears the AC compressor.

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I'm not familiar with the engine mounts on that engine, but do you have enough room for the engine to "rock" back and forth in there during heavy foot application and still clear the battery tray? I can't tell how many washing machines of a gap there is between the bracket and the battery hardware.

 

[Gumby]

There's a couple of inches. Well within not-broken mounts.

 

[Gumby]

Spent most of my last day of winter break in the drivers inner fenderwell. Once I got the termination points of the bulk of the chassis wiring in place I could start wiring to them. Almost everything has been wired to the firewall from everywhere else. Now I can finish wiring behind the dash and the dash itself. The relay box I ordered from bluesea is waterproof so I put it inside the fender behind the bolt in fender well. Ford put the factory metal box relays here, not waterproof and they lasted, more or less , until it got stored and the contacts all got munged up.

There's still one relay open. I suspect I'll find a use for it.

Currently, the relays are horn, fuel pump, ignition 1, ignition 2, and lights. Blower motor relay is on the restomod air box. Window relays are in the doors.

Can you spot and ID all the modules? They definitely take up less space than the old analog and vacuum modules that were there.

Then before and after inner fender.

 

[Gumby]

LS swap the world.

Pulled the motor and trans to clean and accessorize for final drop

Cheap intake. Truck manifold flows better, but doesn't fit and is ugly as a pig. I moved the MAP underneath. I ordered a Lincoln star hood badge that should look nice where it is now.

Alternator bracket will not allow the power steering reservoir cap to go on unless I cut the dipstick off and notch the bracket. I guess I can look in and see what the level is. Fits fine now.

New dipstick location is tight with the alternator, ECT, and #1 plug wire. a simple bracket should make sure it doesn't get into the plug wire or positive output of the alternator.

Drilled and tapped the old dipstick hole for a plug.

New starter on.

High heat painted skinny manifolds on.

Block cleaned and painted a light gray

Heads and valley pan wire wheeled clean

New coil brackets are going on the fire wall, I think. I made a set of wires off of the coils mounted on the shelf. Looks nice and clean. i haven't terminated both ends yet. I'll wait until I get everything back in place.

Just gonna paint the stock valve covers for now. Maybe a wrinkle black finish to match the wrinkle black air intake tube.

S

 

[Gumby]

118" belt is too long. Dofus at Advanced had no clue how to look up belts by length so a new one will have to wait.

Valve covers look good in wrinkle black. Stainless button head bolt were supposed to be here today, but Amazon.

65 hood crest looks good where the MAP was. New MAP location is underneath.

PS pulley is pressed all the way down. Ih8 press on pulleys.

 

[gnob]

looking good. it gets pretty old doing the parts monkeys job every time.

 

[LukeZero]

That's a funny looking Land Cruiser.

 

[Gumby]

I have embraced the personal luxury sedan.

I've decided I like to own vehicles I can use regularly. I found myself driving the 45 maybe a dozen times a year. At Michigan insurance prices I was paying about $100 per use. 55 didn't have the insurance bill, but I had to tow it all over the country to use it. 4 hour drive just to go to the Badlands and do the whole thing in two hours in 2wd.

I'd be open to a 100 series if something happened to the Tundra, but being I only ever use that as a truck anymore, having an open bed on my tow rig is nice.

 

[Gumby]

I went with black wrinkle finish on the transmission as well. A lot of it shows behind the motor and before the firewall. I wanted it to look clean, but not be a focal point. Plain cast aluminum would have been nice, but I wasn't getting to that point without completely disassembling the trans and hot tanking and probably media blasting the case. I thought about the light grey of the engine block, but it would be very obvious in the black engine compartment. I think the black will be more subtle.

 

[120mm]

I have embraced the personal luxury sedan.

I've decided I like to own vehicles I can use regularly. I found myself driving the 45 maybe a dozen times a year. At Michigan insurance prices I was paying about $100 per use. 55 didn't have the insurance bill, but I had to tow it all over the country to use it. 4 hour drive just to go to the Badlands and do the whole thing in two hours in 2wd.

I'd be open to a 100 series if something happened to the Tundra, but being I only ever use that as a truck anymore, having an open bed on my tow rig is nice.

As much as they are maligned, the 1960s sedans are excellent vehicles, that knew exactly how to go down the road in comfort.

If my garage were not already full, I'd have a 1960s Ford sedan in it.

 

[Gumby]

Lotta stuff done, but no good pics for a while. Still got a lot of stuff to do in the engine bay, but it's getting there. A few good days and a handful of parts and I can put the hood on and call the engine done.

Got another impediment to progress Friday. Nothing at all got done Saturday.

 

[Gumby]

Re-did some harness to run the injector wires off of the back of the engine. No wires come up the front now. Might still make a heat shield where the fat part of the loom runs close to the exhaust, but it'd just be an excuse to make something with speed holes in it.

I'm debating heat shrink only on the injector harness or loom. I did find an injector plug that had the wire pierced right at the injector with a test light so #7 is getting a new plug.

Coils are off the back of the head. I'm not 100% sold on it.

