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62 Transfer switch

Discussion in '60-Series Wagons' started by erfworm, Dec 27, 2003.

  1. erfworm

    erfworm

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    O.K., a couple of weeks ago my sister's 89 FJ62s transfer case got stuck in 4WD the indicator light is stuck on and consequently 4Hi is always engaged. So, I have an 88 and I thought I'd be smart and stick my control valves (located on firewall) in her truck to see if that was her problem. It wasn't, dejected I put mine back in and went for a test drive and now mine won't engage. There is no light going to the switch when the instrument lights are on, but when I push the button to engage 4WD I can feel the relay clicking. I'm gonna go mess with it some more with a test light etc., but am looking for advice on both problems. ??? :D
     
  2. Ming89FJ62

    Ming89FJ62 I smell bacon GOLD Star SILVER Star

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    I'm guessing that you cooked youi solenoids by trying to help you sis. Manually swap the vacuum lines on the solenoids to the TC and see if the TC engages/disengages - bet they do. Check your, and your sis's, solenoids w/ both an ohm meter and try some jumpers from the battery. Brown is 2WD, Blue 4WD. Checkj fuses, connections on the solenoids - maybe you'll be lucky.

    Ming
     
  3. erfworm

    erfworm

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    I just got back inside and saw your post. Thanks for replying Ming. I swapped vaccum lines and the transfer case engaged on my 88. Havent tried my sis' 89. But I'm still slightly confused on how the switch is wired. I can't find a decent wiring diagram any where. It is my impression that the green 4WD light is run off the t-case sensor?? So when I switch lines the light goes on. There still is no power to the actually dash switch. Checked fuses and O.K., which fuse supports the switch anyways? Its to cold and icy for this! :D
     
  4. Vortec62

    Vortec62

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    I have a different question about the FJ62 4wd switch. If you pull the hi-low lever to low is the front output supposed to automatically engage? I am able to get mine in to 2-low. The t-case has a switch on the hi-low shifter fork and another one on the front shaft mechanisim. I am pretty sure they are correct because the one the front shaft turns on the 4wd indicator on the dash.
     
  5. erfworm

    erfworm

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    If the solenoids are toast, is there a cheaper option? I vaguely rember someone saying sommething about a Camry's A/C solenoid, but can't find any posts on it?
     
  6. erfworm

    erfworm

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    Likeise on the 2-lo, as far as I can remember it has always done that,, but is it supposed to engage 4WD when pulled into 4-lo??
     
  7. dd113

    dd113

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    [quote author=erfworm link=board=1;threadid=9290;start=msg80983#msg80983 date=1072580095]
    Likeise on the 2-lo, as far as I can remember it has always done that,, but is it supposed to engage 4WD when pulled into 4-lo??
    [/quote]'

    It can engage all it wants but you only get 4WD on a 62 if you get out and lock the hubs. You can get 2 whl low which is nice in a pinch. Best bet is to just switch hoses to get it out or into 4WD. Top to bottom, bottom to top. Kiel Thompson wrote an excellent write up on ths using cheap parts. Check out the info/tech board here or the 3FE group on yahoo. Also search CCOT board.

    You can also use a hand vac to get the ft drive engaged. I have done it many a time.
     
  8. Ming89FJ62

    Ming89FJ62 I smell bacon GOLD Star SILVER Star

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    The schematic your looking for is on page TF-44 in the FSM. If you don't have access to one post a fax number and I'll be glad to copy and fax one to you. In a nutshell, the dash switch directly powers the 4WD solenoid and a relay that activates the 2WD solenoid. The only time the green 4WD illuminates is when the sensor is actuated in the TC - by the vacuum diaphram. There is another schematic on page 1 of the electrical section of the FSM - but be careful, the "front drive relay" is shown as normally open (TF-44 shows the same relay normally closed - just damn confusing ???), if you follow the cuircuit the relay has to be NC (normally closed) in order to engage the 2WS solenoid. A OEM replacement is $300 or so - had to do one last fall, others have used 12VDC MAC solenoids and some misc fittings from NAPA for a much cheaper solution. Or, you could just continue to swap vacuum lines, a real PITA if it's snowing or your on the trail in 6" of mud.

    Ming
     
  9. erfworm

    erfworm

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    Going to the junkyard today to try to find some solenoids. A couple of posts on the 3fe board suggested mid to late 80s Corolla, Camry, and Vans for good sources. Let ya'll know what I find. Thanks for the fax offer Ming, but I found a decent diagram and have a better understanding of the system, thanks anyways.
    Nick :D
     
  10. erfworm

    erfworm

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    well, to my surprise the local junkyard had an 89 FJ62, so I snagged the solenoids from it and some from an 86 Camry. Anyway it still don't work. Vacuum going to solenoids is 15-17 and vacuum coming out is around 6. Can someone please tell me what the vacuum number should be or test the vacuum on their solenoids. This would be great thanks.
    Nick
     
  11. Vortec62

    Vortec62

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    You can also try shifting it with air pressure if you have an air compressor. Don't give it too much pressure though. When I tired it it only took a few psi. I wouldn't want you to blow up the diagphram. The air pressure works backward from the vacuum method...if you have vacuum on line A to put into 4wd then pressurize line B and vice versa.

