Looking for any tips for removing the evaporator from behind the dash of my 62 series. Have a gas leak and 80% suspect it is the evaporator. Tks in advance for any advice.
62 series evaporator removal (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter Richard Luksozek
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Ok thought I'd give it a shot and ..... surprise its pretty straight forward.. So for the purpose of recoding my findings I'll update this with photos during the reassembly.
As you converting to 134a?
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Just a bit of history. The car is a GXL and was used as a farm run around, checking dams, fences etc when I saw it. Approached the owner and bought it then and there. A/C wasn't working. Got it home and started work on it. Cut the rust out of the roof, replaces all shackle rubbers, tie rod ends, ball joints, brake rotors etc etc. got it registered and is now my day driver. So now back to the A/C. Initially the clutch wasn't pulling in so got an elec diagram and saw there is an A/C amplifier controlling the clutch. I manually by-passed all the controls and proved the clutch was Ok so that left tracing back the culprit why the amplifier wasn't activating it. Inputs to the Amplifier, Gas Pres sw, evaporator ice temp thermistor, engine rev and two adjustments that trigger the clutch relay based on how the temp and rev are set. My guess was gas Pr SW. but checked all the inputs and amplifier biard while I was at it. As I thought, PR SW was open circuit and gas was low. Got it vacced and recharged with R134a (it all you can get here in Aus) and away it went. BUT only lasted three days and back to where I was. So that's the long story and where I am today. Evalorator out and ready to find the leak. Will keep you posted.
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- #5
Evaporator is now back in and here is what I found. The smaller of the two piles through the firewall is the liquid line that runs from the condenser, through the Filter/drier then through the firewall and on to the TX valve mounted on the evaporator. Just before the TX valve is a "Tee" piece where the A/C gas pressure switch is mounted. Why there? Only the gods at Toyota can answer that, probably because its the most difficult place to put a very important part of the system.. The pipes gong into the "Tee" junction are only a press fit and over time plus hot, cold, hot, cold etc the press fits became, not so press fit, any more and leaked liquid R134a so didn't hold the charge very long. The leak didn't show up when using soapy water but the thick oily build up and pipes that moved in the fitting were ominous signs that that's were the leak was was. $30 cost me to get it TIG welded so its now permanently sealed. Ok that's my leak done and time to reassemble.
Remove both liquid and gas lines at the firewall under the bonnet, Tape up the ends of the hoses.
There are two mane parts to this. 1. the Evaporator box assembly and 2. the fan housing/air assembly. The can be removed as they are without dismantling them under the dash. To get at the mounting screws and nuts you will have to remove the Glove box first.
Glovebox -
Remove lid. Three hinge screws. One stopper screw holding the door stop catch arm.
Remove latch . two screws at the top of the glovebox.
Remove glove box enclosure. Two srcrews at the top and one light switch . Remove the whole switch by unthreading it from the body. then unplug the cable.
Remove the glove box compartment but be careful of the light holder at the back /side. Once out then unplug the light.
Blower assembly
Disconnect the blower motor.
There are three main fastening points holding the blower enclosure in place. Nut at the very top. 10mm bolt and the very bottom and another 10mm top left and back. This you will need a long socket with a swivel to undo.
There are several Philips screws holding the plastic blower assembly and evaporator box together. They will need to be removed.
To remove eth blower assembly you will first have to remove the main fastening bolts from the evaporator assembly. Two nuts at the very top, a bolt hidden in behind the sound system and another bolt at the very bottom. A few other screws holding the cowling to the air duct will need to be removed.
At this point the Evaporator assembly should be loose and able to be wriggled around. If so then great, if not the you have missed a screw, bolt or nut.
With the evaporator loose you can now pull it forward to allow the blower assembly to wriggle out. You may need to remove the cabin side wall in the foot well to give the assembly more room to move. Pull it sideways from the evaporator and it should drop down. hahaha with a bit of gentle persuasion. Once it has dropped a bit yo will need to disconnect the Air flapper operating cable that comes from the dash. Pop the inner of the lever and the outer from the clip. Pretty obvious once you see it.
Evaporator assembly
Wiring - There a a few wires to remove that connect the A/C amplifier in the front of the cowling. Tem cable, RPM sensor cable, power cable and the 9 pin plug then remove the amplifier from its housing along with the wire loom. That a photo if you aren't too confident with your memory recall.
With the Blower assembly out you should be able to lift the enclosure off the two studs at the top and provided all the screws have been removed, it should pull forward so that the two piles clear the firewall and slide sideways to where the blower once was. If you get this far you shoud be able to drop it down and wriggle it out.
Photos to come and hope they will help.. Once yo have done what you needed to do the reassemble both the evaporator and blower assemblies and revers the whole process. The whole removal and reassembly took about 3hrs PLUS stripping every thing down, fixing the gas leak, cleaning, de-rusting parts, painting and reassembly. This was done over a couple of days.
Hope this helps and good luck.
Remove both liquid and gas lines at the firewall under the bonnet, Tape up the ends of the hoses.
There are two mane parts to this. 1. the Evaporator box assembly and 2. the fan housing/air assembly. The can be removed as they are without dismantling them under the dash. To get at the mounting screws and nuts you will have to remove the Glove box first.
Glovebox -
Remove lid. Three hinge screws. One stopper screw holding the door stop catch arm.
Remove latch . two screws at the top of the glovebox.
Remove glove box enclosure. Two srcrews at the top and one light switch . Remove the whole switch by unthreading it from the body. then unplug the cable.
Remove the glove box compartment but be careful of the light holder at the back /side. Once out then unplug the light.
Blower assembly
Disconnect the blower motor.
There are three main fastening points holding the blower enclosure in place. Nut at the very top. 10mm bolt and the very bottom and another 10mm top left and back. This you will need a long socket with a swivel to undo.
There are several Philips screws holding the plastic blower assembly and evaporator box together. They will need to be removed.
To remove eth blower assembly you will first have to remove the main fastening bolts from the evaporator assembly. Two nuts at the very top, a bolt hidden in behind the sound system and another bolt at the very bottom. A few other screws holding the cowling to the air duct will need to be removed.
At this point the Evaporator assembly should be loose and able to be wriggled around. If so then great, if not the you have missed a screw, bolt or nut.
With the evaporator loose you can now pull it forward to allow the blower assembly to wriggle out. You may need to remove the cabin side wall in the foot well to give the assembly more room to move. Pull it sideways from the evaporator and it should drop down. hahaha with a bit of gentle persuasion. Once it has dropped a bit yo will need to disconnect the Air flapper operating cable that comes from the dash. Pop the inner of the lever and the outer from the clip. Pretty obvious once you see it.
Evaporator assembly
Wiring - There a a few wires to remove that connect the A/C amplifier in the front of the cowling. Tem cable, RPM sensor cable, power cable and the 9 pin plug then remove the amplifier from its housing along with the wire loom. That a photo if you aren't too confident with your memory recall.
With the Blower assembly out you should be able to lift the enclosure off the two studs at the top and provided all the screws have been removed, it should pull forward so that the two piles clear the firewall and slide sideways to where the blower once was. If you get this far you shoud be able to drop it down and wriggle it out.
Photos to come and hope they will help.. Once yo have done what you needed to do the reassemble both the evaporator and blower assemblies and revers the whole process. The whole removal and reassembly took about 3hrs PLUS stripping every thing down, fixing the gas leak, cleaning, de-rusting parts, painting and reassembly. This was done over a couple of days.
Hope this helps and good luck.
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- #6
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- #7
A few extra photos
@Richard Luksozek Not to hi-jack your thread, but my next project is to prep for r134a conversion and was wondering if a crack or opening in the evaporator case is critical? Debating if I need to patch or replace that first...
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- #9
No worries mate, all good. Damage tothe case isn't critical. If you take it out you can simply fibre glass inside and out but at least do the outside. It will just leak condensation water if you leave it as is. Cheers@Richard Luksozek Not to hi-jack your thread, but my next project is to prep for r134a conversion and was wondering if a crack or opening in the evaporator case is critical? Debating if I need to patch or replace that first...
JB weld putty almost matches the color if you don't want to pull it again. If you hadn't pulled it, you should. (Replace the pressure switch and orings and blow the crud out).@Richard Luksozek Not to hi-jack your thread, but my next project is to prep for r134a conversion and was wondering if a crack or opening in the evaporator case is critical? Debating if I need to patch or replace that first...