Still need to cut the hole for the air intake on the panel I made to fill in where the HVAC was. The center part panel is held down with pan head screws into rivnuts to service the air cleaner element in the sealed up fenderwell fed by the cowl vents. The MAF will bolt on the panel. I have enough 4" pipe, but not enough without a bend, so I need to fab up a chunk this week.

 

[Gumby]

Passenger side has the heater hoses routed. I'm debating the routing of the AC lines to the compressor. The routing in the pic is by far the longest, so no worry of changing my mind and being short.

LS1 water pump is spaced 1.5" out to work with the truck pulley and accessories so there's a big hole where I ran the lines..

Radiator next so I can locate the condenser and trans cooler. Then all the AC lines need crimping.

Passenger side has the injector loom wrapped over the shrink tube.

 

[Gumby]

Gates website has great product catalogs to find all their hoses diameter, overall length and pictures of bends.

Product Catalogs

Browse our complete line of power transmission and fluid power products and services. View Gates Product Catalogs.

www.gates.com

I went with 20795 1.25x1.25 x 20.1 and 22363 1.5x1.5x 16

I wish I would have found this site for the belt.

 

[Gumby]

Cleaned and painted the hydroboost and re-installed, hopefully for the last time. Shortened the push rod to the pedal by 2".

Got the air box panel sorted after several tries. MAF is bolted through the panel. Cone filter will live in the fender well where the hvac was. Air intake tube lines up with the 90 degree bend out of the intake. I ordered a hump tube to help with engine movement. It also needs a 4 to 3.5 adapter because GM.

Sanded and re-painted the intake. The stock finish was super thin and badly scratched. New o-ring kit installed and the brackets re-drilled from LS 1 to L59 length. Drilled out the injector holes to 0.53 to fit the correct o-rings.

Re-routed the AC lines again after re-interpreting the pictographs and turning the compressor 90 degrees. Still deciding where the receiver drier will go.

Mounted the constant power fuse box. I used a mkIV Jetta part. It has a 100A fuse for the alternator, a 40A fuse for the fans, a 60A for the interior feed that will include the window motor relays, 30A for the fuel pump relay, and 3 spade fuses for other stuff.

Radiator is here, hoses ordered. Isolators ordered. Plans for mounting brackets forming. Will require speed holes.

Snow day today, but stuck puppy-sitting

 

[LukeZero]

Cleaned and painted the hydroboost and re-installed, hopefully for the last time. Shortened the push rod to the pedal by 2".

Got the air box panel sorted after several tries. MAF is bolted through the panel. Cone filter will live in the fender well where the hvac was. Air intake tube lines up with the 90 degree bend out of the intake. I ordered a hump tube to help with engine movement. It also needs a 4 to 3.5 adapter because GM.

Sanded and re-painted the intake. The stock finish was super thin and badly scratched. New o-ring kit installed and the brackets re-drilled from LS 1 to L59 length. Drilled out the injector holes to 0.53 to fit the correct o-rings.

Re-routed the AC lines again after re-interpreting the pictographs and turning the compressor 90 degrees. Still deciding where the receiver drier will go.

Mounted the constant power fuse box. I used a mkIV Jetta part. It has a 100A fuse for the alternator, a 40A fuse for the fans, a 60A for the interior feed that will include the window motor relays, 30A for the fuel pump relay, and 3 spade fuses for other stuff.

Radiator is here, hoses ordered. Isolators ordered. Plans for mounting brackets forming. Will require speed holes.

Snow day today, but stuck puppy-sitting

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The dogs look very un-impressed.

 

[gnob]

Gates website has great product catalogs to find all their hoses diameter, overall length and pictures of bends.

Product Catalogs

Browse our complete line of power transmission and fluid power products and services. View Gates Product Catalogs.

www.gates.com

I went with 20795 1.25x1.25 x 20.1 and 22363 1.5x1.5x 16

I wish I would have found this site for the belt.

This site has become so handy.

 

[Gumby]

Not getting to spend a lot of time in my shop. Puppies and whatnot.

Got an AC hose crimper. I had 14 crimps to make so less than $10 per fitting was worth buying a tool. All the hoses are now made so the tool will prolly never be used again.

Moved the coils to the firewall. I like it way better, but I had to pull the restomod air unit out to drill holes in the firewall. The plug wire routing is way cleaner this way and it just looks better. The wiring harness fits better without the coils on the heads too.

Got all the parts together for the intake and the air intake pipe. MAP and PCV go to fittings under the intake. The MAP is on a hose so it's not upside down. Waiting on a 90 degree PCV, but the hoses are run so I could finally bolt the intake down. Blacked out the rail brackets and cut them down. When I'm done pulling the injectors for any reason I'll zip tie the harness in tight to the brackets.

Air intake pipe needed a spacer between the elbow and the hump so I put the vent tube hose there. The vent on the valve cover spun 180 easily enough. Need more oil safe hose though.

Flipped the injectors around so I could make the wires run cleaner. Still not sold on covered or not on the injector harness.

 

[gnob]

some progress is better than none progress.

love this build.