    You may be able to test to see if the diagphram is bad by unhooking both shifter hoses and putting a vacuum on one of them. The other one may momentarily suck in a little bit of air when the diagphram shifts but if it keeps sucking air I'd say the diagphram is kaput.

    How the heck do you spell diagphram anyway ??? :slap:
     
  12. IDave

    IDave

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    [quote author=Vortec62 link=board=1;threadid=9290;start=msg83601#msg83601 date=1073074600]

    How the heck do you spell diagphram anyway ??? :slap:
    [/quote]

    Diaphragm. Since you ask. Hardly plays fair, huh? No wonder the incidence of dyslexia is so high in English speakers!
     
  13. Landpimp

    Landpimp

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    Yes, if you put the lever in low, the front axle(if hubs locked) will engage, no need to push button, botton only for high range.

    John

    [quote author=Vortec62 link=board=1;threadid=9290;start=msg80978#msg80978 date=1072579892]
    I have a different question about the FJ62 4wd switch. If you pull the hi-low lever to low is the front output supposed to automatically engage? I am able to get mine in to 2-low. The t-case has a switch on the hi-low shifter fork and another one on the front shaft mechanisim. I am pretty sure they are correct because the one the front shaft turns on the 4wd indicator on the dash.


    [/quote]
     
  14. Vortec62

    Vortec62

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    Cool two questions answered:

    1. &#039:Diaphragm' I new there was a g in there somewhere :doh:

    2. Low range lever is supposed to auto engage the front driveline if it isn't already engaged. That means mine is broken...although I kinda like it the way it is.

    OK Now we need to get erfworm's rig workin' right and after thinking about it you should have the same vacuum on either side of the solenoid. There should be no leaks in any of the transfer shift plumbing. There is a finite volume of space in all the hoses, solenoids, and diaphragm. When the solenoid opens and the engine pulls a vaccum through one of the shift hoses you should have the same vacuum measurement anywhere in that line that you do on the intake manifold. The system is very similar to the brake booster. I am starting to think that you have a leak somewhere...Is your engine running well? Maybe the EFI can compensate somewhat for a small vacuum leak.
     
  15. erfworm

    erfworm

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    thought I had a leak too, so I replaced the brake booster hose where the PO had installed cruise controll. Still same problem. :( Checked juice going to solenoids both read 13 volts when button engaged/disengaged. Solenoids do operate when button pushed. Routed two seperate vacuum lines for each solenoid this gave an increase in vacuum on the out side of solenoid (now same as from manifold) but still same problem. :( Transfer case will engage randomly with button in either postion and sometimes it engages halfway while driving down the street (not a good sound) Perhaps the relay,, but I can here and feel it click while engaging the transfer. Landpimp, my front axle never engaged when transfer lever was put into 4LO and yes the hubs were locked, could this be related. This is killing me, especially because we now have lots o snow on the ground. Did 62s ever come with a manual transfer shifter, can I get one. HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
     
  16. Vortec62

    Vortec62

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    Based on your last post it sounds like mechanically everything is working correctly. I think your correct to start troubleshooting the wiring at this point. Do you have a wiring diagram? I don't know if there is one in the FSM or not. I need to check mine. I'd start by checking the hi-low switch on the t-case itself. If some of these wires are having intermittent shorting issues or a bad ground it could be causeing the part of the circuit that is supposed to enage the front end automaticaly when in low range to do strange things.

    As for nasty noise when it engages while you are moving...I did this once an accident. Was going about 15 mph with front hubs out and pushed the button for some reason. :slap: Lots of nasty noise. It's snowing here too so I've just been driving around with the front hubs in. With hubs locked in the front and rear drivelines should be going the same speed (except going around corners, spinning rear tires, etc) and when the thing decides to engage itself it shouldn't make so much noise.
     
  17. Vortec62

    Vortec62

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    Here is a diagram of the FJ62 t/c shift control wiring.

    [​IMG]

    For 2wd the 2wd solenoid is directly powered by the dash switch.

    For 4wd the 4wd solenoid is directly powered by the dash switch. When the t/c mechanicaly shifts into 4wd a switch on the t/c closes and turns on the 4wd indicator light.

    If you leave the dash switch in 2wd and pull the t/c into low range and low range switch on the t/c turns on the 4wd solenoid and a relay that will cut power to the 2wd solenoid. (this part doesn't work on my truck for some reason)

    I hope this will help you diagnose your problem.
     
  18. Indiomonk

    Indiomonk

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    Carry around a portable vacumn cleaner mini one.
    My friend used this until he got his fixed!

    G'd luck
     
  19. cruiseroutfit

    cruiseroutfit Supporting Vendor Moderator

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    Heres the diagram I use...
    [​IMG]
     
  20. 60serius

    60serius

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    If the t/c switch has failed and kept the circut open to close off the 2wd soleniod would it be possibble that the soleniods are both open to the vaccum therefor unable to shift.
    this would explain the t/c shifting half way while driving maybe
    and not engaging 4wd when shifted into low by the shift lever

    My 86 fj 62 has all these problems and I have tried every thing else
    so Im gonna try that switch

    You guy's rock thanks :beer:

    Vortec62 the low range not engaging by the shifter is the first
    symtem of this problem early diagnosise could save you some heart ake :cheers: