64 FJ45 having problems getting the truck to move forward

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
FWIW, I wouldnt change that cable unless I absolutely had to.
Thanks I just unbolted it at the firewall yesterday so it doesn’t try to engage itself again
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Have you ever had the shift lever out? If the lever was placed back without the 1st/reverse side and the 2nd/3rd selector centered it may be possible that forward movement would be prevented. Have you tried to put it in neutral and then let out the clutch to see if it moves forward. You might have to slip the clutch more since it may be locked into 2nd or 3rd.
I believe the parking brake got engaged bc it was hanging out of the bracket that holds it onto the firewall. I think when I hit a bump it must of pulled it enough to engage it. The truck goes forward now. Going to see how it drives today
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Moving on from a parking brake issue, your next issue may be clutch travel (i.e.full engagement/full disengagement). Assuming you have a new "matching" clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, If you are using a "Stock" Chevy 11" clutch, your Toyota hydraulics don't provide enough travel to either fully engage the Chevy clutch, or fully disengage the Chevy clutch- - -so guys running the "stock" Chevy clutches are forced to either adjust their slave cylinder push rod so that (a) the throw out bearing is always riding on the fingers of the pressure plate so that they do get full disengagement, or (b) the throw out bearing is backed off of the pressure plate fingers, they never get "full"disengagement, so they drag the shift lever through the gears- - -and the amazing thing to is guys doing this claim they have no issues running the stock Chevy clutch ???.
Stock Chevy clutch requires .500" to travel at the throw out bearing to disengage
Stock Toyota hydraulics (which everybody uses) produces .450" of travel at the throw out bearing
LUK clutch that many use requires only .420" of travel at the throw out bear to disengage
Downey "Chevota Specific" clutches require only .375" of travel at the throw out bearing to disengage

Thank you that’s helps a lot. This is the setup I have in it now. I’m waiting for the rebuilt kit to come in for the original clutch master cylinder. Chevy / gm slave cylinder and later year aftermarket Toyota clutch master cylinder

7A714837-7E03-41F7-8E91-81ADFE7A9E9C.png


CAA77135-867F-4267-B7B7-6363CB0848C7.jpeg


86458106-327B-49A5-908E-556CD5C11BE1.jpeg


67D84CDB-147B-407F-ABBA-2F421C8EAB3E.jpeg
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Just drove the truck around for 20 minutes and the parking brake started trying to engage again and making the truck bind up when driving. Is it possible when the truck gets warm the parking brake pad are expanding. Was driving around fine and it just started happening out of nowhere again. I’m going to get the truck up on the lift tomorrow morning and changed the transmission, transfer case and axle fluids
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Moving on from a parking brake issue, your next issue may be clutch travel (i.e.full engagement/full disengagement). Assuming you have a new "matching" clutch master cylinder and slave cylinder, If you are using a "Stock" Chevy 11" clutch, your Toyota hydraulics don't provide enough travel to either fully engage the Chevy clutch, or fully disengage the Chevy clutch- - -so guys running the "stock" Chevy clutches are forced to either adjust their slave cylinder push rod so that (a) the throw out bearing is always riding on the fingers of the pressure plate so that they do get full disengagement, or (b) the throw out bearing is backed off of the pressure plate fingers, they never get "full"disengagement, so they drag the shift lever through the gears- - -and the amazing thing to is guys doing this claim they have no issues running the stock Chevy clutch ???.
Stock Chevy clutch requires .500" of travel at the throw out bearing to disengage
Stock Toyota hydraulics (which everybody uses) produces .450" of travel at the throw out bearing
LUK clutch that many use requires only .420" of travel at the throw out bear to disengage
Downey "Chevota Specific" clutches require only .375" of travel at the throw out bearing to disengage
Does the picture of the new one I got from summit look like the one that would work to replace the older one I took a picture of. Thanks for your help
 

Downey

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 5, 2007
Messages
5,570
Location
Brea, Calif.
Problem is Toyota made 3 different slave cylinders, the outsides all looked the same (similar to the Dorman shown above), but the piston sizes inside were different diameters, so you need to match the diameter of the master cylinder otherwise the pedal will be way too harsh (but will work), or too soft (and probably not work).
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Problem is Toyota made 3 different slave cylinders, the outsides all looked the same (similar to the Dorman shown above), but the piston sizes inside were different diameters, so you need to match the diameter of the master cylinder otherwise the pedal will be way too harsh (but will work), or too soft (and probably not work).

The truck has a Chevy bell housing on it so they used the Chevy / gm slave cylinder in the last photo and the Dorman one I think measured out to be the same and had the same angles like the one I removed. I will check in the morning. The guy I got it from drove it with the original 64 Toyota clutch master cylinder and the Chevy gm clutch slave cylinder for the last 10 years or so. I tried finding the exact slave cylinder that I took out of it but think they went out business a long time ago bc I couldn’t find another one. The pedal isn’t as firm as I would like to be so hoping when I put the original clutch master rebuilt back in that might solve the problem. I noticed when I took the old slave cylinder off the old slave had been threaded almost half way on the rod on the clutch fork. When I put the new slave cylinder in I had to have it all the way in to be able to get it into the fork and line up with the bolts. Not sure if the other one was adjusted so different because of wear over the years or if they are that far off. I’m almost sure the length and diameter were the same when I measured them but will check tomorrow.
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Problem is Toyota made 3 different slave cylinders, the outsides all looked the same (similar to the Dorman shown above), but the piston sizes inside were different diameters, so you need to match the diameter of the master cylinder otherwise the pedal will be way too harsh (but will work), or too soft (and probably not work).
Wish the guy used a Toyota bell housing so I could use a Toyota slave cylinder and keep things simple bc I don’t know to much about chevys. Is there a Chevy / gm slave cylinder that you know does work for the conversions in a FJ40 or FJ45? Thanks again for your help
 

Downey

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 5, 2007
Messages
5,570
Location
Brea, Calif.
Yep, Advance Adapter bracket #716288 mounts a Landcruiser slave cylinder to the side of a Chevy bellhousing. Matt, it is 1,000 percent normal to have to cut the stock slave cylinder push rod way down (shorter) for use with the Chevota conversion.
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Matt, yes advance makes an adaptor to use the toy slave. Pull the damn pb drum and remove the shoes to eliminate that as a problem!!’🤣
Thanks Brian I wouldn’t be surprised if I have one laying around here. I drove the truck over to my dads before and have it up on the lift. Going to remove the shoes tomorrow so I can try driving it that way as well and see if thats my only issue.
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Yep, Advance Adapter bracket #716288 mounts a Landcruiser slave cylinder to the side of a Chevy bellhousing. Matt, it is 1,000 percent normal to have to cut the stock slave cylinder push rod way down (shorter) for use with the Chevota conversion.
Thank you for the part number and info
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
Removed the parking brake this morning and seems to be what the problem was. Put new gear oil in the transmission and rear axle. Took the truck to pick up dinner and things to seem to be much better. Found out a gun holder works good to hold marinara sauce for your cheesesteak as well. Thanks for everyone’s help the past few days

14BD6CC6-3B7B-441F-85D0-EB471B58AE07.jpeg


DC8F6A8E-D668-4D5B-A40B-68BFE4F304DA.jpeg


C740E3B3-68D1-4137-879D-94B80B30BE0B.jpeg


5DA12D00-4D2E-4838-A5DE-4C227DC0B8BD.jpeg
 

Downey

SILVER Star
Joined
Jun 5, 2007
Messages
5,570
Location
Brea, Calif.
Wouldn't it be righteous if you could just clear coat the patina. I also had the short bed like yours, I disected 18" out of the bed, moving the tail gate 18" forward, resulted in a short/short bed, with rear tires exactly centered in the bed length, and no long rear over-hang, much better departure angle.
 

FJ40 MATT

SILVER Star
Joined
May 14, 2009
Messages
6,485
Location
Brick, NJ
What are the best replacement shocks for stock suspension?

8D5BE9E8-CC09-4B50-B481-662D2B24ECAF.jpeg


A1E71624-FD97-4DD5-9409-1280078EDE79.jpeg
 
Joined
Mar 20, 2020
Messages
204
Location
BALLSTON LAkE, NY
What are the best replacement shocks for stock suspension?

View attachment 3137955

View attachment 3137956
I’ve had great luck so far with Doetsch shocks @https://doetsch-shocks.com. Used them for my four inch lift then was able to reuse two and purchased two new shocks when I lowered to 2.5. There is a guide somewhere out there on shocks too for lengths and equivalents
 
Last edited:

Users who are viewing this thread

Top Bottom